On Saturday, December 6th it was our third day in Sydney and my 32nd Birthday. It felt a little strange given the time change as it really wasn’t my birthday at home in the States. It was only December 5th. But in the land Down Under, today was the day so why not celebrate? (I was still at the age where I enjoyed my birthday and still felt relatively young…ha).
It was a free day ahead and I got to pick what to do. Of course I wanted to do something outdoors, athletic and meaningful. Thus we decided to take a train to the Blue Mountains, a place known for its spectacular scenery and fabulous hikes. I couldn’t think of a better way to celebrate my birthday than bushwalking (as the Aussies say). Hiking is one of my favorite sports.
The Blue Mountains are roughly 3,000 feet high and are considered a cool area rainforest. I had read that it is not only a mecca for Sydneysiders who love to do day trips to escape the heat and crowds, but it is also one of Australia’s best known playgrounds with tons of opportunities for adventures sports. The guide book recommended a couple of days. We only had an afternoon, so we decided to make the best of it.
We took the two-hour ride to the mountain town of Katoomba hoping that the unusual cloudy and cool weather would pass. We wanted to experience that fantastic perfect summer weather that Sydney is known for. All I had were shorts since I had expected it to be summery weather. Little did I know, it was going to be freezing as soon as we stepped off the train in the Blue Mountains. It was even colder there than the mere 60 degree weather in Sydney. Brutal.
We arrived at our stop at the town of Katoomba, freezing cold and hungry. It was perfect grazing weather so we decided to test out a couple of the delightful bakeries lining the street. After loading up on pastries and treats, we headed for the trails to do our bushwalk and work it off.
We tramped around the rainforest for awhile, marveling at all the beauty and sights. It was the perfect way to spend my birthday: Doing something I love and being with my dad.
After fully exhausting ourselves and using up all our sugary-induced energy, we headed back to Sydney for one last hurrah at the fabulous restaurant looking right out at the Opera House. We indulged in a huge, gourmet pig out with two bottles of wine and cake. It felt great to be 32. I was looking forward to the rest of the trip.
Here are some photos from the day:
The Blue Mountains were absolutely stunning even in the cloudy, cool weather. The hiking trails are awash with ferns and gorgeous trees. You pass many waterfalls and scenic viewpoints such as the one below.
Birthday girl in the Blue Mountains….if only I could be 32 again!
Bushwalking in the Blue Mountains with my dad:
Deeper into the rainforest it was as dark as night. There were also many waterfalls along the way plus loads of my beloved ferns.
A dinner to remember right next to the Opera House and a show at the Opera
Stay tuned…next post I’m off to the Great Barrier Reef for my first dive!
My trip to Patagonia back in November 2003 had been a eye-opening, soul-searching adventure of a lifetime. I had been in perhaps the most stressful, worst job ever so getting away from the hell I was in at the time, to such a magical place, felt like a boulder had been lifted off my chest. I could breathe again. I could relax. I could enjoy life. I could be me.
But then as they always say in life, all good things must come to an end. I had to go home and back to that god awful job that caused me so much pain and distress. I was trapped in an incredibly unhappy, miserable situation in which I drove home from work each day in tears. Yet there was no way that I could quit, or so I believed. I didn’t want that unfortunate mark on my resume nor on the career ladder I was trying to climb. I felt trapped. Chained. Stuck. And miserable.
How could I go back to that hell? Too much had changed during that week in Patagonia. I realized that it simply wasn’t worth it. You’ve got one shot at life, so why not give it your best? Nothing, and I mean nothing is more important than happiness. I needed to leave that awful, unkind, brutal place and be somewhere completely different where I was treated with kindness, respect and where I felt free. I needed a new beginning and oddly enough, I believe it was fate. I got just that opportunity.
Less than 24 hours after I was home, the mysterious acts of fate rang at my door. On my first day back to work, by noon I was laid off. Just like that, my life had changed. I could not believe my good fortune (for in my eyes being laid off was easier to explain to a future employer than quitting). I felt like it was a sign from above, a voice inside my heart and soul telling me that I was free. It truly was an act of fate.
Looking back now, almost eight years later I realize that it was one of the best things that could have happened to me at the time. For sometimes in life, it takes hardship, struggle and unhappiness to truly realize what is the most important to you. Thus this period of my life greatly encouraged me to examine my life more deeply and figure out after ten years out of college, what I truly wanted out of my life. It was not climbing the corporate ladder, making a lot of money or having a fancy title. It was life itself which meant enjoying it and having a family.
Two weeks after I got laid off from my job, my dad and decided to take a trip. Instead of looking at the negative aspect of being laid off (i.e. not having any money, needing to find a new job, etc) I looked at the positive. I was free! For a travel addict who never ceases to stop wanting to wonder the world, being unemployed offered me an opportunity to take another trip. Thus in early December, a month after returning from Patagonia I found myself on board a Qantas airplane en route to Australia, the land Down Under.
We were fortunate to find an excellent deal with Qantas airlines. For $2,200 we received an international flight to/from Australia, plus three internal flights and hotels in three cities. We would have a two-week trip with four days in Sydney, Melbourne and Cairns to see the Great Barrier Reef. I couldn’t wait!
We left for Sydney on December 2nd. I flew from Minneapolis to LA and arrived around 4:30 PM, early for our 10:30 PM flight. This ended up being a fortunate thing as I was able to score the emergency exit row all the way to Sydney. That meant 14 hours of extra leg room!
The flight was uneventful and I managed to sleep six hours thanks to the extra leg room. Before I knew it, the crew was serving breakfast and we were almost there! I was so excited. I’ve always wanted to go to Australia. I went to New Zealand the previous year and had fallen in love with it promising to someday venture a little further west to make it to Australia. And here I was!
We landed around 9 am in Sydney, feeling extremely disoriented after the 19 hours of flying (the most I’d ever done at that point) yet thrilled to finally be getting off the plane. The next three days proved to be exactly how I’d imagined: Wonderful!
