Two Days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay in Kathmandu Valley, Nepal

After a lovely morning exploring the beauty and charm of Bhaktapur, our group headed a short distance away to Nagarkot, a beautiful village nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas roughly 28 kilometers east of Kathmandu. Nagarkot is a popular tourist destination for its majestic Himalayan views, and rich culture and village life. We would spend two days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay as part of our trip with the Community Homestay Network in Nepal.

The Nagarkot Community Homestay located in Bastola gaun (village) began roughly 13 years ago when Suraj Bastola, one of six brothers, hatched the idea of offering tourists a unique experience to stay as guests in their homes.

After surviving the 2015 earthquake that destroyed their village, the community united and persevered, rebuilding one home at a time and slowly reopening their homestay program to tourists. Today, the community welcomes roughly 600 visitors to their village each year, significantly impacting the families’ economic, cultural, and social well-being. Now, many of the children study abroad at university thanks to the additional earnings from the homestays. Women have also seen their children’s health improve and their cultural traditions thrive.

When we arrived, our group of ten journalists and travel advisors were welcomed by the host mamas dressed in the traditional dress of red saris. One by one, we each received a marigold garland and a red dot (tika) on our forehead. After a brief welcoming ceremony, we split into pairs and were introduced to our host mamas. I was rooming with Sara, a delightful woman from the UK who is a travel advisor, and we were staying with Laxmi Bastola and her family.

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The Panauti Community Homestay: Meet the Pioneers behind Nepal’s Community Homestay Network

In the hills of Kathmandu Valley lies the ancient village of Panauti, renowned for its culture, traditions, and well-preserved Newari architecture. At the heart of the community is the Panauti Community Homestay a women-led initiative that started in 2012 and later became one of the founding members of the Community Homestay Network (CHN). Today CHN has spread to 36 communities throughout Nepal, creating hope, inspiration, and opportunity for rural communities worldwide.

Shila rose just before sunrise as the golden ray of light bathed the rice and potato fields outside her window in a brilliant ethereal light. The morning air was still, as Shila put on her slippers and tiptoed to her kitchen. She prepared a cup of masala tea, and a plate of flowers, colored rice, and sweets for her morning puja, an offering to the Hindu gods. She did not have time for her daily meditation this morning. Instead, she would be preparing for the arrival of her guests. 

Shila had to clean her house, collect the fresh vegetables for the upcoming meals, pick flowers for our garlands, and ready her attire, draping her crimson red saree over the couch to let the humid monsoon air unwrinkle the fabric. Soon she would meet with the other host “mamas” of the Panauti Community Homestay to prepare for our arrival. 

At the top of the foothills of the Kathmandu Valley, our group of adventurous travelers had just witnessed a mesmerizing Buddhist prayer service at the sacred Namo Buddha monastery and were preparing for our next, exhilarating experience: A 10 km bike ride down from the monastery’s Himalayan perch through the rural villages, potato fields, and stunning landscape to Panauti, a historic Nepali city renowned for its culture, beauty and mystique, where we would meet our homestay mothers. 

It had been fourteen years since my first trip to Nepal, a truly life-changing experience that launched my career as a writer and established myself as a lifelong wanderlust. Now in the prime years of my life, at 52 I wondered if another trip could be as transformative as the first. 

Over the next two days of my homestay, I’d learn to reconnect with my past self and develop deeper insight into what it means to be a strong, independent woman, all through the eyes of my host mother who not only opened up her home but also her heart, showing me a strength and compassion that transcends borders. 

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A Trip back to where it all began: Nepal

Nepal is an incredibly special place for me. I was there 14 years ago on a life-changing trek with my dad. Both of us were celebrating milestone birthdays, and we set out to hike the Annapurna Trek with just a guide and a porter who became dear friends. This experience inspired me to start my blog, Thirdeyemom, and set me on the path of writing about sustainable, impactful travel for years to come.

In May, I returned to Nepal with Community Homestay Network (CHN) for a whirlwind trip exploring the rural communities of Kathmandu Valley for a week-long trip. During the week, I stayed with local families at two different community homestays and captured an intimate glimpse of local life in Nepal. It was truly amazing, and I am excited to share more stories in the coming weeks here on my blog and in other publications.  (ICYM: I shared a lot of reels on Instagram during my trip. Check them out here). 

Before the press trip began, I had a day on my own to revisit some of the special places in Kathmandu. I hired a local guide, named Dhiroj,  through Community Homestay, and did an afternoon tour of three top sacred sights: Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, and Kathmandu Durbar Square. While I’d been to Swayambhunath and Kathmandu Durbar Square on my first visit to Nepal 14 years ago, I had never been to the sacred religious site of Pashupatinath. I was in for a delightful spiritual surprise and a warm welcome back to the beauty of Nepal’s people, culture, religions, traditions, and rituals.

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Why Using Local Guides Matters

Over the past twenty years, the world has truly become a smaller place. Once hard to reach, remote parts of the planet that used to be only for the most adventurous of tourists, have become more accessible. Places like the Himalayas of Nepal, the tiny fishing villages of Southeast Asia and the bushland of the Maasai have opened their doors for travelers,  allowing us to see their beautiful unique cultures as never before.

Although it is wonderful that more of the remote corners of the world are now accessible, it comes with a price. The negative impact of tourism on the environment, culture and people of a place, threatens it’s very own authenticity and landscape. This is why choosing sustainable travel is critical if we want to preserve and protect these destinations for the future.

