Back in August, my daughter and I went on an incredible adventure together in Peru, completing the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. Peru had been a place we were planning to visit in 2020 before the pandemic canceled our plans. We were finally able to do the trip together a month before she left home for college, and for me, after recovering from my second hip replacement surgery and becoming an empty nester. It was spectacular.
Morning sun looking out from the Salkantay Lodge
The last day of our hike along the Kumano Kodo was from the remote village of Koguchi to Nachi Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and the most stunning. It ended up being a grueling hike, taking 6 long hours with the first two hours being straight uphill. (Total hike: 9.2 miles/14.8 kilometers).
The hike ended with a bang and was much harder than I anticipated.
For some reason, this was harder than the 8.5-hour hike two days before. The weather was becoming a bit more humid (thank goodness it was only early June), and the incline up was much more difficult than it looked.
While I struggled through the tough, humid uphill grind (periodically wiping the sweat dripping off my face with my shirt), wy kids and husband whisked by me, not one bit bothered. I confess I was a bit grumpy, but decided to give myself some grace. I was 53 years old and had just had not one but two major surgeries in the past two years. My last surgery – my second hip replacement – was only six months ago, and I was still not back up to my prior fitness levels before. Continue reading
Day 2 on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail takes you from the mountain village of Takahara to Chikatsuyu, covering about 10.1 km (6.5 miles). The route winds through dense forests along an undulating path, with climbs and descents that lead past several Oji shrines. The walk takes an estimated 4 hours and is roughly 6.5 miles (10.1 kilometers).
After a delightful breakfast at our accommodations, a local family-owned inn, called Hatago Masara, owned by a Japanese-French couple, Masa and Sara, we set off for our second day of hiking the Kumano Kodo. The morning was lovely with perfect temperatures and slight cloud cover keeping us relatively cool for this time of year (while the humidity was still at bay).
From Takahara, we passed through the outskirts of the village and continued on an undulating trail past several oji shrines along the way. Once again, we hardly saw anyone, and the trail was relatively quiet save for a few hikers. We had timed our trip right.
This summer has been a summer of milestones. Our youngest daughter, Sophia, graduated from high school. It had been six months since my second hip surgery, and my husband and I celebrated our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary. To top it off, our twenty-year-old son was home from his second year of college, so with so much to celebrate, we did a fabulous two-week trip to Japan.
I had been to Japan decades ago when I was just 19 and wanted to see what had changed in this place that everyone seems to be talking about and visiting.
In fact, in the past year, travel to Japan has grown exponentially. In 2024, a record 36.9 million international visitors came to Japan, representing a 47.1% increase, according to the Japan Tourism Organization, and projections for 2025 are not slowing down. Japan continues to make the list of top countries to visit, and it is no surprise given the strong dollar-to-yen exchange rate, more direct flights from the US, and most of all, a country that has so incredibly much to offer its visitors. Add in the other benefits that Japan is a safe country, is incredibly easy to get around given its amazing network of trains, subways, and buses, and Japan was the ideal choice for our family vacation.
When I first went to Japan as a teenager decades ago, I hated the food. How wrong I was! Japanese cuisine is some of the most varied, delicious food I’ve ever experienced. Eating was half of the fun of this two-week family trip to Japan.
Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, lies the spectacular mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Known for its sensational beauty, high-mountain charm, and easy access to hundreds of fabulous hiking trails, it is no surprise that we chose Cortina as our last stop on our family hiking trip this past July.
I discovered the lure of Cortina last year when I went on a hiking trip with my Dad in early May just three months after a total hip replacement. Unfortunately, the timing was all wrong. There was still thick, fluffy snow coating the high mountain trails, almost the entire town had shut down after ski season and would not reopen until June, and my physical recovery and stamina from a full-blown surgery made hiking anything longer than three hours impossible. But I went on the trip, and I fell in love with the place, promising I’d come back again with my family.
Fast forward fourteen months later, I was back with a new lease on my athletic life and my desire to explore the high alpine, challenging trails that I could only dream of the year before. Over the week, we did plenty of awe-inspiring hikes with our favorite to date being the glorious hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi (near Alleghe) and the stunning loop hike around the Sassolungo near Val di Gardena Selva. Each hike was magical, special, and unique.
We had thought we had gotten all of the long, challenging hikes out of our system until we decided to do the Circuit hike around the Croda da Lago. Rated a moderate-hard hike, this 12.5 km/7.7 mile was a beast of a hike given the field of boulders and endless scree. Yet the wild, rough, and dramatic scenery was worth every effort and sore knees. If you are an avid, experienced hiker, then this hike is for you. Continue reading
The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our fourth hike of the trip – a hike around the Sassolungo Loop near Val di Gardena Selva.
After three delightful days in Alleghe, we traveled an hour and fifteen minutes northeast to Selva di Val Gardena, a beautiful resort town at the foot of the Dolomites where we stayed two nights. It was much different than tiny Alleghe where there were few tourists. Instead, Selva di Val Gardena was bustling with tourists and its wide streets were lined with fancy, upscale restaurants and shops. The hiking trails around it were also quite crowded. But, we all agreed that it was nice to mix it up.
