The last day of our hike along the Kumano Kodo was from the remote village of Koguchi to Nachi Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and the most stunning. It ended up being a grueling hike, taking 6 long hours with the first two hours being straight uphill. (Total hike: 9.2 miles/14.8 kilometers).
The hike ended with a bang and was much harder than I anticipated.
For some reason, this was harder than the 8.5-hour hike two days before. The weather was becoming a bit more humid (thank goodness it was only early June), and the incline up was much more difficult than it looked.
While I struggled through the tough, humid uphill grind (periodically wiping the sweat dripping off my face with my shirt), wy kids and husband whisked by me, not one bit bothered. I confess I was a bit grumpy, but decided to give myself some grace. I was 53 years old and had just had not one but two major surgeries in the past two years. My last surgery – my second hip replacement – was only six months ago, and I was still not back up to my prior fitness levels before. Continue reading →
The fourth day hiking the Kumano Kodo trail was a recovery day and only 13.2 km/8.2 miles. Our legs were sore but our souls were refreshed after a night at the Yunomine Onsen, where we dipped in the calming hot waters of the hotel’s onsen and enjoyed a traditional 12-course Japanese meal.
The hike today involved a short bus ride to the Kogumotori-goe section of the trail, where we had perhaps one of the best views of the velvety green forested mountains. The look out area is called Hyakken-gura looks out onto the “Kumano Sanzen Roppyaku-ho” – a local expression which literally translates as the “3,600 peaks of Kumano” per our guidebook.
A small Jizo statue guards a stunning backdrop of the Kumano mountains
Since much of the hike is through thick forests, we did not have many views of the mountains except on this day. The word “gura” means “high cliff,” and from the Hyakken-gura we could see velvet green-covered peaks as far as the eye could see. It certainly was magical. Continue reading →
Day three of the Kumano Kodo trail – from Chikatsuyo to Hongu Grand Shrine – was by far the hardest day of all in terms of distance. For this section of the trail, there are three options: Easy, moderate at 6-7 hours, and strenuous at 8.5 hours (24 km/14.9 miles). Of course, we all chose the hardest option! It was a long day, but worth it.
We began our hike, leaving our inn at 7 am, hiking through villages along the side of the road. This was actually fun as we met lots of the locals and had some fun conversations, such as learning how to say a few Japanese words like Ohayou gozaimasu which means good morning.
The outskirts of the village were lovely with lots of flowers and beautiful views of the velvet, green-covered mountains. It all felt so peaceful, too, with no noise pollution or crowds. A rarity in today’s modern world.
The hike climbed steadily through the outlying community and countryside until we reached the forest again. It was day three and I was still amazed by the size and majestic beauty of the trees that towered over our heads like a cathedral. We hiked to the melodic birdsong yet never saw the birds because they were too high up in the canopy of cypress, camphor and pine trees.
There were lots of marvelous ancient oji shrines along the way for us to stop at. While the hike was long, it was rewarding and only a few fellow hikers were taking the long route.
By the time we reached the incredible Hongu Grand Shrine, we were so exhausted that we only grabbed a few photos. Nevertheless, it was stunning and got us even more excited for the rest of the journey.
The Hongu Grand Shrine, or Kumano Hongu Taisha, holds a deep historical and spiritual significance as one of Japan’s most sacred Shinto sites and is a central destination on the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Located in Wakayama Prefecture, the shrine dates back over a thousand years and was once the head shrine of more than 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan.
For centuries, emperors, aristocrats, and commoners alike made the arduous journey through the Kii Mountains to worship here, seeking spiritual rebirth and purification. Originally situated at Oyunohara—the confluence of the Kumano, Otonashi, and Iwata Rivers—the shrine was relocated to its current site in the late 19th century after a devastating flood. Today, it stands as a powerful symbol of Japan’s enduring traditions of nature reverence, pilgrimage, and spiritual renewal, linking the past and present through its timeless rituals and sacred atmosphere.
As we left the shrine, it was late afternoon and we still had to catch a local bus to reach our accommodation for the night. We were staying at our first onsen, natural hot springs that are an integral part of Japanese culture. The onsen experience is unique as you bathe with a bunch of same gender strangers completely in the buff. Apparently, onsens are valued not only for their soothing warmth and mineral-rich waters but also for their role in promoting relaxation, purification, and social connection. For centuries, people have visited onsens to heal both body and spirit, believing that the geothermal waters possess restorative powers.
I must confess that I chickened out and only tested the single-person onsen. But it was indeed amazingly lovely and soothing. I can see why the onsen is a beloved centuries-old tradition of Japanese culture.
We spent the next two nights at the Yunomine Onsen, which is one of the most historic hot springs in Japan. Nestled in the mountains of the Wakayama Prefecture, it is located in one of Japan’s oldest and most historic hot spring villages, with a history stretching back over a thousand years. Deeply intertwined with the sacred Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, it is said that pilgrims once bathed here to purify their bodies before worshiping at the nearby Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Our dinner at Yunomine Onsen was an experience in itself. We were served a traditional multi-course (I counted at least 14 courses each!) showcasing beautifully presented, locally sourced ingredients. Some of the regional specialties included grilled river fish, mountain vegetables, tofu, seasonal pickles, lots of sushi and miso soup.