We spent the next few days checking out beautiful Sydney, a fabulous, hip, urban city that is so insanely lovely I thought I could easily live there. We went to both Bondi and Manly Beach, saw a ballet at the Sydney Opera, took a train to the Blue Mountains, walked and shopped til we dropped, and ate splendidly. Sydney was definitely how our guide book described it: Sophisticated. Sexy. Laid Back and cosmopolitan. Plus the people were so beautiful yet not artificial or rude. The city was full of eye candy, that is for sure.
We spent three fabulous days in Sydney before it was time to hit the Great Barrier Reef. I instantly fell in love with the city and can’t wait to someday go back.
Here are some pictures of my time in Sydney:
Leaving on Qantas dec. 2-16 2003….landing in Sydney on the big boy
Lovely flowers in The Royal Botanical Gardens…so refreshing for me in the dead of winter!
Hyde Park
Views of downtown Sydney
Bats swarm the trees in the downtown Botanical Gardens…eerie!
A nice walking path along the harbour…oh I could so live here!
Views of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge
The Harbour Bridge…no, I did not climb it (you can, if you are nuts!)
They say that the best way to see the city is by water so that is exactly what we did. We hopped a ferry and went to spend the afternoon in Manly, a beachside neighborhood. The views from the ferry were spectacular and breath-taking. Sydney is definitely a city that utilizes its waterfront. There are restaurants and bars all along the harbor. What a city!
Catching a ferry to Manly
The Beautiful Sydney Harbour
Sydney’s famous landmark, the Opera house, up close.
The Sydney skyline
We arrived in Manly in the early afternoon and were fascinated by the beach culture of Australia. Everyone from small children to seniors, were decked out in their speedos. Of course, everyone is as fit as can be. More eye candy awaited.
Manly
Manly Beach</em>: I could stay here all day!
Unfortunately our picture perfect weather began to disappear and the clouds moved in. We had to head back to Sydney as it wasn’t a good day for the beach.
The Storm Moving in
After an absolutely delightful dinner looking out the restaurant windows at the famous white sails of Sydney’s Opera House, it was time to go to sleep. We were exhausted but looking forward to our next day.
Day 2 in Sydney ended up being a rainy start. We already had plans to play golf at the Long Reef Golf course outside of Sydney. We took an hour long cab there, began to play and were soaked to the bone in heavy rain. It wasn’t fun but we had to at least play the first nine holes since we couldn’t get our money back at that point.
A rainy day for golf
Thankfully the weather cleared up by early afternoon, so we were able to make a trip over to the world famous Bondi Beach. I had heard that it was a “must see”.
Trip to bondi beach
An open water swim race at the beach.
The clouds were still heavy which was too bad because I really wanted to seat myself at one of the many hip outdoor bars and drink a bottle of wine. Oh well. It just wasn’t in the cards. The weather unfortunately was not cooperating. So when all else fails, what do we do? Eat and drink!
We had another gourmet meal in Sydney and drank our small worries about the weather away. We hoped tomorrow would be better since it was my birthday and we were planning to take the train to the Blue Mountains for a hike in the rainforest. I crossed my fingers when I went to sleep.
Yesterday was my last hike in the White Mountains of Arizona. It wasn’t the hike that I had imagined or wanted to do. Not the 16-miler haul to Mount Baldy. Instead, it was a much shorter hike to a different part of the White Mountains where perhaps we would be able to see some wildlife and scenic views.
We left early in the morning and unfortunately the monsoon clouds were already forming and turning black. It was not a good sign yet we were already in the car and on our way. Plus I’d been offered a free babysitting morning from my mother so I couldn’t pass that up.
My dad and I pulled into the trailhead for the Blue Ridge Trail around 9:30 am hoping it wouldn’t rain. We were mainly going on this hike to view wildlife as I still had not seen a thing since I’ve been here except for a giant bullfrog and a jackrabbit hare the size of a small dog.
The mountains of Arizona is known for a huge variety of both big and small mammals as well as a very diverse assortment of birds. I was hoping to avoid the big mammals such as the Black and Cinnamon (very rare) beers that range for 300 mile territories. I also had no desire to see a Mountain Lion, Coyote or Wolf lurking around. Yet I did want to see a Rocky Mountain Elk or a Mule Deer. That was the main reason why we selected this trail.
We set off walking against lingering clouds and stillness in the air. I also tend to talk a lot and walk with a nervous gait when I know there are bears around. I know they generally are more afraid of you yet I wouldn’t want to find out the hard way, especially if we surprised a mama bear with cubs.
We walked for an hour or so through the trail and saw absolutely no wildlife or views. We were quite disappointed. However, I did see something that was spectacular: The trees. The trail hosted the craziest, spookiest, and most beautiful trees I’d ever seen beside from the firs. Some looked like ghosts or monsters while others just looked plain old weird. I also thought that the alligator junipers with their scaly grey trunks were wild.
Here are some pictures of what I saw. Hope you enjoy!
Also, at the end are some photos taken to another short hike we did that day to a scenic view of the Mongollon Rim. The Mongollon Rim is the dividing line between the Colorado Plateau and the Gila-Salt River watersheds, and contains the largest grove of freestanding Ponderosa Pines in the world. It is quite a spectacular place.
Note to readers: I am here on vacation in the White Mountains of northeast Arizona, home to the largest freestanding Ponderosa Pine Trees in the world, thinking that I would be writing my next few posts on a past trip to Australia. Before leaving, I uploaded all my pictures from Australia and prepared some of the posts. Yet, when I arrived here in the small, hilltop town of Show Low, Arizona, I realized that I was missing the “third eye”. There is plenty of incredible awe-inspiring nature, beauty and culture here to write about. I just had to use that “third-eye” approach and get out there and find it. So instead of Australia, I’m going to write my next few posts on this relatively unknown area of the world: The White Mountains. I will write about the firs, the pines and the most beautiful monsoon clouds I’ve ever seen. Here is my first post in this series. Hope you enjoy! thirdeyemom
We rose early to the morning sun lighting up the pine tree tops lining the White Mountains. The morning sky was azure blue with not a single cloud in the sky. That would surely come later. For we are in the tail end of monsoon season in Arizona where the magical clouds slowly appear, form and become bigger, whiter, brighter and then darker before they release their angry water.