My father and I have been trekking in remote places for decades and every place we go we use local trekking guides and companies. I honestly admit that the initial reasons behind our choice were purely convenience and economical.  However, the more we began using local guides, it became clear how incredibly rewarding and important it is to hire locally. Not only do you get a more intimate cultural experience by getting to see a country through their eyes, your investment also greatly supports the local community in which you are visiting. By hiring local, all money you spend on your trip is directly reinvested back in that very place that is so special instead of profiting an international corporation who only has financial interests to gain.

Furthermore, the cross-cultural friendships and understanding that are made and shared by hiring local are priceless. Not only does it create goodwill, it brings a new perspective and understanding on both sides of the relationship. As a client, you get to learn as much as possible about a culture, history, society, life, flora and fauna and environment. As a guide, you gain a better understanding of people who are so different from those portrayed in the media. Together, you can create life-long friendships that promote cultural understanding and peace.

Kilimanjaro hike to Barranco Camp Machame Route

Our group heading down the trail on Kilimanjaro.

Here are three examples of why supporting local guides matters.

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My heart breaks for Nepal

“We cannot stop natural disasters but we can arm ourselves with knowledge: so many lives wouldn’t have to be lost if there was enough disaster preparedness.” – Petra Nemcova

News of the devastating earthquake this past Saturday has sent shock waves throughout the world. Once again, Nepal is struggling to help rescue survivors after another catastrophe. For me personally, my heart is broken. A place that has meant so much to me has continually suffered and is now in ruins. A place where I found my voice and was inspired to start this blog.

Me and my Dad at the start of the Annapurna Trek. November 2010.

They sometimes say that bad things happen in threes. In Nepal’s case, I certainly hope it ends at three. A series of natural tragedies over the last year has brought heartache and struggle to this tiny mountain country, one of the poorest countries in the world.

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On Top of the World at Nepal’s Thorung-La

I will never forget the moment I was on top of the world. I was trekking around the Annapurna through the world’s largest pass – Thorung La. We rose in darkness and anticipation of our two-hour ascent up to the highest point of our Himalayan hike, the pass at Thorung La at an intimidating 17,769 feet (5,416 m). 

We had spent a sleepless freezing cold night at Thorung Base Camp to acclimatize before our morning ascent. I remember being so utterly cold during the night in our barren, unheated room that I emptied every single item of dirty clothing out of my pack and slept in everything I had along with three wool blankets. Unfortunately I was still frozen to the bone and could hardly sleep that night due to the high altitude and apprehension about the next day.

Would I be ok? Would I get altitude sickness? Would I make it to the top? These were all the worries and concerns that were racing through my restless mind and keeping me up in the middle of the cold, dark night.

Our last day-long hike up to the top of Thorung La Pass in Nepal.

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My Top Five Wild Hikes

I just finished reading Cheryl Strayed’s “Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail” a dark, raw and fiercely humorous book on how one woman finds herself during a three-month long trek through the wild Pacific Crest Trail. The book is powerful, emotional, honest and inspiring, and Strayed uses her brilliant memoir to take a hard look at self-discovery, heeling and change.

Of course when times are tough, we can’t always pick up our bags and leave town. Yet, I often find that there is no better way to escape and reflect upon life than to go on a hike, and the more remote and wild, the better. I have been fortunate to have done many wonderful adventurous hikes over the years.  Although every hike I’ve done has been special and has brought me to a new place, there are a select few that have truly inspired me and are unforgettable.

Here is a list of the top five wild hikes that are bound to get your mind thinking.

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Inspiration

“It is impossible to live without failing at something – unless you live so cautiously that you might as well not have lived at all, in which case you have failed by default”. – J.K. Rowling

This week has been a bit hairy so I thought I’d post some of my favorite photos of mountains I’ve hiked as they always calm my soul. Photos above from France, Nepal and Guatemala. This fall, I will be adding Bolivia to my list of great hikes. 

Stay tuned…

The path not taken

This week’s Sunday Post theme by Jakesprinter is roads. I couldn’t help but think of this theme in both a literal and metaphorical way. As there was one road that I traveled on while hiking the Annapurna trail in Nepal, that changed my life forever and set me on my future path to where I am today.

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India’s quest to become polio free has arrived

As many of you know, In January I attended the UN Foundation’s Shot@Life Summit along with 45 other fellow Americans, who will be working hard to raise awareness and funding to provide vaccines to impoverished nations around the world. 

Since January, I have been steadily following all news vaccine-related and have been blown away by India’s quest to become a polio free nation.  In one of the most populous nations in the world that has many places that are extremely difficult to reach, the massive effort to vaccinate India’s children and wipe the deadly polio virus away, has been a hair-raising feat.

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Giving back: How a trip to a third-world country changed my life

I started my blog thirdeyemom back in February with modest expectations.  I have always loved to write and I have been a wanderlust since birth.  I wanted to share my experiences of seeing the world with others.  I wanted to have some kind of voice besides my leather-bound journal.

I felt a little nervous about writing a blog.  Many thoughts crossed my mind.  What if no one ever read it?  What if no one liked it?  What if I was disappointed?  

But excitement and anticipation took over all my doubts and I said “What the hell“, you only live once.  By using a pen name, thirdeyemom, no one will even really know who I am!  I can be somewhat anonymous. (Yeah…right).

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