Isla Bolaños, Chiriqui National Marine Park, Panama
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A Visit to the Chiriqui National Marine Park, Panama

The Chiriqui National Marine Park covers 14,740 hectares of islands and sea off Panama’s western Pacific coast and is home to over 20 stunning islands many uninhabited. The best way to reach the park is from Boca Chica which is roughly a 50 minutes drive from David, the capital of Chiriqui Province. A visit to the Chiriqui National Marine Park is a must-do for those seeking beauty, wildlife and adventure, and I was grateful to visit this extraordinary place last October during my two-week trip to Panama.

I arrived at the lovely boutique Hotel Bocas del Mar after a long adventurous day visiting the Soloy Indigenous Community in the highlands of Chiriqui province. The sun was already dipping below the horizon but it was evident how extraordinarily beautiful the setting was.  Located 2 kilometers from Boca Chica, the hotel is the perfect getaway for nature-lovers and those seeking tranquility. Perched high above the ocean, the resort overlooks the start of Chiriqui National Marine Park and is the perfect launching off point for exploring the park.

Sunset over Hotel Bocas del Mar, Boca Chica, Panama

Sunset over Hotel Bocas del Mar, Boca Chica, Panama

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A visit to the Soloy Indigenous Community in the Chiriqui Province of Panama

In the highlands of western Panama, spanning over 2,500 square miles (6,475 kilometers), lies the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca, the largest and most populous of Panama’s seven indigenous groups. Established in 1997, the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca (partially autonomous regions established in areas where its indigenous people have traditionally lived) was created to grant the Ngäbe-Buglé people autonomy over lands formally in the provinces of Bocas del Toro, Chiriquí, and Veraguas.

The Ngäbe-Buglé people are a vital part of the country’s cultural heritage, playing a key role in coffee production, agriculture, artisan crafts, and the safeguarding of ancient spiritual traditions and ecological wisdom. Despite the challenges posed by climate change, modernization, and limited opportunities in their communities, the Ngäbe-Buglé people are finding ways to navigate the modern world while preserving their unique culture.

One way they are preserving their culture and providing opportunity within their community is through community tourism. After the pandemic, the government along with the help of other nonprofit groups continued to support these grassroots efforts with the launch the Panama Alliance for Community Tourism (PACTO).

On my first day in Panama I got to explore the rich culture of the Ngäbe-Buglé people by joining one of the many tours offered by the community, where we witnessed firsthand the traditions and way of life of the Ngäbe-Buglé people.

Beshi wearing a traditional dress called a Nagua

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Greether: Connecting female travelers to female guides around the world

As a woman, one of the scariest parts of solo travel is safety. Sadly, it is a reality that many female travelers face even if traveling in a small group. When I travel solo, I always take precautions such as having a trusted employee from the hotel meet me and pick me up at the airport, and ask the hotel for recommendations on hiring local guides. However, what if you could find your own personal, fully vetted female guide? The great news is that now there is a service for connecting female travelers with vetted female guides around the world. Meet Greether, and its founder Vanessa Karel.

With its tagline “Experience safer travel with a local bestie”, Greether is a leading platform that connects female travelers with local female guides to provide safe, inclusive, and empowering travel experiences.  Its mission is to promote cross-cultural understanding and peace through travel.

With a presence in over 1,000 cities and 100 countries, Greether is transforming the way women travel, ensuring that they can explore the world safely while supporting local female entrepreneurs. Greether is committed to fostering global connections that break down barriers and create a more inclusive tourism industry.

I had the opportunity to learn more about Greether and its founder Vanessa Karel. Check out this interview to discover the inspiration behind Greether, how it works, and why you should consider it for your next trip.

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Kiki Waterfall, Chiriqui province, Panama
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Why you should always purchase travel insurance and how to demystify it

Travel insurance is not just for those off-the-beaten-path destinations or people over 65. Instead, it is essential for anyone who travels. Yet figuring out how to demystify all the different options can be daunting. That is why I went right to the source. Read this Q&A with Christina Tunnah, General Manager of the Americas for World Nomads, a global leader in travel insurance and inspiration. 