Three generations were going on a hike today. My father, myself and my six-and-a-half-year-old son. We were off to see the tallest mountain in this part of the state, the sacred Mount Baldy. At 11,4000 feet, Mount Baldy is home to some of the oldest, most beautiful Douglas Firs in the world. Some of them dated from 300-350 years old! We were going to find them.
We took the White Mountain Scenic Byway for a little over an hour, driving through some of the other small towns along the way. We passed through meadows, fields of wildflowers and lots and lots of Ponderosa Pines (some dating over 700 years old!). It was a beautiful ride that took us through some unbelievable scenery. I had to pinch myself to remember that we were in Arizona as we had left the desert and cactus long ago.
The last stop before entering Mount Baldy is the huge White Mountain Apache Indian Reservation. There is the usual casino followed by a stark poverty which is very sad. Even the casinos have not been enough to help them here, in this remote part of the country.
As we drive up to the start of the hike to Mount Baldy, we admire the gorgeous, fragrant pines that dot the landscape. These pines could have all been swallowed up in the most recent and largest wild fire in the state of Arizona. The May 2011 Wallow Fire which was started by some careless campers, engulfed 525,000 acres of ancient pines and took over six weeks to put out. It was stopped before reaching Mount Baldy. It would have been even more of a tragedy if these incredible trees were all destroyed.
Here we are at one of the entrances to the trail. Roundtrip the hike is 16 miles, way too much to do with my young son. So we would just hike an hour to the wall and back. We would be certain to find lots of nature and firs.
I had to take a picture of Dad’s notorious backpack with his Nepal patch that we got sewn in when we were there.
Picture of my son and I on our first hike together.
Grandpa and Max setting off..
Entering one of the trail heads to Mount Baldy.
The once cloudless sky is no longer as the monsoon glistening white clouds begin to form above the pines.
Entering the first part of the forest which is mostly pines. You can hear the distant woodpecker searching for food and the bees buzzing.
There are three meadows to pass through before we hit the deep woods. We don’t see any elk just lots of wildflowers.
More clouds are forming. We have until eleven to get off the mountain before the monsoon starts and lightning flashes.
Finally we are inside the fragrant, deep forest searching for 300-year-old Douglas Firs. We found one!
The size of these trees is unbelievable.
When you look at the bark, you can see years and years of fire damage. Yet, somehow these trees have managed to survive and even thrive.
Looking up to the Gods.
Our destination: The wall. Here is where you start heading up but for us it was the perfect lunch spot.
Grandpa and Max sharing a picnic.
After lunch, it was time to head back. The monsoon clouds were forming and getting darker and darker. Along the way, we saw lots of beautiful, special things in the forest. It was fun teaching Max about how things grow.
Here is how the Douglas Firs start….
And lots and lots of colorful mushrooms!
Me saying goodbye to this lovely tree.
The beautiful things I found in the forest…
Showing Max how to count the rings and age the tree:
As we leave, just on time, the clouds continue to form and develop into magical, white, marshmallows…
We are out just in the nick of time….for the clouds begin to darken and the unavoidable afternoon storm began…
The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are. – Samuel Jackson
We woke up Saturday morning to perhaps one of the most perfect days in Patagonia. The birds were singing in full glory to welcome the rising sun above the serene Patagonian landscape. The sky was as blue as the sea and clear except for a few lazy powder puff clouds lingering off in the distance.
We packed our belongings and ate our last meal at the Eco Camp with our friends. Despite the amazing week we had experienced, I felt a deep sadness and distress at the thought of leaving. I knew that leaving the park represented a return to reality: Work, stress, life in the fast lane, and no more “smelling the roses” each day.
As our van pulled out of the park’s main entrance and we looked for one last time at the breathtaking landscape around us, we realized that the view was the exact opposite as when we had pulled into the gates of the park at the start of the week. When we had arrived, our first sight of the park was completely hidden by clouds. When we left, it was nearly cloudless and spectacular.
Like my soul, the clouds had lifted and we could see the phenomenal beauty of the park in all its glory. As I took in my last sight of the park, I made a promise to never stop marveling at the beautiful world we live in and more importantly, to relax more often, enjoy life to its fullest, and most of all, be happy. Out of everything that I had gained from the trip, these few words of wisdom were the most valuable of all.
Last view of the park.
On the way home, in Punta Arenas, I made sure that I had a chance to stop in the Plaza de Armas and rub the toes of the infamous Ferdinand Magellan monument. That means I’ll be back. I certainly hope so!
Stay tuned…next post will be to the Land Downunder!
“To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.” – Bill Bryson
Today was it. The final leg of the “W” trek to the infamous, mysterious las torres, the towers, which are the trademark of this incredible park. It was going to be a long, tiring hike taking over 8 hours of our day. But I was ready for the challenge as I always am. We prayed that we would have a clear day so that we would be able to actually see the towers and the Gods must have been watching us from above. When we woke up in the morning, the sun was shining brilliantly against an azure blue sky. It was a postcard perfect day, a rarity in Patagonia.
Morning view outside our Eco Tent. A few fluffy clouds floated graciously against my favorite colored sky: Blue.
We felt so incredibly lucky. Cristian told us that a group of Irish travelers had attempted the trek to the towers three times over two days and had never seen a thing. Since the towers are the most famous and unique feature in the park, we really wanted to do the hike and more importantly, have decent enough weather so we could make it to the top and see las torres unhidden by the clouds. The thought of such dedication, persistence and perseverance of the Irish trekkers intrigued me. What a pity, I thought reflectively yet secretly hoped we would not be faced with a similar fate.
After another large breakfast of an all-you-can-eat-yet-not-feel-the-slightest-bit-guilty buffet, we headed out for our big hike to las torres. The first forty-five minutes were relatively tiring, knee-breaking work as we ascended from 0 to 1,500 feet rather quickly.
A few more clouds trespassed into the sky. Yet so far so good. The view was still promising.
