Perhaps the most picturesque place in all of Marseille is the lovely “Le Panier” district. One of the oldest parts of town founded by the Greeks over 2,600 years ago, Le Panier is known for her charming narrow, paved streets and steps that curve up and down the quaint hillside north of Marseille’s Vieux Port.
The enchanting Le Panier, Marseille’s Old Town
One of the highlights of any trip to Cassis is a must-see tour of the spectacular Calanques. Like Norway’s steep-cliff fjords, the jagged creamy-white calanques dotting the Mediterranean coast of Provence are a sight to see.
Following our delicious lunch of Salade au Chèvre Chaud paired with tart, fruity Vin de Cassis (one of the best wines in all of Provence) at an outdoor cafe along the lovely harbor of Cassis, it was on to our tour of the world-famous Calanques. The Calanques are steep-walled inlets that have developed through time along the Mediterranean coast. The largest, most popular stretch of calanques lies between the coast of Marseille and Cassis. This range stretches for 20 kilometers long and a narrow four kilometers wide. Arguably the most beautiful stretch as well, the wide, rugged and gorgeous “Massif des Calanques” is made primarily of creamy white limestone.
It is very easy to get a tour of one of Provencal France’s most spectacular sites. Alongside the harbor is a variety of tour boats that will take you out to anywhere from three to nine or more calanques. We chose the “Circuit Exploration: 5 Calanques” which was a 65-minute tour of the five top calanques (Port Miou, Port Pin, En Vau, l”Oule and Devenson).
Cassis is a jumping off point to the calanques. Many boats offer tours from the harbor to the calanques.
“Qu’a vist Paris e noun Cassis a ren vist.”
“He who has seen Paris and who has not seen Cassis can say … I have seen nothing.” Frédéric Mistral (1830 – 1914)
I had taken the short train ride from Marseille to Cassis, a small seaside fishing village, over twenty years ago. It was a sunny morning when we boarded the train and hopped off at the St. Charles train station, a 2-3 kilometer walk to town. If I close my eyes, I can picture the lush verdant greenery of the rugged countryside of Provence, the brilliant blue seaside and the reddish-orange terra cotta tiles of the rooftops. I also remember the beautifully colored buildings and boats of Cassis and how magical a place I had found. Would her colorful, playful buildings still dance atop the turquoise sea?
The spectacular Harbor at Cassis
Like many places in the world, I never believed it would take me twenty years to get back. But sometimes life gets in the way and keeps you busy. As I road the bus from Marseille to Cassis, over twenty years later with my sister and mother, I wondered and desperately hoped, “Would it be the same”?
So often memories are nostalgic for a reason. Things change. Places get discovered and sadly get spoiled. Would Cassis have the same fate as so many other beautiful places in Europe? Would it be lined with tacky t-shirt and souvenir shops taking all of her beloved charm away? Would it be overcome with tourists pushing and shoving for a table at an outdoor cafe? I would have to wait and see.
Perched high above the city of Marseille lies the crowned jewel The Notre Dame de la Garde which affords the most spectacular 360 degree view that can be found in all of Provence. Founded on the site of a small chapel built in 1214 overlooking Le Vieux Port of Marseille, the Notre Dame de la Garde is the most majestic basilica in the region and can be seen standing prominently from nearly every street in the city. Literally translated as “Our Lady of the Guard“, “La Bonne Mère” or “Good mother” as she is lovely called, is as symbolic to Marseille as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. Locals have believed for centuries that she watches over the city and protects its inhabitants.
Dramatic view of the Notre Dame de la Garde which dominates over the city of Marseille.
At the end of April, we traveled via TGV south from Paris to the Mediterranean town, Marseille. The second largest and oldest city in France, Marseille has experienced a dramatic rebirth from a rather banal port city to a vibrant, cultural mecca in line with any of Europe’s major cosmopolitan cities.
Room with a view of Vieux Port and Notre Dame de la Garde
I was curious to see Marseille again as it had been a very long time. Twenty years ago I wanted to faire un stage thus spent the summer as an intern at a French business after graduating from university. I honestly do not have many fond memories of my time there. I loved the region of Provence surrounding Marseille yet found the city to be dirty, uninspiring and relatively bland. After hearing so much fanfare about Marseille and what a magnificent city it has become, I decided to give it another whirl and I was not the slightest bit disappointed in what I found.
In Marseille, I found a pell mell of culture and electricity that other cities would die to have just a sliver of. In a nutshell, Marseille had come to life with a pizzazz and heartbeat that pulsates the city like a radiant shower of gold.
The lovely sailboats of the Vieux Port.