As a travel writer who travels for a living and fun, it is a bit ironic that I am writing this story but I am embarrassed to admit that I made a serious mistake last month by not purchasing travel insurance. I was in the habit of purchasing insurance with every trip before the pandemic but then I had fallen out of the habit of buying it, thinking that I would not need it. How wrong I was!

It wasn’t swimming in a bat cave, going down the Teribe River on a homemade bamboo raft, or hiking and swimming in a waterfall that caused me to seriously injure my ankle and foot. Nope. It was searching to capture on film the elusive red-tailed white bird at Bird Island on a snorkeling boat, forgetting I was wet from swimming and falling and crashing hard on my foot.

Entering the Bat Cave on Isla Bastimentos in Bocas del Toro islands, Panama

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Nagarkot Community Homestay, Nagarkot, Nepal
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Two Days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay in Kathmandu Valley, Nepal

After a lovely morning exploring the beauty and charm of Bhaktapur, our group headed a short distance away to Nagarkot, a beautiful village nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas roughly 28 kilometers east of Kathmandu. Nagarkot is a popular tourist destination for its majestic Himalayan views, and rich culture and village life. We would spend two days at the Nagarkot Community Homestay as part of our trip with the Community Homestay Network in Nepal.

The Nagarkot Community Homestay located in Bastola gaun (village) began roughly 13 years ago when Suraj Bastola, one of six brothers, hatched the idea of offering tourists a unique experience to stay as guests in their homes.

After surviving the 2015 earthquake that destroyed their village, the community united and persevered, rebuilding one home at a time and slowly reopening their homestay program to tourists. Today, the community welcomes roughly 600 visitors to their village each year, significantly impacting the families’ economic, cultural, and social well-being. Now, many of the children study abroad at university thanks to the additional earnings from the homestays. Women have also seen their children’s health improve and their cultural traditions thrive.

When we arrived, our group of ten journalists and travel advisors were welcomed by the host mamas dressed in the traditional dress of red saris. One by one, we each received a marigold garland and a red dot (tika) on our forehead. After a brief welcoming ceremony, we split into pairs and were introduced to our host mamas. I was rooming with Sara, a delightful woman from the UK who is a travel advisor, and we were staying with Laxmi Bastola and her family.

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Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Bhaktapur, Nepal
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A Cultural Journey through Thimi and Bhaktapur, Nepal

It had been fourteen years since I last visited Nepal and this magical country has held a special place in my heart ever since. That fateful trip birthed this very blog which I have been sharing my journey ever since. In May 2024, I returned to Nepal with Community Homestay Network (CHN) for a whirlwind trip exploring the rural communities of Kathmandu Valley for a week-long trip.  This trip called Community Connect, brought together journalists, travel advisors, and others all passionate about the power of community tourism to change the face of travel.

Community Homestay Network (CHN) is a social enterprise that supports a network of community homestays in Nepal. CHN connects travelers with communities across Nepal, providing a unique opportunity to stay with Nepali families and immerse themselves in real Nepali life. At the same time, local host families can share their culture and landscapes with the world while gaining access to a sustainable source of income through tourism. The authentic experiences CHN offers travelers are created to positively impact Nepali communities, women, and families, as well as the travelers themselves.

The first day of our trip began with a short drive outside of Kathmandu to the historic Newari region of Bhaktapur, an area rich in culture and lavish Newari architecture, Hindu temples, heritage, and beauty. Our first stop was in Madhyapur Thimi, a village known for its pottery and ceramics where we took a pottery class and learned how the community supports themselves through this beautiful craft.  Thimi is one of the ancient cultural and historical villages along the ancient trade route from Bhaktapur to Kathmandu, and is known as the pottery capital of the region. Roughly 11 kilometers southeast of Kathmandu, Thimi is easily reachable for a day trip and continues to play an important role in Nepali culture and tourism.

