Day 2 on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail takes you from the mountain village of Takahara to Chikatsuyu, covering about 10.1 km (6.5 miles). The route winds through dense forests along an undulating path, with climbs and descents that lead past several Oji shrines. The walk takes an estimated 4 hours and is roughly 6.5 miles (10.1 kilometers).
After a delightful breakfast at our accommodations, a local family-owned inn, called Hatago Masara, owned by a Japanese-French couple, Masa and Sara, we set off for our second day of hiking the Kumano Kodo. The morning was lovely with perfect temperatures and slight cloud cover keeping us relatively cool for this time of year (while the humidity was still at bay).
From Takahara, we passed through the outskirts of the village and continued on an undulating trail past several oji shrines along the way. Once again, we hardly saw anyone, and the trail was relatively quiet save for a few hikers. We had timed our trip right.
The Kumano is a sacred mountainous region located on the Kii Peninsula of Japan, stretching south of Osaka, Nara, and Kyoto, and home to the ancient spiritual Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage. There are several routes however, the most popular one is the Nakahechi Imperial Route that traverses the rugged mountainous trail winding through deep forests of cypress, pine, and camphor trees starting in Takahara and ending in Nachi at the Nachi Tasha Grand Shrine.
The pilgrimage began 1,000 years ago, taking the Imperial family and fellow pilgrims an average of 30-40 days from Kyoto. Several Oji shrines and teahouses were established along the way for pilgrims to rest, relax, and pray during this arduous trek. Today, the Nakahechi route can be completed in 5 days and covers over 46 miles (70 km) of mountainous terrain.
This past May, our family of four visited Japan for two weeks and the highlight of our trip was our time spent together doing the Kumado Kodo hike. Although the hike can be navigated and booked on your own, we opted to hire Oku Japan. Oku Japan operates guided, self-guided, and custom tours around Japan. Their trips combine the simple pleasures of enjoying the hospitality of close-knit communities deep in the countryside that preserve the traditions of a not-too-distant past. We picked them for their excellent reputation, their commitment to helping local rural communities, and their incredible attention to detail to every aspect of our trip, from start to finish. We were not disappointed.
Kyoto is often referred to as the cultural heart of Japan, and for good reason. Once the imperial capital for over a thousand years, the city blends timeless tradition with quiet elegance, offering a window into Japan’s past while still pulsing with modern life. Here, centuries-old wooden teahouses stand beside tranquil gardens, and the scent of incense drifts from ornate temples and shrines that have survived wars and earthquakes. Visitors come not only for Kyoto’s 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, but also for its living heritage, including seasonal festivals, exquisite kaiseki cuisine, and the artistry of geisha districts like Gion. Whether it’s the cherry blossoms of spring, the crimson maples of autumn, or the hushed snow of winter, Kyoto’s beauty is ever-changing—yet eternally unforgettable.
In 2024, Kyoto welcomed a record 10.88 million international visitors and 16.3 million overnight stays in total, marking one of its busiest years—second only to 2015. There are definitely challenges with overtourism as many sites are unbearably overcrowded. Yet if you time your visit right by going slightly off-season or get up early to arrive first at the most popular sites, you can find ways to avoid the massive crowds and still enjoy this glorious city.
This summer has been a summer of milestones. Our youngest daughter, Sophia, graduated from high school. It had been six months since my second hip surgery, and my husband and I celebrated our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary. To top it off, our twenty-year-old son was home from his second year of college, so with so much to celebrate, we did a fabulous two-week trip to Japan.
I had been to Japan decades ago when I was just 19 and wanted to see what had changed in this place that everyone seems to be talking about and visiting.
In fact, in the past year, travel to Japan has grown exponentially. In 2024, a record 36.9 million international visitors came to Japan, representing a 47.1% increase, according to the Japan Tourism Organization, and projections for 2025 are not slowing down. Japan continues to make the list of top countries to visit, and it is no surprise given the strong dollar-to-yen exchange rate, more direct flights from the US, and most of all, a country that has so incredibly much to offer its visitors. Add in the other benefits that Japan is a safe country, is incredibly easy to get around given its amazing network of trains, subways, and buses, and Japan was the ideal choice for our family vacation.
When I first went to Japan as a teenager decades ago, I hated the food. How wrong I was! Japanese cuisine is some of the most varied, delicious food I’ve ever experienced. Eating was half of the fun of this two-week family trip to Japan.
“Stand tall, but be sure to bend slightly at the knees,” yelled Max Williams, my Indigenous guide representing the Naso Comarca, as my travel companion Laura and I slowly started to travel down the Teribe River in Northeastern Panama. Slightly nervous, I smiled and waved. “Remember to use your feet for balance just like surfing when you enter the rough spots” he called out as our homemade bamboo raft picked up speed and headed faster downstream.
