Category Archives: TRAVEL BY REGION

A Visit to the Chiriqui National Marine Park, Panama

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The Chiriqui National Marine Park covers 14,740 hectares of islands and sea off Panama’s western Pacific coast and is home to over 20 stunning islands many uninhabited. The best way to reach the park is from Boca Chica which is roughly a 50 minutes drive from David, the capital of Chiriqui Province. A visit to the Chiriqui National Marine Park is a must-do for those seeking beauty, wildlife and adventure, and I was grateful to visit this extraordinary place last October during my two-week trip to Panama.

I arrived at the lovely boutique Hotel Bocas del Mar after a long adventurous day visiting the Soloy Indigenous Community in the highlands of Chiriqui province. The sun was already dipping below the horizon but it was evident how extraordinarily beautiful the setting was.  Located 2 kilometers from Boca Chica, the hotel is the perfect getaway for nature-lovers and those seeking tranquility. Perched high above the ocean, the resort overlooks the start of Chiriqui National Marine Park and is the perfect launching off point for exploring the park.

Sunset over Hotel Bocas del Mar, Boca Chica, Panama

Sunset over Hotel Bocas del Mar, Boca Chica, Panama

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A visit to the Soloy Indigenous Community in the Chiriqui Province of Panama

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In the highlands of western Panama, spanning over 2,500 square miles (6,475 kilometers), lies the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca, the largest and most populous of Panama’s seven indigenous groups. Established in 1997, the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca (partially autonomous regions established in areas where its indigenous people have traditionally lived) was created to grant the Ngäbe-Buglé people autonomy over lands formally in the provinces of Bocas del Toro, Chiriquí, and Veraguas.

The Ngäbe-Buglé people are a vital part of the country’s cultural heritage, playing a key role in coffee production, agriculture, artisan crafts, and the safeguarding of ancient spiritual traditions and ecological wisdom. Despite the challenges posed by climate change, modernization, and limited opportunities in their communities, the Ngäbe-Buglé people are finding ways to navigate the modern world while preserving their unique culture.

One way they are preserving their culture and providing opportunity within their community is through community tourism. After the pandemic, the government along with the help of other nonprofit groups continued to support these grassroots efforts with the launch the Panama Alliance for Community Tourism (PACTO).

On my first day in Panama I got to explore the rich culture of the Ngäbe-Buglé people by joining one of the many tours offered by the community, where we witnessed firsthand the traditions and way of life of the Ngäbe-Buglé people.

Beshi wearing a traditional dress called a Nagua

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Two Days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay in Kathmandu Valley, Nepal

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After a lovely morning exploring the beauty and charm of Bhaktapur, our group headed a short distance away to Nagarkot, a beautiful village nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas roughly 28 kilometers east of Kathmandu. Nagarkot is a popular tourist destination for its majestic Himalayan views, and rich culture and village life. We would spend two days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay as part of our trip with the Community Homestay Network in Nepal.

The Nagarkot Community Homestay located in Bastola gaun (village) began roughly 13 years ago when Suraj Bastola, one of six brothers, hatched the idea of offering tourists a unique experience to stay as guests in their homes.

After surviving the 2015 earthquake that destroyed their village, the community united and persevered, rebuilding one home at a time and slowly reopening their homestay program to tourists. Today, the community welcomes roughly 600 visitors to their village each year, significantly impacting the families’ economic, cultural, and social well-being. Now, many of the children study abroad at university thanks to the additional earnings from the homestays. Women have also seen their children’s health improve and their cultural traditions thrive.

When we arrived, our group of ten journalists and travel advisors were welcomed by the host mamas dressed in the traditional dress of red saris. One by one, we each received a marigold garland and a red dot (tika) on our forehead. After a brief welcoming ceremony, we split into pairs and were introduced to our host mamas. I was rooming with Sara, a delightful woman from the UK who is a travel advisor, and we were staying with Laxmi Bastola and her family.

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Best Dolomites Hikes: Circuit around Croda da Lago near Cortina d’Ampezzo

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Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, lies the spectacular mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Known for its sensational beauty, high-mountain charm, and easy access to hundreds of fabulous hiking trails, it is no surprise that we chose Cortina as our last stop on our family hiking trip this past July.

I discovered the lure of Cortina last year when I went on a hiking trip with my Dad in early May just three months after a total hip replacement. Unfortunately, the timing was all wrong. There was still thick, fluffy snow coating the high mountain trails, almost the entire town had shut down after ski season and would not reopen until June, and my physical recovery and stamina from a full-blown surgery made hiking anything longer than three hours impossible. But I went on the trip, and I fell in love with the place, promising I’d come back again with my family.