The hike was a lot of ups and downs through a huge river valley that afforded spectacular panoramic views of the park. The pure air was so fresh that my lungs were overjoyed and at ease. I tried to enjoy each and every step with my eye on the prize.
Here is a picture of the heavenly Valle Ascencio beneath our feet.
I was amazed how well my body was doing given all this hiking. No major aches or pains. I felt like I was on top of the world both physically and mentally, nothing like how I felt healing my old battle wounds for six months after completing my first marathon a year before while working a job that required a ton of tedious travel and unwanted stress. I could feel each part of my body as it worked to move me forward, methodically and purposefully, towards my goal.
There were lots hills in the hike. At times it felt like hiking over a rollercoaster track.
The hike was gorgeous. Our views of the surrounding mountains and the massive glacial valley were phenomenal. I took it all in as best as I could, knowing that today was our last day in the park. We also hiked through a beautiful Patagonian rainforest that had patches of snow on the ground leftover from the previous day’s storm. Thankfully the storm was yesterday and not today as I would have been extremely disappointed to miss this hike.
The blossoming red flowers within the Patagonian snow-covered rainforest. Somehow, Spring had managed to arrive.
The windswept trail showed years and years of trees that had faced the wild forces of Mother Nature in Patagonia.
Cristian pointed out a tree that was recently damaged by the wind. There were remnants of snow scattered across the ground from the previous day’s storm.
The last hour of the hike was the most difficult. We hiked one hour up on terrain peppered with large, slippery rocks left over from the glacial age.
Going up and hitting the glacier Moreno. (No…I’m not falling over with exhaustion or tripping….just bending down to tie my shoe! Thought this picture demonstrated the difficult trekking conditions. I’m seriously not that clumsy!).
At this point, the snow was up to our knees so it was quite exhausting work, taking up all our energy and effort to continue up. We also had to be extremely careful because the rocks had become slippery and we didn’t want an accident to happen hours away from camp.
As we got closer to the top, I had a surge in anticipation. The sky was still clear and we had an excellent chance at seeing all three towers. We knew that this was a rare opportunity so we hurried up as fast as we could. We finally reached a huge boulder, which marked the last ten minutes of the hike to the top. We still couldn’t see anything and were forced to keep our heads down the remainder of the way due to the treacherously slippery and steep conditions.
Almost there!
We continued up and then all of the sudden they appeared, three stunning blue granite towers soaring majestically up in the sky. The sight was so extraordinary that we felt like we were on another planet.
And finally….here they are, all three of las torres, in all their glory jetting up to the sky.
We hiked up to a flat plateau with a superb view of the towers and admired their spectacular height. At almost 10,000 feet high, the towers rose above us in an intimidating manner and it was hard to grasp their true magnitude.
I made it! Yeah!!!!
Paul and I, thankful that we reached the top, got to see the three towers before they disappeared into the clouds.
Getting windier and colder. It was time to put on more layers.
After taking several pictures, we found a perfect spot for our last Patagonian picnic lunch with arguably one of the best views Torres del Paine National Park has to offer. As we admired the view, we felt truly lucky to have seen all three towers uncovered by the clouds, knowing quite well that this rare opportunity was truly a special gift. We stayed for over an hour despite the strong, cold winds that were penetrating our multiple layers of clothes. It was hard to leave knowing that this would be our final trek of the journey.
Me marveling at the towers and reflecting on what this week meant to me. It is amazing how utterly relaxed I felt. It was if my body, mind and soul became one for a last fleeting moment in time. Soon, regretfully, I’d have to go home and face reality.
The knee breaking descent…
As we hiked back to the camp, I took in each awe-inspiring view as much as possible, trying to seal it into my memory as best I could. Despite my fatigue at this point in the trek, I somehow felt a bit lighter with each step as if all the stress in my life had finally been released, up into the sky, chasing after las torres and dissolving into the heavens.
As we made our final approach to the Eco Camp, I at last understood what utter freedom truly meant. When the only thing that matters in life is life itself. I felt so happy and at peace with myself that I didn’t want this trip to end. I wondered why we need so much in today’s world and why our lives are so stressful. It didn’t make any sense to me. In nature, none of that stuff matters.
Almost there…
We arrived at the camp filled with a glorious feeling of accomplishment and deep satisfaction. We had reached our goal and even surpassed it beyond expectations.
Photo of Paul, me and our wonderful guide, Cristian.
That night, we celebrated the end of our journey with our guide Cristian and all the other members of the fabulous Cascada team. We indulged in a fantastic send off dinner and this time the three of us split two bottles of wine. We shared stories of our trip and laughed a lot more freely with our Chilean friends. It was quite a memorable evening despite my lingering headache the next day.
View of the towers from the Eco Camp.
One last look before we went to sleep.
Stay tuned…next post is my last one of Torres del Paine National Park.
“I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.” – Lillian Smith
We rose leisurely, after being trapped for hours in the snow crusted refugio high nestled beneath los cuernos in Torres del Paine National Park. My body felt at peace for once after being so cold, tired and distraught over our miserable, long day of trekking in the Patagonian elements.
I pulled back my covers, climbed out of bed and did the thing I do first each and every morning of the day, no matter where I am: I pulled open the blinds to peer outside. I took in a huge sigh of relief, smiling and thrilled, to see the sun once again. The storm had passed and it was clear once again in Torres del Paine.
We had a leisurely breakfast and left the refugio around ten o’clock for a short four-hour hike along the aquamarine Lago Nordenskjold bringing us back to the luxurious Cascada Eco Camp. Although it was not perfect, it was a gorgeous day in comparison to what we had experienced the day before. It was cool, partly cloudy and dry.
As we hiked away from the refugio, we could see the imposing Los Cuernos (“the horns”) in the background. Cristian told us that the refugio at Los Cuernos was his favorite one in the entire park and we could finally understand why. On a cloudless day, the jagged peaks of Los Cuernos soared majestically in the sky, reaching upwards behind the refugio. The view was quite stunning and serene.
The peaks of Los Cuernos sticking above our refugio.