Laura and I were at the riverbank in the middle of the jungle, leaving behind the tiny Naso village of Sieykin, which is only reachable by water. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine I’d be traveling down a river while standing up on a homemade bamboo raft. But visiting the heart of the Naso Kingdom – an ancient community that has no roads and is centered around the river – meant we had no other way.
Adventure and Culture in the Heart of the Naso Comarca
As one of seven indigenous tribes in Panama – the smallest and one of the last monarchies in the Americas- the Naso have fought for their lives, their land, and their culture for hundreds of years, facing continual threats and persecution by other tribes, big business, and even their government. After decades of protest, in 2020, the Naso were finally granted the return of some of their ancestral land in the formation of their comarca (semi-autonomous Indigenous region), which includes the biodiverse La Amistad Biosphere Reserve (Central America’s largest intact rainforest). Yet, decades of little opportunity have meant this tiny tribe of only 3,500 remaining members is being forced to move away from the comarca, threatening what they value most, their cultural identity as a tribe.
Since 2020, the Tourism Authority of Panama and other international NGOs have been counting on community tourism as a way forward for indigenous communities throughout Panama and have funded the ambitious $301 million Master Plan for Sustainable Tourism. While the development of community tourism has been slow in the Naso Comarca, there is hope that the rehabilitation of an ancestral trail (that follows the river) will help increase tourism to this remote part of Panama. The community also became part of the Tourism Cares Meaningful Travel Map last June, bringing more awareness to tourism experiences. But it is the hope that once the trail is completed this spring, more visitors will come.
Spending a day with the Naso tribe in Sieykin was one of the highlights of my trip to Panama. The night before heading upriver to Sieykin, Laura and I stayed near the Posada Medialuna, a rustic community tourism initiative located in the Bonllik comarca, not far from Changuinola.
Visiting Sieykin: An Indigenous Village Only Reachable by Water
In the morning, we met our Naso guide, Max Williams for an hour motorboat ride up the Teribe River to reach the heart of the Naso kingdom, Sieykin where the king resides and a thriving Naso community continues to live as they have for generations.
As we rode upriver, Max shared a bit about the importance of nature, particularly the water for his people. “The basis of Naso life, both historically and today, is the Teribe River. Although called the Teribe by the Spanish, the original Naso name for the river is Tjër D. ‘Di’ means ‘water’ and ‘Tjer’ is the ‘Grand-Mother’, the giver of life and guiding spiritual force of the Naso ancestors.
Photo of Max leading us up the Teribe River
The History and Resilience of the Naso Tribe
The Naso Comarca hugs the vast forests of the Tjër Di river basin (including the Palo Seco Protective Forest and the La Amistad International Park) and extends to the border with Costa Rica. For centuries, the Naso have been the stewards of their land and have fought against its destruction from neighboring tribes, big business, and the government itself. It was not until they officially received their comarca five years ago that they finally became the legal protectors.
“We strongly forbid the illegal cutting down of our trees,” Max told us and “we unsuccessfully fought for decades against putting in the hydroelectric plant and dam on the river. At first, locals were happy to find jobs – albeit low-paying ones – at the hydroelectric company but when they finished the work and closed down the company, they were left once again with nothing”.
This is where community tourism can help. Slowly over the past 10 years, thanks to the entrepreneurship of the women in Bonyik who opened up Posada Mediluna and young guides like Max, tourism has begun creeping into their comarca. It has helped, but still, it is not enough.
Home of the Naso King who is democratically elected by the tribe.
We arrived at the bank of the entrance to Sieykin and still had a twenty-minute walk crossing through rivers and jungle until we reached the community. We saw women washing clothes and children playing in the river. As a Westerner, I was not accustomed to how hard it is to walk through the currents of a rushing river and felt a little bit embarrassed as I saw abuelas much older than me, lifting up the hem of their dress and effortlessly walking across.
One of many river crossings on the way to the community
We spent the afternoon at the home of Cristovalina and her family, learning about Naso culture through various activities such as traditional weaving to make baskets, handicrafts, and even the roofs of their homes, and also traditional chocolate making.
How Community Tourism Supports Indigenous Cultures in Panama
“The essence of tourism is that we share culture,” our guide Max’s mother told us the night before when we had dinner at their home. “We need help with tourism as a way to preserve our community and our land, to help us remain who we are and not lose our identity”.
Learning about how families come together and make chocolate was my favorite experience. Harvesting chocolate is a tradition passed on from generation to generation by the grandmother to her daughter and involves the entire family. It is also how their language and stories are passed on through hours of storytelling and singing by the fire.
I even captured this beautiful moment in this reel I created for Instagram of the chocolate-making tradition.
As we left Sieykin floating down the river on a homemade bamboo raft, I couldn’t help but wonder what the future holds for the Naso community. Will the opening of the much-anticipated Naso Trail bring the responsible tourism that they so desperately need to survive?