Since Yunomine is a hot spring village, a unique culinary tradition is onsen tamago—eggs gently boiled in the natural hot spring waters, resulting in a delicate, silky texture. Rice, fresh sashimi, and small plates of simmered or tempura vegetables rounded out the meal, all served with meticulous attention to detail. Together, these dishes offer visitors a taste of Japan’s deep connection between food, place, and nature, mirroring the onsen’s tranquil and spiritual atmosphere.
After such an epic day with a long hike, soaking in the onsen, and indulging in an enormous dinner, we were looking forward to the rest of the journey along the Kumano Kodo trail. The hike got even better as the trip went on.
Check out this reel of the adventurous day on Instagram.
Day 2 on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail takes you from the mountain village of Takahara to Chikatsuyu, covering about 10.1 km (6.5 miles). The route winds through dense forests along an undulating path, with climbs and descents that lead past several Oji shrines. The walk takes an estimated 4 hours and is roughly 6.5 miles (10.1 kilometers).
After a delightful breakfast at our accommodations, a local family-owned inn, called Hatago Masara, owned by a Japanese-French couple, Masa and Sara, we set off for our second day of hiking the Kumano Kodo. The morning was lovely with perfect temperatures and slight cloud cover keeping us relatively cool for this time of year (while the humidity was still at bay).
From Takahara, we passed through the outskirts of the village and continued on an undulating trail past several oji shrines along the way. Once again, we hardly saw anyone, and the trail was relatively quiet save for a few hikers. We had timed our trip right.
The Kumano is a sacred mountainous region located on the Kii Peninsula of Japan, stretching south of Osaka, Nara, and Kyoto, and home to the ancient spiritual Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage. There are several routes however, the most popular one is the Nakahechi Imperial Route that traverses the rugged mountainous trail winding through deep forests of cypress, pine, and camphor trees starting in Takahara and ending in Nachi at the Nachi Tasha Grand Shrine.
The pilgrimage began 1,000 years ago, taking the Imperial family and fellow pilgrims an average of 30-40 days from Kyoto. Several Oji shrines and teahouses were established along the way for pilgrims to rest, relax, and pray during this arduous trek. Today, the Nakahechi route can be completed in 5 days and covers over 46 miles (70 km) of mountainous terrain.
This past May, our family of four visited Japan for two weeks and the highlight of our trip was our time spent together doing the Kumado Kodo hike. Although the hike can be navigated and booked on your own, we opted to hire Oku Japan. Oku Japan operates guided, self-guided, and custom tours around Japan. Their trips combine the simple pleasures of enjoying the hospitality of close-knit communities deep in the countryside that preserve the traditions of a not-too-distant past. We picked them for their excellent reputation, their commitment to helping local rural communities, and their incredible attention to detail to every aspect of our trip, from start to finish. We were not disappointed.
Kyoto is often referred to as the cultural heart of Japan, and for good reason. Once the imperial capital for over a thousand years, the city blends timeless tradition with quiet elegance, offering a window into Japan’s past while still pulsing with modern life. Here, centuries-old wooden teahouses stand beside tranquil gardens, and the scent of incense drifts from ornate temples and shrines that have survived wars and earthquakes. Visitors come not only for Kyoto’s 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, but also for its living heritage, including seasonal festivals, exquisite kaiseki cuisine, and the artistry of geisha districts like Gion. Whether it’s the cherry blossoms of spring, the crimson maples of autumn, or the hushed snow of winter, Kyoto’s beauty is ever-changing—yet eternally unforgettable.
In 2024, Kyoto welcomed a record 10.88 million international visitors and 16.3 million overnight stays in total, marking one of its busiest years—second only to 2015. There are definitely challenges with overtourism as many sites are unbearably overcrowded. Yet if you time your visit right by going slightly off-season or get up early to arrive first at the most popular sites, you can find ways to avoid the massive crowds and still enjoy this glorious city.
This summer has been a summer of milestones. Our youngest daughter, Sophia, graduated from high school. It had been six months since my second hip surgery, and my husband and I celebrated our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary. To top it off, our twenty-year-old son was home from his second year of college, so with so much to celebrate, we did a fabulous two-week trip to Japan.
I had been to Japan decades ago when I was just 19 and wanted to see what had changed in this place that everyone seems to be talking about and visiting.
In fact, in the past year, travel to Japan has grown exponentially. In 2024, a record 36.9 million international visitors came to Japan, representing a 47.1% increase, according to the Japan Tourism Organization, and projections for 2025 are not slowing down. Japan continues to make the list of top countries to visit, and it is no surprise given the strong dollar-to-yen exchange rate, more direct flights from the US, and most of all, a country that has so incredibly much to offer its visitors. Add in the other benefits that Japan is a safe country, is incredibly easy to get around given its amazing network of trains, subways, and buses, and Japan was the ideal choice for our family vacation.
When I first went to Japan as a teenager decades ago, I hated the food. How wrong I was! Japanese cuisine is some of the most varied, delicious food I’ve ever experienced. Eating was half of the fun of this two-week family trip to Japan.