No trip to Paris would ever be complete without a visit to the beloved Cathédrale de Notre-Dame. Built between 1163 and 1345 the Notre Dame has withstood centuries of history and is one of the most iconic cathedrals in the world. Not only is the Notre Dame a pure masterpiece of French Gothic architecture, it has also remained the city’s heart and soul for centuries of dynamic struggle and change.
April in Paris is one of those quintessential travel experiences that any travel lover should experience. As springtime hits Paris, this sensationally romantic and beautiful city comes to life. The chairs at the street cafes are full with people, the flowers are blooming leaving a fragrance in the air, and the world of Paris comes to life with an unmatched energy that can’t be found anywhere in the world. In a nutshell, April in Paris is utterly fantastic.
An added bonus of going in April or even early May is that the hordes of tourists haven’t yet arrived. They wait until summer. That means fewer lines, more free seats at the outdoor cafes, and prime people-watching of mostly Parisians. It also allows for great access to many of Paris’ amazing sites with less hassle and more chance at getting some great photos without having to elbow someone for the shot.
One of my absolute favorite places in Paris is the lovely, picturesque Montmartre. Once a place of artistic gathering of the brilliant minds of Van Gogh, Renoir, Picasso and Dali, today Montmartre is a major tourist attraction that still continues to captivate the soul with its unique beauty, charm and bohemian feel.
A walk up to Montmartre through its winding cobblestone streets with expansive views of Paris is the best way to explore this area. However, you can also head straight up via a set of steep stairs or a funnicular to the creamy white Sacré Cœur and Montmartre as well. Once on top, you have a spectacular view of Paris in all her glory. You can take a walk inside the gorgeous Basilique du Sacré Cœur (constructed in 1919), and then walk around the Place du Tetre which has local artists and goods for sale. There are numerous restaurants, outdoor cafes and shops to keep you entertained as well as many little streets to get lost in. You could spend hours exploring Montmartre and being seduced by her charm. Unfortunately for us, it was raining thus we had to eat inside and my photos didn’t turn out as well as expected.
Just when we reached the bottom of Montmartre, the skies began to clear up illuminating Montmartre in all her loveliness.
One cannot go to Paris without taking a stroll by all her beloved monuments. There are so many spectacular things to see ranging from the metallic Eiffel Tower, to the numerous classic sculptures and fountains which line the parks, the gorgeously ornate churches and buildings, and of course the pièce de résistance, the Arc de Triomphe.
Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 as a symbol of triumph and victory of his army, the Arc de Triomphe is perhaps one of Paris’ most important monuments. Many armies have walked beneath the arch after claiming victory. Inside the arch are hundreds of names of the generals who fought and died in Napoleon’s wars. There is also The Tomb of the Unknown Solider which is illuminated by an eternal fire. All this at the center of an enormous Parisien-style roundabout in which twelve grand boulevards come together creates a magnificent place albeit a traffic jam as well. But it is definitely worth a visit as its 284 stairs up to the top of the arch afford a spectacular view of Paris’ at her best.
Our first full day in Paris was spent walking. I find walking to be the best way of exploring a city old or new. I had spent six months living in Paris over twenty years ago and have been fortunate to have been back several times since then. It is a city I know and love yet there is always something new to discover and surprise. Perhaps that is why I find Paris to be one of the most magnificent, breathtaking cities in the world. You can never ever tire of looking at her gorgeous architecture, pristine parks, spectacular sculptures and delightful shops and outdoor cafes. It is a city that will never cease to captivate and stir my soul.
Here are some photos from the morning of our walk starting in the Marais and walking through the Jardin des Tuileries past the world-famous Louvre and up the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe. This was the same walk I took many years ago as an impressionable 13-year-old girl on the first time I’d ever seen Paris. I will never forget singing the lyrics of Aux Champs-Élysées…a song I learned in French class, and making a promise to myself that I would someday live in this amazing city. That promise was kept and fulfilled eight years after I laid eyes on Paris.
A walk through Paris….starting near the Louvre
This week’s photo challenge happens to be a favorite of mine: Pattern. I adore the patterns of the brilliant rusty orange-colored tiled rooftop found in homes throughout the world. Two places in particular have my favorite styles: Southern France and Antigua, Guatemala. Here is a sample of some of the dynamic patterned rooftops I’ve captured throughout my travels.
Antigua, Guatemala
“It is impossible to live without failing at something – unless you live so cautiously that you might as well not have lived at all, in which case you have failed by default”. – J.K. Rowling
This week has been a bit hairy so I thought I’d post some of my favorite photos of mountains I’ve hiked as they always calm my soul. Photos above from France, Nepal and Guatemala. This fall, I will be adding Bolivia to my list of great hikes.
Stay tuned…