Fast forward fourteen months later, I was back with a new lease on my athletic life and my desire to explore the high alpine, challenging trails that I could only dream of the year before. Over the week, we did plenty of awe-inspiring hikes with our favorite to date being the glorious hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi (near Alleghe) and the stunning loop hike around the Sassolungo near Val di Gardena Selva. Each hike was magical, special, and unique.

We had thought we had gotten all of the long, challenging hikes out of our system until we decided to do the Circuit hike around the Croda da Lago. Rated a moderate-hard hike, this 12.5 km/7.7 mile was a beast of a hike given the field of boulders and endless scree.  Yet the wild, rough, and dramatic scenery was worth every effort and sore knees. If you are an avid, experienced hiker, then this hike is for you. Continue reading →

Hiking in Dolomites: Hike from Alleghe to Rifugio Sasso Bianco

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The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our third hike of the trip when we were based in Alleghe. The hike to Rifugio Sasso Bianco. 

Our last hike in Alleghe was the awe-inspiring hike from the western side of Lago di Alleghe to the Rifugio Sasso Bianco.  This hike was on the other side of Alleghe and afforded spellbinding views of the town, its namesake lake, and the flank of Mount Civetta.  The hike was recommended by the helpful man working at the Alleghe Tourist Office in town, who sizing us up, recommended three hikes.

The first two hikes (one that is circular and passes by two dairy farms and the other to Lake Coldai and Tissi Rifugio) are both located at the top of the gondola at the Col dei Baldi and are quite popular and well-traveled. However, the last hike he recommended was not well known. It turned out to be one of those local treasures. It was not crowded (we saw under a dozen people in five hours), led us through two tiny hamlets, and prized us with stunning views of the town, the lake, and the mighty Mount Civetta across the way.  We were rewarded with a delicious hot lunch at the family-run Rifigio Blanco Sasso, a beautiful hut reachable only by foot.

On a clear day, the views at the foot of the Rifugio are known as some of the best in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it was rather cloudy that day. Yet we all still adored this adventurous hike, and I highly recommend it for the lack of crowds, beauty, and beautiful views of the area.

As you climb up, the views of Alleghe and its glorious lake are mystical.

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Above Alleghe: Our first hike in the Italian Dolomites

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The magical spiraling towers of the Italian Dolomites afford some of the most spectacular scenery for hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena and Cortina. We opted to do long day hikes as opposed to staying up in the rifugios (high mountain huts) so we could enjoy hot showers, delightful dinners, and the coziness of our own space where we could spend time together as a family versus sharing accommodations with a handful of fellow hikers. While I’ve done it both ways, for our family of four this trip strategy proved to work very well. And, the trip was one of our best family trips yet.  A trip that we will be sure to remember for years to come. 

We began our trip in the lovely Italian village of Alleghe, located roughly one hour and forty-five minutes north of Venice, Italy. Alleghe is a beautiful mountain resort that is known for its aquamarine lake and small-town vibe. Its handful of restaurants, shops, and accommodations are easily walkable and it never felt overcrowded like other popular mountain towns in the Dolomites.

We loved Alleghe as we felt like we had the entire place to ourselves, and saw very few tourists. It made our experience even that much better as we truly felt like we could connect with the locals which is my favorite way to travel.

Looking down on the Italian village of Alleghe in the heart of the Dolomites.

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The Panauti Community Homestay: Meet the Pioneers behind Nepal’s Community Homestay Network

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In the hills of Kathmandu Valley lies the ancient village of Panauti, renowned for its culture, traditions, and well-preserved Newari architecture. At the heart of the community is the Panauti Community Homestay a women-led initiative that started in 2012 and later became one of the founding members of the Community Homestay Network (CHN). Today CHN has spread to 36 communities throughout Nepal, creating hope, inspiration, and opportunity for rural communities worldwide.

Shila rose just before sunrise as the golden ray of light bathed the rice and potato fields outside her window in a brilliant ethereal light. The morning air was still, as Shila put on her slippers and tiptoed to her kitchen. She prepared a cup of masala tea, and a plate of flowers, colored rice, and sweets for her morning puja, an offering to the Hindu gods. She did not have time for her daily meditation this morning. Instead, she would be preparing for the arrival of her guests. 