The drive from Alleghe to Selva di Val Gardena was stunning yet the many hairpin turns made my stomach and head hurt as I am quite prone to motion sickness. It is worth a stop at the top of Sela Pass for incredible views of the surrounding Dolomites. We arrived in town just in time for dinner and rest before another big hike the following morning.
The most popular hike in the area is the Sassolungo Group Loop, a 10.2-mile (16.4 km) loop trail that leads around the Sassolungo and the Sassopiatto rock formations. It is considered a challenging hike and takes roughly 6 hours depending on stops.
We began our hike at the Passo Sella, where we left our car at the car park and headed up into the low-laying clouds and fog blanketing the Sassopiatto. We climbed up the gravel road, hoping it was not going to rain, and set off clockwise towards the first of four rifguios.
The trail was extremely muddy after all of the June rain, and we were all relieved to have on good hiking boots and a pair of walking sticks. The mud made the first hour of the hike a bit more challenging but it also seemed to slow down and ward off the crowds.
Setting off on the Sassolungo trail
The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our third hike of the trip when we were based in Alleghe. The hike to Rifugio Sasso Bianco.
Our last hike in Alleghe was the awe-inspiring hike from the western side of Lago di Alleghe to the Rifugio Sasso Bianco. This hike was on the other side of Alleghe and afforded spellbinding views of the town, its namesake lake, and the flank of Mount Civetta. The hike was recommended by the helpful man working at the Alleghe Tourist Office in town, who sizing us up, recommended three hikes.
The first two hikes (one that is circular and passes by two dairy farms and the other to Lake Coldai and Tissi Rifugio) are both located at the top of the gondola at the Col dei Baldi and are quite popular and well-traveled. However, the last hike he recommended was not well known. It turned out to be one of those local treasures. It was not crowded (we saw under a dozen people in five hours), led us through two tiny hamlets, and prized us with stunning views of the town, the lake, and the mighty Mount Civetta across the way. We were rewarded with a delicious hot lunch at the family-run Rifigio Blanco Sasso, a beautiful hut reachable only by foot.
On a clear day, the views at the foot of the Rifugio are known as some of the best in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it was rather cloudy that day. Yet we all still adored this adventurous hike, and I highly recommend it for the lack of crowds, beauty, and beautiful views of the area.
As you climb up, the views of Alleghe and its glorious lake are mystical.
One of the best day hikes in the Dolomites is by far the hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi. The 6 hour roundtrip hike starts from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi. If you have one tough hike in you, this is the one to do.
“I wish we could stay here forever” said my seventeen-year-old daughter as she stood overlooking a view seemingly out of a fairytale.
It was our second day hiking in the Dolomites, and we were on one of the most awe-inspiring hikes of our lives. A hike from high above the Italian village of Alleghe passing under the extraordinary towering face of the mighty Civetta.
Just three weeks ago, I was in urgent care with my daughter who had sprained her ankle while doing tricks on her new skateboard right before a big hiking trip. I could hardly believe that we were here, in the Dolomites preparing to do a fairly challenging hike. “But younger bodies heal so much faster” her doctor said during a check up examination before the trip. And he was right.
We began our hike from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi where we rewarded ourselves with homemade gnocchi before returning to Alleghe. On a clear day, the hike gifts some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dolomites and provides enough challenge to make it an incredibly rewarding, memorable experience. If you have one hard hike in you, this is the one you should do.
My daughter unfazed by her sprained ankle, marveling up at the Civetta.
I had grown up hiking with my own parents and it was my hope that my teenagers would also grow to love it as much as me. While we started with short hikes when the kids were younger it took some time for them to both fully embrace it and go without complaints. Last summer, we did our first real hiking trip to Alaska as a family and it was a big success.
After proving that she could definitely out hike me during our trip last summer to Alaska, my daughter was on board for a hiking trip to Italy and especially was up for the challenge on day two with a longer hike. My son had already discovered his love for hiking a few years earlier after experiencing hiking with me and my father around Mont Blanc. So it was decided that we would do a big hike on our second day in the Dolomites.
We set off early in the morning catching the first gondola up to the top of Col dei Baldi. We learned from our hike the day before, that you can either take the gondola up two stops from Alleghe or drive to Pian di Pezzè, park and take the gondola up to Col dei Baldi. It was cheaper for our family to do it the latter way.
After exiting the gondola, you follow a wide gravel path straight until you reach an old abandoned stone building and see a path (path 556) to the right that zigzags up the side of the mountain en route to the first Rifugio Sonino al Coldai. Many choose to do a shorter hike to the stunning Coldai Lake, a high alpine glacial lake. The roundtrip hike from Col dei Baldi to Coldai Lake and back takes roughly 3 hours and 15 minutes and is rated moderate. However, I highly recommend continuing to Rifugio Tissi for the out-of-this-world views of the Civetta’s northwestern flank. The hike there and back takes roughly 6-7 hours depending on pace and without stops (we did several along the way and enjoyed lunch at the Rifugio Tissi). It ranks as one of the best hikes I’ve done in years and is a must on a clear day.
