Ancestral Paths to Mountain Biking Trails in Icalma, Chile

A small dedicated group of local people in the remote Aracauria region of Chile has turned ancient ancestral paths into sustainable tourism through mountain biking as a way to keep their indigenous traditions and culture alive. Here is their story. Note: This article was written by me for the Chile Tourism Board and was published on GLP Films

Beneath a towering canopy of ancient Araucanía trees, Victor Abarzua and Aldo Torres snap on their helmets and mount their bikes. As they glide down the age-old trail, sunlight filters through the forest, casting their silhouettes in a golden ray of light. Every twist and turn of the ride feels like magic. For this forest is not just a path to be ridden; it’s a living history, its roots entwined with the stories of the Mapuche people and the sacred wisdom of the past. As their tires carve into the earth, a plume of dust rises like smoke, drifting toward the treetops. Adrenaline surges through them, but so does a deep sense of reverence. Here, mountain biking becomes more than a sport—it’s a ritual, a celebration that bridges past and future, and builds connection between man and nature.

For the past ten years, Victor has been working with the local Indigenous Mapuche community to transform Icalma, a relatively remote and unknown region of Chile, into a sustainable tourism destination offering Mountain biking as the primary tool. It has not been an easy journey as Victor came to Icalma—a community that is 99% Indigenous—as an outsider and had to take time to develop relationships and, more importantly, to build trust. For Icalma is not just any place; it is a sacred place, one that is worth protecting, adding an extra layer of complexity to sustainably and responsibly developing tourism in this part of Chile.

Mountain biking in Icalma Chile

Photo by Hass Salum/GLP Films

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Hiking the Kumano Kodo: The last leg to the Nachi Grand Shrine

The last day of our hike along the Kumano Kodo was from the remote village of Koguchi to Nachi Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and the most stunning. It ended up being a grueling hike, taking 6 long hours with the first two hours being straight uphill. (Total hike: 9.2 miles/14.8 kilometers).

The hike ended with a bang and was much harder than I anticipated.

For some reason, this was harder than the 8.5-hour hike two days before. The weather was becoming a bit more humid (thank goodness it was only early June), and the incline up was much more difficult than it looked.

While I struggled through the tough, humid uphill grind  (periodically wiping the sweat dripping off my face with my shirt),  wy kids and husband whisked by me, not one bit bothered. I confess I was a bit grumpy, but decided to give myself some grace. I was 53 years old and had just had not one but two major surgeries in the past two years. My last surgery – my second hip replacement –  was only six months ago, and I was still not back up to my prior fitness levels before. Continue reading

Hiking the Kumano Kodo: Ukegawa to Koguchi

The fourth day hiking the Kumano Kodo trail was a recovery day and only 13.2 km/8.2 miles. Our legs were sore but our souls were refreshed after a night at the Yunomine Onsen, where we dipped in the calming hot waters of the hotel’s onsen and enjoyed a traditional 12-course Japanese meal.

The hike today involved a short bus ride to the Kogumotori-goe section of the trail, where we had perhaps one of the best views of the velvety green forested mountains. The look out area is called Hyakken-gura looks out onto the “Kumano Sanzen Roppyaku-ho” – a local expression which literally translates as the “3,600 peaks of Kumano” per our guidebook.

A small Jizo statue guards a stunning backdrop of the Kumano mountains

Since much of the hike is through thick forests, we did not have many views of the mountains except on this day. The word “gura” means “high cliff,” and from the Hyakken-gura we could see velvet green-covered peaks as far as the eye could see. It certainly was magical. Continue reading