Siddhikali Temple, Thimi, Bhaktapur, Nepal

The impressive 17th-century Hindu Siddhikali Temple. The two-story roofed temple is dedicated to Hindu Gods Kali, Shiva, and Ganesh.

The first thing I noticed while walking the ancient streets of Nepal is that color is everywhere in Nepal and means everything. It can be found in its religion, culture, clothing, food, and of course, within the natural environment.

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Best Dolomites Hikes: Circuit around Croda da Lago near Cortina d'Ampezzo
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Best Dolomites Hikes: Circuit around Croda da Lago near Cortina d’Ampezzo

Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, lies the spectacular mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Known for its sensational beauty, high-mountain charm, and easy access to hundreds of fabulous hiking trails, it is no surprise that we chose Cortina as our last stop on our family hiking trip this past July.

I discovered the lure of Cortina last year when I went on a hiking trip with my Dad in early May just three months after a total hip replacement. Unfortunately, the timing was all wrong. There was still thick, fluffy snow coating the high mountain trails, almost the entire town had shut down after ski season and would not reopen until June, and my physical recovery and stamina from a full-blown surgery made hiking anything longer than three hours impossible. But I went on the trip, and I fell in love with the place, promising I’d come back again with my family.

Fast forward fourteen months later, I was back with a new lease on my athletic life and my desire to explore the high alpine, challenging trails that I could only dream of the year before. Over the week, we did plenty of awe-inspiring hikes with our favorite to date being the glorious hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi (near Alleghe) and the stunning loop hike around the Sassolungo near Val di Gardena Selva. Each hike was magical, special, and unique.

We had thought we had gotten all of the long, challenging hikes out of our system until we decided to do the Circuit hike around the Croda da Lago. Rated a moderate-hard hike, this 12.5 km/7.7 mile was a beast of a hike given the field of boulders and endless scree.  Yet the wild, rough, and dramatic scenery was worth every effort and sore knees. If you are an avid, experienced hiker, then this hike is for you.

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Sassolungo hike Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites, Italy
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Best Hikes in the Dolomites: The Sassolungo Group Loop near Val di Gardena Selva

The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our fourth hike of the trip – a hike around the Sassolungo Loop near Val di Gardena Selva. 

After three delightful days in Alleghe, we traveled an hour and fifteen minutes northeast to Selva di Val Gardena, a beautiful resort town at the foot of the Dolomites where we stayed two nights. It was much different than tiny Alleghe where there were few tourists. Instead, Selva di Val Gardena was bustling with tourists and its wide streets were lined with fancy, upscale restaurants and shops. The hiking trails around it were also quite crowded.  But, we all agreed that it was nice to mix it up.

The drive from Alleghe to Selva di Val Gardena was stunning yet the many hairpin turns made my stomach and head hurt as I am quite prone to motion sickness. It is worth a stop at the top of Sela Pass for incredible views of the surrounding Dolomites.  We arrived in town just in time for dinner and rest before another big hike the following morning.

The most popular hike in the area is the Sassolungo Group Loop, a 10.2-mile (16.4 km) loop trail that leads around the Sassolungo and the Sassopiatto rock formations. It is considered a challenging hike and takes roughly 6 hours depending on stops.

We began our hike at the Passo Sella, where we left our car at the car park and headed up into the low-laying clouds and fog blanketing the Sassopiatto. We climbed up the gravel road, hoping it was not going to rain, and set off clockwise towards the first of four rifguios.

The trail was extremely muddy after all of the June rain, and we were all relieved to have on good hiking boots and a pair of walking sticks. The mud made the first hour of the hike a bit more challenging but it also seemed to slow down and ward off the crowds.

Sassolungo hike Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites, Italy

Setting off on the Sassolungo trail

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Hike from Alleghe to Rifugio Sasso Bianco Italy
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Hiking in Dolomites: Hike from Alleghe to Rifugio Sasso Bianco

The Dolomites in Northern Italy afford some of the most breathtaking hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was the most hiking my two teenagers have ever done and was one of our most memorable family trips to date. Here is a review of our third hike of the trip when we were based in Alleghe. The hike to Rifugio Sasso Bianco. 