Hiking Glacier Lake Trail in the stunning Kachemak Bay State Park in Homer, Alaska is not for the faint at heart. While the hike itself is easy and the views are serendipitously surreal, remember that you are in the wild. Be prepared for seeing a lot of fresh bear poops. (We counted 12 !). The remoteness of the park. and getting there is half of the adventure, making this day hike one of the best in the area.
We rose a little past seven at our glorious Airbnb rental in Homer, Alaska with a disappointing layer of fog blanketing Kachemak Bay. Just the night before, we had clear skies and watched the late evening sun cast a magical spell of pinks, purples, and blues on the snowcapped peaks across the bay. We desperately hoped that the clouds would lift as the day went by yet knew that weather in this part of the world was always a gamble.
We gathered our rain gear and backpacks for the day and made sure to toss in a can of bear spray borrowed from our gracious Airbnb host who never leaves home without it. We had been in Alaska for three days and had yet to see a bear, however, had heard many stories already about recent bear sightings and encounters along the trails. The last thing I wanted to do was run into a mother bear with cubs and be empty-handed. Continue reading
Located only 15 miles outside of Anchorage in the Chugach State Park lies Alaska’s most quintessential day hike, the three-mile roundtrip hike from Glen Lake Trailhead to Flattop Mountain. Known as the most climbed mountain in Alaska, Flattop Mountain offers a little something special for all: A close connection with nature, an unexpected wildlife sighting, fantastic views, and a great workout from this relatively steep and somewhat challenging hike.
This past August, we took a ten-day family trip to one of the United States’ most northwestern states, Alaska. Despite my love of mountainous terrain, I had never been to Alaska and was extremely excited to visit the wild, rugged, raw wilderness of this remote state. It did not disappoint. Alaska lives up to its reputation of harboring some of the US’ most pristine, untouched nature, and plenty of opportunities to explore it.
Flying to Anchorage from Minneapolis brought us over the vast plains of the northern United States, into Canada across the Canadian Rockies, Alberta, British Columbia, and finally into the upper reaches of Alaska, tucked away in the northwestern corner of North America. The thrilling views over the last hour of our five-hour flight inspired me to plan out our first hike of the trip. A short two-hour roundtrip hike to the top of Anchorage’s famed Flattop Mountain.
The best thing about Anchorage is how easy it is to quickly get out of the city and into the wilderness. With the breathtaking Chugach State Park less than a half hour away, there are countless opportunities to get outside in nature and see wildlife.
One of the most popular day hikes in Alaska to the summit of Flattop Mountain is only a 15-minute drive away. With its stunning 360 views of the Cook Inlet and Anchorage Bowl, this steep and challenging hike is a must-do for any visitors to Anchorage.
The end of the hike to the summit is rather hairy with lots of loose rock but the views are worth the effort
From hiking along the ancient lava flows at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park to night snorkeling with manta rays and stargazing at Mauna Kea, the island of Hawai’i is filled with endless adventure for the entire family. Here is my curated list of the top ten unforgettable Family Experiences on the island of Hawai’i
The island of Hawai’i – the largest inhabited island of the Hawaiian archipelago – has it all. Nowhere else on earth can you find so much ecological diversity jam-packed into one place. Pristine rain forests, lava deserts, world-class beaches, snow-covered peaks, an active volcano, stunning sunsets, and just about every adventure you can imagine.
Given the island of Hawai’i’s unique geography (there are all but four of the world’s subclimate zones on the island of Hawai’i), there is much more to do than simply lay on the beach. Here are my top ten ideas for the best way to explore this amazing place, ideas that the entire family will enjoy. I have also included information on how to visit Hawai’i sustainably while respecting the native culture, history, and land.
Author’s note: All these opinions are based on my own experiences and perspectives. The article is about how I personally experienced Hawai’i through my eyes as an American woman and tourist visiting the island of Hawai’i.
Photo courtesy of Hawaii Tourist Authority
Nestled at the bottom of the rugged Fjarðarheiði mountain pass at the end of a long, narrow fjord in Eastern Iceland is the magical coastal town of Seyðisfjörður. Given its remote location (it is about a two and a half hour drive east from Mývatn and another 3 hours to the more popular town of Höfn), and its unique surroundings, we were in for a real treat. It was our sixth day in Iceland following our Ring Road family trip adventure, and we had just spent two fantastic days in Mývatn and Krafla exploring its volcanic wonders. Now it was time to enter into a fairytale world of endless waterfalls, lush green mountains and blue sea as far as the eye could see.
We arrived in the late afternoon, down a long, serpentine, gravel road, pulling out of the clouds and into lush green valley and fjord that surrounds the village. It wasn’t hard to find our hotel or the center of town given the compact size of Seyðisfjörður. Yet instantly we were charmed by the lovely, colorful wooden buildings for which Seyðisfjörður is known for. Since Seyðisfjörður is quite small, many travelers simply pass it by. However, if you love taking a hike and having literally the entire mountainside to yourself followed by world-class Icelandic dining, then a night in Seyðisfjörður is definitely something you should do and highly recommended.
First glance of Seyðisfjörður
The tongue of the long fjord