While the first phase covering 8 kilometers is now complete (reaching the communities of Bonyik and So Long), the remaining four kilometers should be ready for next season’s tourism season. I remember the words I heard the night before from our guide Max’s mother, a true warrior and champion of the Naso cause:
“For hundreds of years, we’ve fought for our land, our culture, and our traditions,” said Virginia Sososo. “Finally, we have the chance to share it with others through community tourism. It has allowed visitors to come here and learn about our culture and community and not take it away. To not extract things but to appreciate and respect our unique culture and land. When people stay for a night or two and spend time with us and talk to us, it creates an unforgettable experience and connects us. It brings us hope”.
After a beautiful morning whale-watching in the Chiriqui National Marine Park in Boca Chica, Panama it was time to hit the road and head to our next stop: Bonyic Naso Indigenous Community in the Bocas del Toro Province of Northwestern Panama.
As one of seven indigenous tribes in Panama – the smallest and one of the last monarchies in the Americas- the Naso have fought for their lives, their land, and their culture for hundreds of years, facing continual threats and persecution by other tribes, big business, and even their government. After decades of protest, in 2020, the Naso were finally granted the return of some of their ancestral land in the formation of their comarca (semi-autonomous Indigenous region), which includes the biodiverse La Amistad Biosphere Reserve (Central America’s largest intact rainforest). Yet, decades of little opportunity have meant this tiny tribe of only 3500 remaining members are being forced to move away from the comarca, threatening what they value most, their cultural identity as a tribe.
Riding a traditional bamboo raft down the Teribe River is one of many fun experiences offered by the Naso tribe’s community tourism initatives
I spent two days visiting three of the eleven communities of the tribe and it was one of the most meaningful experiences I had in two weeks in Panama. One of the most special parts of my trip happened the very first night. Here is the story.
The Chiriqui National Marine Park covers 14,740 hectares of islands and sea off Panama’s western Pacific coast and is home to over 20 stunning islands many uninhabited. The best way to reach the park is from Boca Chica which is roughly a 50 minutes drive from David, the capital of Chiriqui Province. A visit to the Chiriqui National Marine Park is a must-do for those seeking beauty, wildlife and adventure, and I was grateful to visit this extraordinary place last October during my two-week trip to Panama.
I arrived at the lovely boutique Hotel Bocas del Mar after a long adventurous day visiting the Soloy Indigenous Community in the highlands of Chiriqui province. The sun was already dipping below the horizon but it was evident how extraordinarily beautiful the setting was. Located 2 kilometers from Boca Chica, the hotel is the perfect getaway for nature-lovers and those seeking tranquility. Perched high above the ocean, the resort overlooks the start of Chiriqui National Marine Park and is the perfect launching off point for exploring the park.
Sunset over Hotel Bocas del Mar, Boca Chica, Panama
In the highlands of western Panama, spanning over 2,500 square miles (6,475 kilometers), lies the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca, the largest and most populous of Panama’s seven indigenous groups. Established in 1997, the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca (partially autonomous regions established in areas where its indigenous people have traditionally lived) was created to grant the Ngäbe-Buglé people autonomy over lands formally in the provinces of Bocas del Toro, Chiriquí, and Veraguas.
The Ngäbe-Buglé people are a vital part of the country’s cultural heritage, playing a key role in coffee production, agriculture, artisan crafts, and the safeguarding of ancient spiritual traditions and ecological wisdom. Despite the challenges posed by climate change, modernization, and limited opportunities in their communities, the Ngäbe-Buglé people are finding ways to navigate the modern world while preserving their unique culture.
One way they are preserving their culture and providing opportunity within their community is through community tourism. After the pandemic, the government along with the help of other nonprofit groups continued to support these grassroots efforts with the launch the Panama Alliance for Community Tourism (PACTO).
On my first day in Panama I got to explore the rich culture of the Ngäbe-Buglé people by joining one of the many tours offered by the community, where we witnessed firsthand the traditions and way of life of the Ngäbe-Buglé people.
After a lovely morning exploring the beauty and charm of Bhaktapur, our group headed a short distance away to Nagarkot, a beautiful village nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas roughly 28 kilometers east of Kathmandu. Nagarkot is a popular tourist destination for its majestic Himalayan views, and rich culture and village life. We would spend two days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay as part of our trip with the Community Homestay Network in Nepal.
The Nagarkot Community Homestay located in Bastola gaun (village) began roughly 13 years ago when Suraj Bastola, one of six brothers, hatched the idea of offering tourists a unique experience to stay as guests in their homes.
After surviving the 2015 earthquake that destroyed their village, the community united and persevered, rebuilding one home at a time and slowly reopening their homestay program to tourists. Today, the community welcomes roughly 600 visitors to their village each year, significantly impacting the families’ economic, cultural, and social well-being. Now, many of the children study abroad at university thanks to the additional earnings from the homestays. Women have also seen their children’s health improve and their cultural traditions thrive.