Our last hike in Alleghe was the awe-inspiring hike from the western side of Lago di Alleghe to the Rifugio Sasso Bianco.  This hike was on the other side of Alleghe and afforded spellbinding views of the town, its namesake lake, and the flank of Mount Civetta.  The hike was recommended by the helpful man working at the Alleghe Tourist Office in town, who sizing us up, recommended three hikes.

The first two hikes (one that is circular and passes by two dairy farms and the other to Lake Coldai and Tissi Rifugio) are both located at the top of the gondola at the Col dei Baldi and are quite popular and well-traveled. However, the last hike he recommended was not well known. It turned out to be one of those local treasures. It was not crowded (we saw under a dozen people in five hours), led us through two tiny hamlets, and prized us with stunning views of the town, the lake, and the mighty Mount Civetta across the way.  We were rewarded with a delicious hot lunch at the family-run Rifigio Blanco Sasso, a beautiful hut reachable only by foot.

On a clear day, the views at the foot of the Rifugio are known as some of the best in the Dolomites. Unfortunately, it was rather cloudy that day. Yet we all still adored this adventurous hike, and I highly recommend it for the lack of crowds, beauty, and beautiful views of the area.

Hike from Alleghe to Rifugio Sasso Bianco Italy

As you climb up, the views of Alleghe and its glorious lake are mystical.

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Coldai Lake, Dolomites, Italy
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Best Dolomites Hike in Alleghe: Hike to Lake Coldai and Rifugio Tissi around the Civetta

One of the best day hikes in the Dolomites is by far the hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi. The 6 hour roundtrip hike starts from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi. If you have one tough hike in you, this is the one to do. 

“I wish we could stay here forever” said my seventeen-year-old daughter as she stood overlooking a view seemingly out of a fairytale.

It was our second day hiking in the Dolomites, and we were on one of the most awe-inspiring hikes of our lives. A hike from high above the Italian village of Alleghe passing under the extraordinary towering face of the mighty Civetta.

Just three weeks ago, I was in urgent care with my daughter who had sprained her ankle while doing tricks on her new skateboard right before a big hiking trip. I could hardly believe that we were here, in the Dolomites preparing to do a fairly challenging hike. “But younger bodies heal so much faster” her doctor said during a check up examination before the trip. And he was right.

We began our hike from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi where we rewarded ourselves with homemade gnocchi before returning to Alleghe. On a clear day, the hike gifts some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dolomites and provides enough challenge to make it an incredibly rewarding, memorable experience.  If you have one hard hike in you, this is the one you should do.

Hike from Alleghe to Rifugio Tissi in Dolomites

My daughter unfazed by her sprained ankle, marveling up at the Civetta.

I had grown up hiking with my own parents and it was my hope that my teenagers would also grow to love it as much as me. While we started with short hikes when the kids were younger it took some time for them to both fully embrace it and go without complaints. Last summer, we did our first real hiking trip to Alaska as a family and it was a big success.

After proving that she could definitely out hike me during our trip last summer to Alaska, my daughter was on board for a hiking trip to Italy and especially was up for the challenge on day two with a longer hike. My son had already discovered his love for hiking a few years earlier after experiencing hiking with me and my father around Mont Blanc. So it was decided that we would do a big hike on our second day in the Dolomites.

We set off early in the morning catching the first gondola up to the top of Col dei Baldi. We learned from our hike the day before, that you can either take the gondola up two stops from Alleghe or drive to Pian di Pezzè, park and take the gondola up to Col dei Baldi. It was cheaper for our family to do it the latter way.