We took our time and hiked at a light pace, marveling at the spectacular scenery that was finally uncovered. I inhaled the fresh, clean air and let my body relax, taking each step at a leisurely pace.
Passing Lago Nordenskjold, it is still quite cold.
While enjoying our picnic lunch in an open valley, we saw two condors soaring gracefully above us, in search of food. Suddenly I realized that this was what we had come to Patagonia for: An escape from everyday life and a taste of absolute freedom. Being outside surrounded by nature and far away from phones, computers and TV’s, was one of the most liberating feelings I’ve ever experienced. At that moment, I wished we could stay here forever.
Wind blowing fiercely off the mountains….yet the sky was getting bluer and the sun was warming up.
Look at it blow!
Our lunch spot…a little slice of heaven.
We arrived back at the Eco Camp by early afternoon and the weather had done what it is known for in Patagonia—-a complete turnaround. The birds were singly loudly, the sun was shining brightly and there was not a single cloud in the sky. It felt like summer in Patagonia.
View of the Torres (towers) behind the clouds and our destination for tomorrow’s hike.
We took it easy fo the rest of the day, enjoying the change in weather and wishing we had shorts. By late afternoon, our cocktails were awaiting which was followed by a delicious dinner. At this point, we felt truly spoiled. The meal was a far cry from the food at the refugio.
Paul and I enjoyed another gourmet meal at the Eco Camp.
Once again, we had the entire Eco Camp to ourselves and we could only imagine how different our entire experience with Cristian would have been if there were more people on the trip. A group of two is nothing like a group of twenty. The intimacy is gone as well as the serene, peaceful moments which are washed away in continual chatter and noise. How fortunate we were! It felt like fate.
We drank wine as the sun set behind the torres, excited about tomorrow’s hike to the mysterious, granite towers which name this park. We prayed for good weather but remembered Cristian’s famous words: “Never the know” in Patagonia.
Stay tuned….next post will highlight the magical hike to the towers.
“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru
After a fitful night sleep with pelting rain against our paper-thin tent and a real fear that our tent would up and wash away in the flooding waters underneath us, we awoke to utter, damp cold. Throughout the night, I pulled on whatever pieces of extra clothing I had inside my backpack to keep warm. A wool hat, gloves, a fleece, long underwear and thick, warm socks. But I was still frozen to the bone. Worse yet, I was even more fearful about our hike ahead. Given the terrible weather, I was sure it would not be fun but there was nothing we could do. Our schedule was tight and we had to go, rain or shine.
Here is me on that cold Thursday morning, freezing in the tent and not wanting to get up to face the long day ahead of hiking in the elements. Notice my one comfort from home, my “international” pillow, that goes with me where ever I go. Given everything, I still had a smile on my face!
Paul nudged me sometime around seven am and it was time to get out of my warm, cozy sleeping bag and start the day. Since I was already dressed
(one benefit of sleeping in your clothes!), I was ready in no time. I unzipped the tent gingerly, and gazed outside. The day looked ok, perhaps even better than expected. It was overcast and there were some dark, heavy clouds. But it had stopped raining and the wind had died down. I thought maybe we’d be lucky and it would clear. Today was supposed to be the second leg of the “W” trek, which was another long hike up to the French Valley, a gorgeous flower ladden valley with supposedly spectacular views of the park.
After a quick breakfast, we set out on our hike in uncertain conditions hoping it wouldn’t turn ugly.We knew that the weather in Patagonia can be absolutely crazy and little did we know, we were about to experience it firsthand. About twenty minutes into the hike, the clouds drew darker and the wind suddenly picked up. Cristain said, “Is coming….the rain” and we quickly put on all our rain gear over our clothes. Then Cristian said more urgently, “Is coming the rain, big rain” and we leaped at high-speed under a large bush for cover. According to Cristian, no matter what kind of advanced rain gear you have, you would be completely soaked within five minutes thus it was best to take cover and wait it out. I had never seen such an intense combination of wind and rain before in my life. It was completely, utterly wild.
After fifteen minutes, the rain let up slightly and Cristian thought it was safe to continue. We really had no choice anyway. We couldn’t go back; we had a schedule to keep and had to keep pushing ahead no matter how miserable it was or became. Unfortunately the rain also meant clouds so we could not see a single thing. That is by far one of the worst disappointments possible when it comes to trekking: All that hard work and no reward with a view. Oh well. I was briefly dismayed by the weather when I remembered that the group before us had rain for the entire week and saw absolutely nothing. What a pity! So I decided to count my blessings and hope for the best.
As we approached the turnoff for the French Valley, it was still raining hard and we were starting to get very cold and wet. We took a break in the wooded area that was kind of protected by the rain and ate our soggy lunch in silence. By this point, I was really discouraged because we would not be able to hike the French Valley yet still had another two, long hours to go in the cold, hard rain until we reached the refugio at Los Cuernos.
Here is a photo taken at our cold, miserable lunch. Yes it is the middle of the day and it is black out! I’m amazed that I am still smiling…..
The last two hours of the hike were quite miserable. The wind and rain picked up and the trail was muddy and slippery. Cristian kept telling us to “use the stick” meaning our hiking poles so we could balance ourselves and not fall into the muddy mess. The rain fell down hard, in sheets and at one point even sideways! We were completely soaked and I could feel water swishing between my toes with each and every step. I couldn’t stop dwelling on the weather and the fact that I was missing out on unseen beautiful views. But there is nothing you can do about Mother Nature and here she was in all her glory.
When we finally saw the refugio off in the distance, we were extremely relieved. Fortunately we arrived just in the nick of time. As soon as we got inside, the wind blew like mad and the rain suddenly turned into sleet and snow. An unbelievable winter storm had struck outside and the refugio shook and creaked with each powerful gust of wind. Wow, we couldn’t imagine being stuck outside, hiking in that insane weather. We hung our wet clothing and gear next to a fireplace to dry and then sat in the main common room watching the storm through twenty-foot glass windows in complete amazement and fascination. It was winter in Patagonia indeed.