When we arrived, our group of ten journalists and travel advisors were welcomed by the host mamas dressed in the traditional dress of red saris. One by one, we each received a marigold garland and a red dot (tika) on our forehead. After a brief welcoming ceremony, we split into pairs and were introduced to our host mamas. I was rooming with Sara, a delightful woman from the UK who is a travel advisor, and we were staying with Laxmi Bastola and her family.
Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, lies the spectacular mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Known for its sensational beauty, high-mountain charm, and easy access to hundreds of fabulous hiking trails, it is no surprise that we chose Cortina as our last stop on our family hiking trip this past July.
I discovered the lure of Cortina last year when I went on a hiking trip with my Dad in early May just three months after a total hip replacement. Unfortunately, the timing was all wrong. There was still thick, fluffy snow coating the high mountain trails, almost the entire town had shut down after ski season and would not reopen until June, and my physical recovery and stamina from a full-blown surgery made hiking anything longer than three hours impossible. But I went on the trip, and I fell in love with the place, promising I’d come back again with my family.
Fast forward fourteen months later, I was back with a new lease on my athletic life and my desire to explore the high alpine, challenging trails that I could only dream of the year before. Over the week, we did plenty of awe-inspiring hikes with our favorite to date being the glorious hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi (near Alleghe) and the stunning loop hike around the Sassolungo near Val di Gardena Selva. Each hike was magical, special, and unique.
We had thought we had gotten all of the long, challenging hikes out of our system until we decided to do the Circuit hike around the Croda da Lago. Rated a moderate-hard hike, this 12.5 km/7.7 mile was a beast of a hike given the field of boulders and endless scree. Yet the wild, rough, and dramatic scenery was worth every effort and sore knees. If you are an avid, experienced hiker, then this hike is for you. Continue reading →
The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our fourth hike of the trip – a hike around the Sassolungo Loop near Val di Gardena Selva.
After three delightful days in Alleghe, we traveled an hour and fifteen minutes northeast to Selva di Val Gardena, a beautiful resort town at the foot of the Dolomites where we stayed two nights. It was much different than tiny Alleghe where there were few tourists. Instead, Selva di Val Gardena was bustling with tourists and its wide streets were lined with fancy, upscale restaurants and shops. The hiking trails around it were also quite crowded. But, we all agreed that it was nice to mix it up.
The drive from Alleghe to Selva di Val Gardena was stunning yet the many hairpin turns made my stomach and head hurt as I am quite prone to motion sickness. It is worth a stop at the top of Sela Pass for incredible views of the surrounding Dolomites. We arrived in town just in time for dinner and rest before another big hike the following morning.
The most popular hike in the area is the Sassolungo Group Loop, a 10.2-mile (16.4 km) loop trail that leads around the Sassolungo and the Sassopiatto rock formations. It is considered a challenging hike and takes roughly 6 hours depending on stops.
We began our hike at the Passo Sella, where we left our car at the car park and headed up into the low-laying clouds and fog blanketing the Sassopiatto. We climbed up the gravel road, hoping it was not going to rain, and set off clockwise towards the first of four rifguios.
The trail was extremely muddy after all of the June rain, and we were all relieved to have on good hiking boots and a pair of walking sticks. The mud made the first hour of the hike a bit more challenging but it also seemed to slow down and ward off the crowds.
The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our third hike of the trip when we were based in Alleghe. The hike to Rifugio Sasso Bianco.
Our last hike in Alleghe was the awe-inspiring hike from the western side of Lago di Alleghe to the Rifugio Sasso Bianco. This hike was on the other side of Alleghe and afforded spellbinding views of the town, its namesake lake, and the flank of Mount Civetta. The hike was recommended by the helpful man working at the Alleghe Tourist Office in town, who sizing us up, recommended three hikes.
The first two hikes (one that is circular and passes by two dairy farms and the other to Lake Coldai and Tissi Rifugio) are both located at the top of the gondola at the Col dei Baldi and are quite popular and well-traveled. However, the last hike he recommended was not well known. It turned out to be one of those local treasures. It was not crowded (we saw under a dozen people in five hours), led us through two tiny hamlets, and prized us with stunning views of the town, the lake, and the mighty Mount Civetta across the way. We were rewarded with a delicious hot lunch at the family-run Rifigio Blanco Sasso, a beautiful hut reachable only by foot.
On a clear day, the views at the foot of the Rifugio are known as some of the best in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it was rather cloudy that day. Yet we all still adored this adventurous hike, and I highly recommend it for the lack of crowds, beauty, and beautiful views of the area.
As you climb up, the views of Alleghe and its glorious lake are mystical.