Shila had to clean her house, collect the fresh vegetables for the upcoming meals, pick flowers for our garlands, and ready her attire, draping her crimson red saree over the couch to let the humid monsoon air unwrinkle the fabric. Soon she would meet with the other host “mamas” of the Panauti Community Homestay to prepare for our arrival. 

At the top of the foothills of the Kathmandu Valley, our group of adventurous travelers had just witnessed a mesmerizing Buddhist prayer service at the sacred Namo Buddha monastery and were preparing for our next, exhilarating experience: A 10 km bike ride down from the monastery’s Himalayan perch through the rural villages, potato fields, and stunning landscape to Panauti, a historic Nepali city renowned for its culture, beauty and mystique, where we would meet our homestay mothers. 

It had been fourteen years since my first trip to Nepal, a truly life-changing experience that launched my career as a writer and established myself as a lifelong wanderlust. Now in the prime years of my life, at 52 I wondered if another trip could be as transformative as the first. 

Over the next two days of my homestay, I’d learn to reconnect with my past self and develop deeper insight into what it means to be a strong, independent woman, all through the eyes of my host mother who not only opened up her home but also her heart, showing me a strength and compassion that transcends borders. 

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A Maya Community Homestay in Ek’ Balam: Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

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The recent opening of the Maya Train through the heart of Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula has been greeted with much criticism around the world. However, a small, dedicated alliance of indigenous and local community-led tourism groups are hoping that the opening a new train line will help keep their traditions, culture and community alive

Roughly 127 km north of the white sandy beaches and luxurious resorts of Tulum lies the Maya community of Ek’ Balam.  Founded in the late 1970s the people of Ek’ Balam continue to live as their ancestors have for centuries, following their indigenous traditions and culture centered around farming the milpa (cornfield), making traditional handicrafts, and cooking. Its scattering of homes built alongside a dusty, dirt road, are adorned with colorful sabanas (sheets) as makeshift doors allowing the smoke generated from cooking their daily meals over a wood-burning stove inside their house to easily escape. It is a community where the locals prefer to sleep tucked inside a hand-woven hammock instead of a store-bought bed. A practice they learn and perfect as babies.

Entering the community of Ek’ Balam, the homes are adorned with beautiful, colorful sabanas and handwoven hammocks.

Yet for what Ek’ Balam lacks in luxuries, they make up with a rich culture rooted around a warm and welcoming community that would only be a small dot on the tourist map if it wasn’t for the nearby ancient Maya ruin with the same name.

Ek’ Balam started introducing community-based tourism ten years ago to earn additional income and showcase and preserve their indigenous culture for generations to come. Their community tourism cooperative the Unajil Ek Balam Community Association is part of  Co’ox Mayab, a social enterprise that offers similar initiatives throughout the region.

While many similar indigenous-led community tourism projects shut down during the pandemic, Ek’ Balam survived. Located not far from one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos  (magical towns), Valladolid, Ek’ Balam is hoping for an increase in visitors and desperately needed infrastructure that the new Maya train stop and Visitor Center opening this summer in nearby Valladolid will bring.

Some of the lovely local ladies of the community of Ek’ Balam

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A Trip back to where it all began: Nepal

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Nepal is an incredibly special place for me. I was there 14 years ago on a life-changing trek with my dad. Both of us were celebrating milestone birthdays, and we set out to hike the Annapurna Trek with just a guide and a porter who became dear friends. This experience inspired me to start my blog, Thirdeyemom, and set me on the path of writing about sustainable, impactful travel for years to come.

In May, I returned to Nepal with Community Homestay Network (CHN) for a whirlwind trip exploring the rural communities of Kathmandu Valley for a week-long trip. During the week, I stayed with local families at two different community homestays and captured an intimate glimpse of local life in Nepal. It was truly amazing, and I am excited to share more stories in the coming weeks here on my blog and in other publications.  (ICYM: I shared a lot of reels on Instagram during my trip. Check them out here). 

Before the press trip began, I had a day on my own to revisit some of the special places in Kathmandu. I hired a local guide, named Dhiroj,  through Community Homestay, and did an afternoon tour of three top sacred sights: Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, and Kathmandu Durbar Square. While I’d been to Swayambhunath and Kathmandu Durbar Square on my first visit to Nepal 14 years ago, I had never been to the sacred religious site of Pashupatinath. I was in for a delightful spiritual surprise and a warm welcome back to the beauty of Nepal’s people, culture, religions, traditions, and rituals.