The rest of the afternoon and evening at the refugio was quite an experience in itself. One by one, wet, soggy trekkers would enter the refugio going through the same routine as we did; first a huge sigh of relief, followed by removing all wet items and hanging clothing to dry by the crowded fireplace, and finally sitting down at our table and telling us about their adventure getting to the refugio. By the end of the day, there were about twenty of us trapped inside the refugio from all over the world. SInce there was not much else to do, we hung out and talked for hours. I couldn’t stop thinking how crazy it was being stuck inside this place sitting at a table filled with people from all over the world in one of the most faraway places I’d ever been.
The wind howled and rocked the refugio all night long yet both Paul and I slept like a baby, warm and dry, with the fire still smoking out in the common area. Since we had no idea what the weather would be in the morning, we decided to indulge in an extra hour of sleep. When we got up, I peeked out the window and lone behold there was a blue sky! We were so happy!
Photo the next day of the Refugio los Cuernos where we spent a unforgetable night.
Photo the next day of Los Cuernos (the horns).
Unfortunately we were not able to get many photos of our day trekking but were thankful for the beautiful days we already had and hopeful that the weather would return to the better. For anything is possible in Patagonia, even four seasons in a day!
Stay tuned…next post will continue our trek along the famous “W” trail at Torres del Paine National Park.
“It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.” Sir Edmund Hillary
Wednesday we woke up at our usual time of seven o’clock and were the earliest risers in the entire place. I was surprised that no one else in the jam-packed refugio was up because today’s hike was going to be a big one. We would start the park’s famous “W” trek with a 17-mile, 8 hour trek to the Grey Glacier. The “W” trek is the most popular trek in the park because it takes hikers in the form of a “W” to all the park’s major geological features including las torres (the towers), los cuernos (the horns) and the Grey Glacier.
After a filling breakfast of freshly baked breads, jams, cheese and meats, we headed out into the cool, gray day, hoping that it wouldn’t be our first experience hiking hours into the cold, wet Patagonian rain. The terrain was moderate with lots of small ups and downs, and brought us through the beautiful, lush Patagonian rainforest. The distinct smell of cinnamon, coming from the fragrant foliage, made me smile. After awhile, we experienced our first rainfall. It wasn’t too heavy but enough to require wearing our full rain gear of waterproof coats and pants: A necessity when hiking anywhere in Patagonia.
Hiking up through the temperate rainforest, dressed in layers for any possible weather.
One thing that continually amazed me about Patagonia is how often the weather changes. One moment, it is beautiful and sunny and then with a blink of an eye, the clouds roll in, the wind picks up and the rain pelts down and you are freezing cold. Sometimes you can even experience four seasons in a day. Whenever we asked Cristian about the weather, he would reply in his broken English, “Never the know“. That funny, odd sounding phrase became our most cherished remark throughout the trip. We didn’t bother correcting the grammar since that is what made his remark so special.
A picture of me along the way. The weather had become cooler and more typical of Patagonia. We realized how fortunate we were for the previous day’s amazing cloudless sky and continual warm sunshine. A rare treat in Patagonia.
Four hours later, we arrived at the mouth of the Grey glacier where it thrusts into Lago Grey. Although we had seen it from afar the day before, up close it was much more astounding and spectacular. Standing at the edge of Lago Grey, it was amazing to think that the massive glacier is thousands and thousands of years old. It is a pretty unbelievable sight.
Paul and I, frozen to the bone and braving the fierce, unprotected wind, at the first lookout of the mighty Grey glacier.
Grey Glacier is one of many glacial tongues stemming off the massive South Patagonian Ice Field, located between Argentina and Chile The Southern Patagonian Ice Field is massive. It is the second largest ice cap in the world extending for almost 350 kilometres with an area of 16,800 km². To reach Grey Glacier is considered an awe-inspiring highlight of any visit to the park.
View of the Grey Glacier in the clouds. I could only imagine what it would have looked like on a clear day. I’m certain it would have taken my breath away.
As we walked through unbelievable wind and cold, the only comfort was knowing that we were not far from the terminus of the glacier.
We were unbelievably cold yet the clouds begin to slightly lift. We wondered how many people hiked this trail, only to find the glacier completely hidden in the clouds. What a disappointment that would have been after all those hours of suffering the elements!
We have one more corner to round, said Cristian encouragingly. Just a few more steps through the deliciously fragrant Patagonian rainforest.
And then we were there, at the end of the glacier…we made it! Despite the clouds, it was an unbelievable sight. Like an enormous ocean of ice floating into the earth and water. Here I am, very very cold, but happy. What an incredible hike!
Paul and I posing for a shot next to a large boulder for support as well as to illustrate the massive size of the icebergs and glacial tongue. Incredible.
We had lunch at our spot overlooking the glacier and had the entire view to ourselves. We felt so lucky to be here and were even honored to catch a glimpse of two condors flying high above us searching for food. The whole experience felt slightly surreal, like it was all just a pleasant dream during a wonderful, deep slumber. But this was real. We could have stayed here all day, admiring the beauty of the view, despite the bone chilling wind that froze us half to death.
One last shot of Grey Glacier and the magnificent icebergs floating gently across the water.
As we headed back, the clouds began to lift giving us an even better view of the glacier off in the distance and surrounding mountains. We were too tired and cold to take pictures. All we could think about was getting to a dry, warm place and hopefully having a hot shower.
Along the way, we found plenty of fresh water to fill up our drinking water. At first I was hesitant in drinking water directly from a stream as being an American, this was completely unheard of. But Cristian lightly coaxed us, telling us it was the best water on earth, so we dove in, took a sip of heaven and sighed a happy sigh of relief. It was fresh, cold and delicious, like nothing I’d ever tasted.
When we arrived back at the refugio we noticed that our tents had not yet been set up for the night. Poor Cristian had to set them up all by himself after an exhausting 17-mile hike! He finished just in time for cocktails and another delicious dinner was shared together with our newly made friends in the international refugio. We tried to stay up as late as possible knowing that we were in for a cold, rainy night in our lonely, spartan tent. Unfortunately the refugio was booked full that night so we would have to rough it in the cold, wet Patagonian elements.