After exiting the gondola, you follow a wide gravel path straight until you reach an old abandoned stone building and see a path (path 556) to the right that zigzags up the side of the mountain en route to the first Rifugio Sonino al Coldai.  Many choose to do a shorter hike to the stunning Coldai Lake, a high alpine glacial lake. The roundtrip hike from Col dei Baldi to Coldai Lake and back takes roughly 3 hours and 15 minutes and is rated moderate. However, I highly recommend continuing to Rifugio Tissi for the out-of-this-world views of the Civetta’s northwestern flank. The hike there and back takes roughly 6-7 hours depending on pace and without stops (we did several along the way and enjoyed lunch at the Rifugio Tissi). It ranks as one of the best hikes I’ve done in years and is a must on a clear day.

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Above Alleghe: Our first hike in the Italian Dolomites

The magical spiraling towers of the Italian Dolomites afford some of the most spectacular scenery for hiking in the world. This summer, my family set off on a seven-day hiking trip through the Dolomites basing ourselves in three different places: Alleghe, Salva di Val Gardena and Cortina. We opted to do long day hikes as opposed to staying up in the rifugios (high mountain huts) so we could enjoy hot showers, delightful dinners, and the coziness of our own space where we could spend time together as a family versus sharing accommodations with a handful of fellow hikers. While I’ve done it both ways, for our family of four this trip strategy proved to work very well. And, the trip was one of our best family trips yet.  A trip that we will be sure to remember for years to come. 

We began our trip in the lovely Italian village of Alleghe, located roughly one hour and forty-five minutes north of Venice, Italy. Alleghe is a beautiful mountain resort that is known for its aquamarine lake and small-town vibe. Its handful of restaurants, shops, and accommodations are easily walkable and it never felt overcrowded like other popular mountain towns in the Dolomites.

We loved Alleghe as we felt like we had the entire place to ourselves, and saw very few tourists. It made our experience even that much better as we truly felt like we could connect with the locals which is my favorite way to travel.

Alleghe in the heart of the Dolomites.

Looking down on the Italian village of Alleghe in the heart of the Dolomites.

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The women of Panauti Homestay. Photo credit: Amir Shresthaa
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The Panauti Community Homestay: Meet the Pioneers behind Nepal’s Community Homestay Network

In the hills of Kathmandu Valley lies the ancient village of Panauti, renowned for its culture, traditions, and well-preserved Newari architecture. At the heart of the community is the Panauti Community Homestay a women-led initiative that started in 2012 and later became one of the founding members of the Community Homestay Network (CHN). Today CHN has spread to 36 communities throughout Nepal, creating hope, inspiration, and opportunity for rural communities worldwide.

Shila rose just before sunrise as the golden ray of light bathed the rice and potato fields outside her window in a brilliant ethereal light. The morning air was still, as Shila put on her slippers and tiptoed to her kitchen. She prepared a cup of masala tea, and a plate of flowers, colored rice, and sweets for her morning puja, an offering to the Hindu gods. She did not have time for her daily meditation this morning. Instead, she would be preparing for the arrival of her guests. 

Shila had to clean her house, collect the fresh vegetables for the upcoming meals, pick flowers for our garlands, and ready her attire, draping her crimson red saree over the couch to let the humid monsoon air unwrinkle the fabric. Soon she would meet with the other host “mamas” of the Panauti Community Homestay to prepare for our arrival. 

At the top of the foothills of the Kathmandu Valley, our group of adventurous travelers had just witnessed a mesmerizing Buddhist prayer service at the sacred Namo Buddha monastery and were preparing for our next, exhilarating experience: A 10 km bike ride down from the monastery’s Himalayan perch through the rural villages, potato fields, and stunning landscape to Panauti, a historic Nepali city renowned for its culture, beauty and mystique, where we would meet our homestay mothers. 

It had been fourteen years since my first trip to Nepal, a truly life-changing experience that launched my career as a writer and established myself as a lifelong wanderlust. Now in the prime years of my life, at 52 I wondered if another trip could be as transformative as the first. 

Over the next two days of my homestay, I’d learn to reconnect with my past self and develop deeper insight into what it means to be a strong, independent woman, all through the eyes of my host mother who not only opened up her home but also her heart, showing me a strength and compassion that transcends borders. 

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