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A Maya Cooking Class and Visit to the Cenote Yokdzonot in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

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Community-Based Tourism: A Maya Cooking Class and Visit to the Cenote Yokdzonot in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

This is the third post in a series on my trip with RISE Travel Institute. This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical.

During the week-long trip, RISE Travel Institute participants visited four community-led tourism initiatives showcasing the rich traditions, culture, history, and vibrancy of local and Indigenous communities. We also learned about the important and beautiful biodiversity of the region.

RISE travelers got to see the benefits firsthand of sustainable, community-based tourism (CBT). If done correctly, CBT can provide sustainable tourism income, conservation, and preservation of precious ecosystems and cultures to communities that are often left off the typical tourism map while affording travelers with some of the richest, most memorable experiences of a trip.

Yokdzonot, the Yucatán Peninsula

After a morning tour by a local guide at Chichén Itzá, we spent the afternoon visiting Yokdzonot, a cenote and ecotourism project managed by a local women’s cooperative where we enjoyed a Yucatecan cooking class and a refreshing swim in crystal clear waters of this stunning cenote.

The Yokdzonot Cenote, which means “over the cenote” in the Mayan language, is a cenote of 40 meters in diameter and 45 meters deep which is located within a local Maya community of the same name.  The town is less than 20 km from the popular, well-visited archaeological site of Chichén Itzá, which gives the community a constant flow of visitors allowing the cooperative, called Zaaz Koolen Haa, to develop sustainable, community-based tourism initiatives.

The town was established in 1932 by a group of workers who constructed the first railroad in the region and used the cenote as a natural water source. Once piped water arrived in the town, the cenote was abandoned and tragically became a garbage dump that remained for decades. Continue reading →

Community-Based Tourism: Isla Columpios and Chuburná in the heart of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

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Community Tour of Isla Columpios and Chuburná by local fishermen in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

This is the second post in a series on my trip with RISE Travel Institute. This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical.

During the week-long trip, RISE Travel Institute participants visited four community-led tourism initiatives showcasing the rich traditions, culture, history, and vibrancy of local and Indigenous communities. We also learned about the important and beautiful biodiversity of the region.

RISE travelers got to see the benefits firsthand of sustainable, community-based tourism (CBT). If done correctly, CBT can provide sustainable tourism income, conservation, and preservation of precious ecosystems and cultures to communities that are often left off the typical tourism map while affording travelers with some of the richest, most memorable experiences of a trip.

Chuburná

On the second day in the Yucatán, we set off to the tranquil fishing village of Chuburná located roughly 40 minutes south of Mérida near the town of Progreso, the Yucatán’s main port and the launching off point to the stunning yet relatively unknown (to tourists) Isla Columpios.

This rich mangrove ecosystem and group of small islands and sand banks on the coast were formed after the devastation of Hurricane Gilberto in 1986. The hurricane wiped out all the infrastructure and it took the community over 15 years to rebuild and recover, working with community leaders and local government to develop sustainable fishing practices and community-based tourism.

Today, the area is managed by four groups of fishermen and community leaders who work together as a cooperative to manage this rich ecosystem and ecotourism project. The cooperative ensures loyal competition among the fisherman including price regulation and effective conservation and management of this delicate ecosystem.

Leaving the port

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Two Days in Mérida, Mexico: The Heart of the Maya Yucatán

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Two Days in Mérida, Mexico: The Heart of the Maya Yucatán

Those who follow my blog know how much I value sustainable and responsible travel. For the past 14 years, I have worked hard to share stories that highlight ways that travelers can travel responsibly and have worked with many different organizations that work to educate, inspire, and advocate for sustainable travel. One such organization is RISE Travel Institute, a nonprofit organization with the mission to create a more just and equitable world through travel education.

Founded by Dr. Vincie Ho, RISE works to educate travelers, tourism professionals, and college students about critical issues regarding responsible, impactful, sustainable, and ethical travel through their online courses and their Flagship Certificate program. I have worked with RISE Travel Institute as a volunteer for the past few years and am empowered by the incredible work this volunteer-led organization is doing to make an impact.

This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program joined RISE Travel Institute for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical. The framework of the trip was curated by Etnica Travel and designed with the mission of RISE in mind.  During the week-long visit to the Yucatán, we experienced firsthand the rich local and indigenous culture far beyond the beaches and resorts of Cancún, Tulum, and Playa del Carmen. It was an incredible trip on so many levels where each one of us learned a great deal about the value, importance, and impact that can be made through Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical (RISE) travel.

Members of our group in Mérida during a city tour.

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