Our unfortunate accommodations that night, faced with all the wild and craziness of the ever-changing and unpredictable Patagonian weather.
Surprisingly, I slept fell asleep quickly and soundly, despite the strong gusts of wind and fierce bursts of rain hitting and shaking our tent with elevating intensity. All I could think of was “what on earth were we in for tomorrow?”. It wasn’t so sure it was going to be good.
Stay tuned…next post will cover the third day trekking in Torres del Paine National Park. What will the weather be like?
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. Mark Twain
We woke up to the morning sunrise, feeling a little tired yet excited for our first day of trekking. We had come so far and had so many expectations. We hoped we would not be disappointed. We had both slept pretty well but were awoken a few times throughout the night by the new sounds that surrounded us. The sun was shining brightly and the birds were singing majestically. It was spring in Patagonia.
Stepping out of our Eco Tent, we marveled at the sensational view of the sun rising over the towers. Torres del Paine comes from the Spanish word torres meaning towers and the Tehuelche Indian word paine meaning blue. The park is named after the three gigantic, spherical granite towers reaching almost 10,000 feet and the surrounding electric blue glacial lakes within the park. I was continually mesmerized by the towers’ dramatic, captivating beauty, and enjoyed admiring them at different times of the day as they turned from hues of pinks and reds to blues and black as the sun rose and set behind them.
Paul and I on our first morning of trekking
Breakfast was awaiting us as well as a nice, warm fire inside the Eco Dome. Every morning that we were at the Eco Camp, Marcelo would bake us fresh bread rolls and prepare either eggs or potatoes as the main course. We also had grainy cereal, fresh fruit and a cheese plate just in case we were feeling extra hungry. After breakfast, Marcelo would set out all sorts of freshly made ingredients for preparing our lunch, which we would carry and eat outdoors during our trek. My favorite was Marcelo’s homemade chicken salad sandwich served with perfectly ripe, smooth avocados. This became our morning ritual.
By 9 am we were ready to start the trek. Our first day would be a warm-up day meaning fairly easy. We would do a two-hour trek in the morning, then catch the catamaran across Lake Pehoe and do another three-hour hike in the afternoon.
Our first hike was located in the only area in the whole park where you can see guanacos and possibly the elusive puma. It was a nice and easy hike on a gentle rolling trail through the pampa region of the park. The trail was deserted except for a few herds of guanacos. Despite my half disappointment and half relief, we did not spot a puma.
I was holding on tight to the rail so I wouldn’t be blown away by the amazingly, fierce wind. Wow, it was like nothing on this earth!
A stop along the way for a much needed photo op.
Walking down with Lake Pehoe in the distance.
Guanacos in the wild would run as we approached, making it hard to get a good picture.
At the end of the morning hike, we met our driver Carlos who drove us to Lake Pehoe where we caught the catamaran across to the Pehoe refugio, which is the main launching off point for many treks within the park. The catamaran was jammed packed with an international crowd of fellow trekkers, geared in hiking garb and loaded down with enormous backpacks. After such a solitary hike, if felt strange to instantly be surrounded by other people. As far as we could tell, we were the only Americans.
We arrived at the Pehoe refugio a little before noon and dropped off our gear. We would be staying here for the next two nights, the first night inside the refugio’s bunk rooms and the second night at the campground. We headed out for our afternoon hike and were overjoyed to see that the sky had magically cleared up and it was absolutely breathtaking out. We realized how incredibly fortunate we were to have such unbelievable, clear weather because we knew that weather in Patagonia is totally unpredictable and one could spend an entire week there seeing nothing except the clouds and rain. What a huge disappointment that would be!
Cristian chose a wonderful hike that is relatively unknown to other trekkers. In fact, it was one of Cristian’s best kept secrets because the hike was awesome and we had it all to ourselves to enjoy.
We hiked up above the Pehoe refugio to an overlook of the immense Grey glacier. The views along the way of the sun hitting the sparkling, turquoise waters of Lake Pehoe and the imposing snow-capped, craggy mountains took my breath away. Slowly, I felt every muscle in my body relax and break free.
Stunning views of the magical Lake Pehoe and los cuernos (the horns) mountains.
As we hiked, Cristian pointed out the different Patagonian flora, two of my favorites being the calafate and the Antarctic beech, a deliciously fragrant, cinnamon-smelling bush. Since the park contains over 200 kinds of plants and 105 species of birds, there was never a dull moment. We ate lunch outdoors watching for the rare sighting of a mighty condor, awestruck by the incredible beauty of our new surroundings.
Pinch me, is this real? The entrancing beauty of this place captivated my soul.
After lunch, we had a short hike up to the overlook. As we headed up, we were nearly knocked over by the fierce Patagonian wind racing off the massive glacier. Adrenaline rushed throughout my veins. I could hardly contain the excitement and energy I felt as I approached the first sight of the mighty Grey glacier. When I first saw it, I screamed in delight. It was absolutely stunning. The wind was blowing so hard it was wild, but that just seemed to add to the mystical effect of the place. We took a break, finding shelter behind a large rock and admired the glacier from our little perch high above Grey Lake. There were gigantic electric blue icebergs floating in the lake that had broken off from the glacier. Cristian told us that the glacier was slowly retreating each year due to global warming. It was hard to imagine that one day this glacier as well as the 60 other outlet glaciers that branch off the 223 mile long Southern Patagonian ice field could be gone.
First sight of Grey glacier off in the distance with the winds roaring like never before.
Looking relaxed while battling the wildest winds I’ve ever experienced.
Icebergs on Lago Grey….hold on to your hat, Paul, if you want to keep it!
After battling the fierce cold wind, photos and a rest, it was time to head back to the refugio. The walk along the way was probably the most spectacular views of the entire trek. To not have seen the sun and miss this view would have been a tragedy. I felt euphoric: For this is why I take the road less traveled. Why I trek.
