What Is the Best Day Hike in Alleghe?

One of the best day hikes in the Dolomites is by far the hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi. The 6 hour roundtrip hike starts from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi. If you have one tough hike in you, this is the one to do. Note: There are two routes listed on AllTrails to Rifugio Tissi-ranging from a 5.8 miles hike with a 3,435 feet elevation gain to Pian de Pezze(opens in new tab) or an even more demanding option for a 12-4 mile loop trek. We took the gondola up to Pian di Pezze and started our hike there, which took us about 6-7 hours round trip. 

Pian di Pezzè – Lago di Coldai – Rifugio Tissi

“I wish we could stay here forever” said my seventeen-year-old daughter as she stood overlooking a view seemingly out of a fairytale.

It was our second day hiking in the Dolomites, and we were on one of the most awe-inspiring hikes of our lives. A hike from high above the Italian village of Alleghe passing under the extraordinary towering face of the mighty Civetta.

Just three weeks ago, I was in urgent care with my daughter who had sprained her ankle while doing tricks on her new skateboard right before a big hiking trip. I could hardly believe that we were here, in the Dolomites preparing to do a fairly challenging hike. “But younger bodies heal so much faster” her doctor said during a check up examination before the trip. And he was right.

We began our hike from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi where we rewarded ourselves with homemade gnocchi before returning to Alleghe. On a clear day, the hike gifts some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dolomites and provides enough challenge to make it an incredibly rewarding, memorable experience.  If you have one hard hike in you, this is the one you should do.

I had grown up hiking with my own parents and it was my hope that my teenagers would also grow to love it as much as me. While we started with short hikes when the kids were younger it took some time for them to both fully embrace it and go without complaints. Last summer, we did our first real hiking trip to Alaska as a family and it was a big success.

After proving that she could definitely out hike me during our trip last summer to Alaska, my daughter was on board for a hiking trip to Italy and especially was up for the challenge on day two with a longer hike. My son had already discovered his love for hiking a few years earlier after experiencing hiking with me and my father around Mont Blanc.(opens in new tab) So it was decided that we would do a big hike on our second day in the Dolomites.

Getting There: Gondola, Parking, and Trail Start

We set off early in the morning catching the first gondola up to the top of Col dei Baldi. We learned from our hike the day before,(opens in new tab) that you can either take the gondola up two stops from Alleghe or drive to Pian di Pezzè, park and take the gondola up to Col dei Baldi. It was cheaper for our family to do it the later way.

There are two ways to access the gondola:

Once at Col del Baldi  (1922 m / 6300 ft), follow a wide gravel path straight until you reach an old abandoned stone building and see a path (path 556) to the right that zigzags up the side of the mountain en route to the first Rifugio Sonino al Coldai.  Many choose to do a shorter hike to the stunning Coldai Lake, a high alpine glacial lake. The roundtrip hike from Col dei Baldi to Coldai Lake and back(opens in new tab) takes roughly 3 hours and 15 minutes and is rated moderate. However, I highly recommend continuing to Rifugio Tissi for the out-of-this-world views of the Civetta’s northwestern flank. The hike there and back takes roughly 6-7 hours depending on pace and without stops (we did several along the way and enjoyed lunch at the Rifugio Tissi). It ranks as one of the best hikes I’ve done in years and is a must on a clear day.

The Trail: Col dei Baldi to Rifugio Sonino al Coldai

As we set out on our hike, the skies grew cloudy and I was worried we would not have the promised views I’d read so much about. The trail heading up to the rifugio follows a zigzag path rising from 1922 meters (6300 feet) to 2132 meters (6995 feet) and takes approximately one hour and fifteen minutes until you arrive. The lovely Sonino al Coldai Rifugio is perched just before the prized Coldai Lake. It is a great place to stop to grab a quick coffee or use the restroom if need be. They also have several homemade grappas in any flavor you desire to test out if you are there for the night.

Lake Coldai (Lago Coldai): The Glacial Lake Worth Every Step

After the rifugio, you continue along path number 560 heading west as it climbs up and then descends into a shallow cirque where the stunning Coldai Lake sits in all its glory.  Many people bring a picnic lunch and eat here but we decided to snap a few photos and continue hiking for lunch at the Rifugio Tissi.

Traversing the Northwestern Flank of the Civetta

The trail is part of Alta Via 1 and as you leave the lake, you come across many of the serious through hikers doing part or all of the Alta Via. The terrain becomes more challenging and steep as you traverse the trail following the western face of the Civetta.

This part of the hike takes roughly one hour and 30 minutes until you reach path 560 that ascends up to Rifugio Tissi (2250 m). It can be quite slippery at times on the scree so be sure to have a solid pair of hiking poles and good boots. It also is tiring but worth the glorious views especially if the clouds peel away.

Once you pass the Civetta, you can catch a glimpse of the rest of the tiring hike up to Rifugio Tissi. It is the last big push you will have to make before being rewarded with a delicious homemade meal.

 

 

 

Arriving at Rifugio Tissi: Gnocchi, Wine, and a View That Earns Its Name

One of my favorite things about this kind of hiking is the people you meet along the way. A certain kind of camaraderie and friendship develops making the experience all the better. We met an Italian hiker who hiked the last hour with us and shared lunch together at the rifugio.

Famished we were delighted to enjoy a plate of freshly made gnocchi with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, combined with a glass of red wine for me and beers for the guys. The ambiance inside the rifugio was jovial as lots of hikers from around the world were also there enjoying the beauty of the place and community. I felt so happy to share such a special passion of mine with my kids and even happier knowing that they enjoyed the experience as much as me.

Several friends had asked how on earth I convinced two teenagers to do such a demanding trip with so much hiking. I replied that it was quite easy. I didn’t have to do a thing. Just like me, they had grown up hiking and having a deep love and respect for the healing power of the outdoors.

The Hike Back to Alleghe

The hike back felt harder than the hike there but perhaps it was because we were all exhausted. Yet overall, it was worth the sore knees and fatigue as it was one of most memorable hikes we have done together as a family. A priceless gift.

If you go:

Here is a map of the route we followed (highlighted in yellow). It took approximately 7 hours not including stops to eat lunch and rest.

I am a huge fan of AllTrails and upgraded my app to the paid subscription while we were on our trip. It really helped when we were unsure of which way to follow the trail despite the relatively good signs. There are a few variations of this hike that we found on AllTrails but overall we are glad we took it the way we did.

If you want to spend the night at one of the rifugios, book well in advance during peak season. Rifugio booking links:

Author’s note: This post is entirely human-written. The FAQs below are AI-assisted using my content and edited by me.

How This Hike Compares to Other Alleghe Day Hikes

Alleghe sits at the foot of the Civetta massif and is a basecamp for several excellent day hikes, ranging from a gentle lakeside stroll to a serious alpine circuit. The two most popular routes above Alleghe both start from Col dei Baldi and share the first section of trail:

Both hikes share the same gondola access from Alleghe or Pian di Pezzè, so the decision really comes down to time, fitness, and weather. On a clear day, pushing on to Rifugio Tissi is absolutely worth the extra hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long is the hike to Rifugio Tissi from Alleghe?

The full hike from Col dei Baldi (reached by gondola from Alleghe) to Rifugio Tissi and back takes roughly 6-7 hours at a moderate pace, not counting stops for lunch or photos. Our family spent approximately 7 hours total on the trail, including lunch at the rifugio and several rest stops along the way. The shorter Lake Coldai loop takes approximately 3 hours 15 minutes and is rated moderate.

How do you get to the start of the Coldai Lake hike from Alleghe?

Take the gondola from Alleghe village (two stops) or drive to Pian di Pezzè, park, and take the gondola one stop up to Col dei Baldi at 1922 m (6300 ft). The Pian di Pezzè option was cheaper for our family and is worth considering if you are traveling with a group. From Col dei Baldi, follow the wide gravel path to path 556, which zigzags up toward Rifugio Sonino al Coldai and Lake Coldai.

What trail numbers do you follow on the Alleghe to Rifugio Tissi hike?

From Col dei Baldi, follow path 556 up to Rifugio Sonino al Coldai and Lake Coldai. After the lake, switch to path 560 heading west along the Civetta’s flank. Path 560 then ascends to Rifugio Tissi at 2250 m. The route is also part of the Alta Via 1 long-distance trail, so you will encounter serious through hikers doing part or all of the Alta Via on the upper section.

Is the hike to Rifugio Tissi difficult?

Yes, the full circuit to Rifugio Tissi is strenuous. The trail includes a scree traverse along the Civetta’s western face that can be slippery, and the final ascent to the rifugio at 2250 m (7380 ft) is genuinely tiring. Hiking poles and sturdy boots with ankle support are strongly recommended. There may also be snow patches on the upper trail even in July. The shorter Lake Coldai loop is rated moderate and suits a wider range of fitness levels.

Can you eat at Rifugio Tissi?

Yes. Rifugio Tissi serves homemade meals to day hikers, no overnight stay required. We enjoyed freshly made gnocchi with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, along with a glass of red wine and beers for the rest of the group. The atmosphere inside is lively and welcoming, with hikers from around the world gathered together after a hard day on the trail. It is a proper sit-down meal and very much worth the effort to get there.

Can you stay overnight at Rifugio Tissi or Rifugio Sonino al Coldai?

Yes, both rifugios offer overnight stays. Book well in advance during peak season (July and August), as beds fill up fast. Rifugio Sonino al Coldai also stocks a selection of homemade grappas in various flavors, making it a particularly enjoyable place to spend the night. Booking links for both rifugios can be found in the “If You Go” section of this article.

Should I take the gondola from Alleghe village or drive to Pian di Pezzè?

If you are traveling as a family or small group, driving to Pian di Pezzè and taking the gondola(opens in new tab) one stop up to Col dei Baldi is likely to be the cheaper option. Taking the gondola the full two stops from Alleghe village is more convenient if you do not have a car or prefer not to drive the mountain road. Either way, you arrive at Col dei Baldi at 1922 m and follow the same trail from there.

When is the best time of year to do this hike?

Summer (late June through September) is the main hiking season in the Dolomites and the best window for this route. We hiked in July and there were still small snow patches on the upper trail, which were manageable and even fun to navigate. Start as early in the morning as possible to maximize your chances of clear skies, since afternoon thunderstorms are common in the mountains during summer.