We arrived back at the refugio in time for a hot shower before dinner. We were surprised to see that Cristian had carried his own stash of supplies for cocktails thus we were spoiled once again with our Pisco Sours and array of snacks to eat. The refugio was bustling with activity as there was a constant flow of trekkers arriving from a day’s hike. I just smiled, relaxed and enjoyed my cocktails feeling slightly greedy for not sharing with the strangers.
We had a nice meal and enjoyed lots of laughs talking with an international crowd (which is always fun). Cristian had even carried along our own private bottle of Chilean wine which we thoroughly enjoyed and didn’t share with the thirsty onlookers (sorry but I love my vino!). Exhausted, my husband and I retired to our bunk room ready for bed. Yet we both had a fitful night’s sleep given we were in a tiny room with nine strangers, all in different stages of dress (yep, we had a German guy in his bikini undies!), different smells (no comment) and different kinds of noises (some more unpleasant than others).
But soon, we were out cold dreaming of condors, alpine views and glaciers. I couldn’t wait for the next day!
Stay tuned….day 2 of trekking in fabulous Torres del Paine National Park is coming up next! Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the view.
Ever since I was a small girl, I had always traveled.Of course as a child it was not by choice but by destiny. I just so happened to have two young parents who loved to see the world and had eloped during the tender age of 23 and 25 to Europe to get married in the sixties.
There are few places in the world that stir up such longings and true joy of Mother Nature than Patagonia….
We arrived at the insanely beautiful Torres del Paine National Park around 5:30 PM, completely blown away by its unforgettable beauty. After taking a few photos near the entrance of the park, we climbed back into our van and drove in utter silence trying to take in the raw splendor of this incredible place.
Not long after entering the park, we pulled into the Cascada Expediciones Eco Camp and were instantly greeted by Cascada’s warm staff. The team included Marcelo (the head chef), two Assistant chefs and Rodrigo. Although I had seen pictures of the camp on Cascada’s website, seeing it in person was much better. It was phenomenal and well beyond our dreams and expectations.
The Eco Camp is a novel alternative lodging created by Cascada to offer an efficient, luxurious, and earth-friendly option for lodging in the park. It is the first Eco hotel south of the Amazon and the only one in Patagonia. It’s innovative design uses state of the art environmental technology resulting in a luxurious four-star “camping” experience in harmony with nature. Although you don’t stay at the tent the entire time while visiting the park (one night was camping outside in a tent in the rain while two other were staying jam-packed in a crowded refugio), the three nights we were at the Eco Camp were heaven.
The Eco Camp was built a few years before our visit by Cascada in an effort to be more ecologically sound by limiting the impact visitors had on the park and the environment. The Eco Camp is far more than your ordinary campground. There are 16 Eco Tents dispersed around the camp, which are built with a wooden floor and a canvas top. Each ten contains one or two real beds making sleeping a much more comfortable experience after a long day’s hike. There is also a separate hut for the ladies and men’s bathroom, with real live hot showers, a rarity in the trekking world, and efficient toilet systems that create little impact to the environment.
However, in my opinion the highlight by far of the entire Eco Camp is the large Eco Dome which housed the dining and living room for the guests and offers a stunning, panoramic view of the world-famous Torres del Paine (towers) from dusk until dawn. The Eco Dome also contains a full kitchen where delicious home-cooked Chilean meals are served for a sunrise breakfast and candlelight dinners.
During a typical week, the Eco Camp can accommodate up to 30 guests. Yet due to our incredible luck, during our week the lodge accommodated just two: Us. Thus the three nights we stayed there, we were waited and dined on by the entire staff in the most amazing, spectacular “tent” I’ve ever stayed in. It was utterly unbelievable.
Here is a photo of me standing outside the Eco Dome where our warm fire awaited, a view of the mountains and delightful hot food made my belly ache.
Since we were the only ones staying at the camp, we got the pick of our Eco Tent and decided on the one furthest away from the Eco Dome and with the best view. Here it is:
We unpacked a few of our belongings, enjoyed a fresh, hot shower (a pleasure in itself after hours on the road) and then headed to the Eco Dome for the remainder of the night.
When we entered the Eco Dome, Cascada’s “cocktails” were awaiting us as well as a warm fire in an antique wood-burning stove. Every night before dinner Marcelo or Cristian would prepare our cocktails. For Cristian, the word cocktails did not mean exactly what one would think. Cascada’s cocktails would always include a glass of the traditional, yet controversial “Chilean” drink called Pisco Sour (there is a fierce battle going on with the Peruvians who claim it as their national drink) and a large assortment of appetizers ranging from different kinds of cheeses, homemade spreads, crackers and always a bowl of lovely olives. We didn’t bother to correct Cristian’s use of the word cocktails since we found it quite entertaining. During the week, cocktails would become a much-awaited tradition after a long day of trekking.
Me thoroughly enjoying my cocktails, even though all I did that day was sat in a van!
Dinner was served around 8 o’clock and we were amazed to see that it was still light out. In the summer, the sun doesn’t set until well after ten giving trekkers many hours of daylight for exploring. Of course we never hiked that long however it certainly was wonderful watching the sun set while we ate to our hearts’ content.
Photo of Marcelo, our chef, preparing tonight’s meal.
It was just the three of us for dinner: Me, Paul and our guide Cristian, at our own elegantly decorated table with candles and a magnificent view of the Torres del Paine. Marcelo had exquisitely prepared a delicious four-course Chilean meal, which was served with our choice of red or white Chilean wine (I took some of both!). The entire meal was absolutely yummy and well beyond our wildest imagination.
Photo of Paul and I enjoying a wonderful meal of excellent food and conversation. I decided that I could get really used to this kind of lifestyle!
As the sun began to set over the splendid Torres (towers), it was time to get some sleep for we had a huge day of hiking ahead of us. I could hardly wait.
View outside the Eco Dome at ten pm. It was still light, just like Minnesota in the heart of summer.
It was hard to describe my feelings for this magical place. I had written a few words down in my journal which when I look back, years later, on this trip to Patagonia, I believe give it justice: Amazing, spectacular, magical, surreal, special, happiness, peace and most of all, paradise.
Stay tuned…day one of the “W” hike in Torres del Paine National Park.
