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A Maya Community Homestay in Ek’ Balam: Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

The recent opening of the Maya Train through the heart of Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula has been greeted with much criticism around the world. However, a small, dedicated alliance of indigenous and local community-led tourism groups are hoping that the opening a new train line will help keep their traditions, culture and community alive

Roughly 127 km north of the white sandy beaches and luxurious resorts of Tulum lies the Maya community of Ek’ Balam.  Founded in the late 1970s the people of Ek’ Balam continue to live as their ancestors have for centuries, following their indigenous traditions and culture centered around farming the milpa (cornfield), making traditional handicrafts, and cooking. Its scattering of homes built alongside a dusty, dirt road, are adorned with colorful sabanas (sheets) as makeshift doors allowing the smoke generated from cooking their daily meals over a wood-burning stove inside their house to easily escape. It is a community where the locals prefer to sleep tucked inside a hand-woven hammock instead of a store-bought bed. A practice they learn and perfect as babies.

Ek' Balam community, Yucatan, MexicoEntering the community of Ek’ Balam, the homes are adorned with beautiful, colorful sabanas and handwoven hammocks.

Yet for what Ek’ Balam lacks in luxuries, they make up with a rich culture rooted around a warm and welcoming community that would only be a small dot on the tourist map if it wasn’t for the nearby ancient Maya ruin with the same name.

Ek’ Balam started introducing community-based tourism ten years ago to earn additional income and showcase and preserve their indigenous culture for generations to come. Their community tourism cooperative the Unajil Ek Balam Community Association is part of  Co’ox Mayab, a social enterprise that offers similar initiatives throughout the region.

While many similar indigenous-led community tourism projects shut down during the pandemic, Ek’ Balam survived. Located not far from one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos  (magical towns), Valladolid, Ek’ Balam is hoping for an increase in visitors and desperately needed infrastructure that the new Maya train stop and Visitor Center opening this summer in nearby Valladolid will bring.

Ek' Balam community, Yucatan, Mexico Some of the lovely local ladies of the community of Ek’ Balam

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Swayambhunath Kathmandu Nepal
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A Trip back to where it all began: Nepal

Nepal is an incredibly special place for me. I was there 14 years ago on a life-changing trek with my dad. Both of us were celebrating milestone birthdays, and we set out to hike the Annapurna Trek with just a guide and a porter who became dear friends. This experience inspired me to start my blog, Thirdeyemom, and set me on the path of writing about sustainable, impactful travel for years to come.

In May, I returned to Nepal with Community Homestay Network (CHN) for a whirlwind trip exploring the rural communities of Kathmandu Valley for a week-long trip. During the week, I stayed with local families at two different community homestays and captured an intimate glimpse of local life in Nepal. It was truly amazing, and I am excited to share more stories in the coming weeks here on my blog and in other publications.  (ICYM: I shared a lot of reels on Instagram during my trip. Check them out here). 

Before the press trip began, I had a day on my own to revisit some of the special places in Kathmandu. I hired a local guide, named Dhiroj,  through Community Homestay, and did an afternoon tour of three top sacred sights: Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, and Kathmandu Durbar Square. While I’d been to Swayambhunath and Kathmandu Durbar Square on my first visit to Nepal 14 years ago, I had never been to the sacred religious site of Pashupatinath. I was in for a delightful spiritual surprise and a warm welcome back to the beauty of Nepal’s people, culture, religions, traditions, and rituals.

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Cenote Yokdzonot in Mexico’s Yucatán
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A Maya Cooking Class and Visit to the Cenote Yokdzonot in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

Community-Based Tourism: A Maya Cooking Class and Visit to the Cenote Yokdzonot in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

This is the third post in a series on my trip with RISE Travel Institute. This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical.

During the week-long trip, RISE Travel Institute participants visited four community-led tourism initiatives showcasing the rich traditions, culture, history, and vibrancy of local and Indigenous communities. We also learned about the important and beautiful biodiversity of the region.

RISE travelers got to see the benefits firsthand of sustainable, community-based tourism (CBT). If done correctly, CBT can provide sustainable tourism income, conservation, and preservation of precious ecosystems and cultures to communities that are often left off the typical tourism map while affording travelers with some of the richest, most memorable experiences of a trip.

Yokdzonot, the Yucatán Peninsula

After a morning tour by a local guide at Chichén Itzá, we spent the afternoon visiting Yokdzonot, a cenote and ecotourism project managed by a local women’s cooperative where we enjoyed a Yucatecan cooking class and a refreshing swim in crystal clear waters of this stunning cenote.

The Yokdzonot Cenote, which means “over the cenote” in the Mayan language, is a cenote of 40 meters in diameter and 45 meters deep which is located within a local Maya community of the same name.  The town is less than 20 km from the popular, well-visited archaeological site of Chichén Itzá, which gives the community a constant flow of visitors allowing the cooperative, called Zaaz Koolen Haa, to develop sustainable, community-based tourism initiatives.

The town was established in 1932 by a group of workers who constructed the first railroad in the region and used the cenote as a natural water source. Once piped water arrived in the town, the cenote was abandoned and tragically became a garbage dump that remained for decades.

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Community-Based Tourism: Isla Columpios and Chuburná in the heart of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

Community Tour of Isla Columpios and Chuburná by local fishermen in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

This is the second post in a series on my trip with RISE Travel Institute. This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical.

During the week-long trip, RISE Travel Institute participants visited four community-led tourism initiatives showcasing the rich traditions, culture, history, and vibrancy of local and Indigenous communities. We also learned about the important and beautiful biodiversity of the region.

RISE travelers got to see the benefits firsthand of sustainable, community-based tourism (CBT). If done correctly, CBT can provide sustainable tourism income, conservation, and preservation of precious ecosystems and cultures to communities that are often left off the typical tourism map while affording travelers with some of the richest, most memorable experiences of a trip.

Chuburná

On the second day in the Yucatán, we set off to the tranquil fishing village of Chuburná located roughly 40 minutes south of Mérida near the town of Progreso, the Yucatán’s main port and the launching off point to the stunning yet relatively unknown (to tourists) Isla Columpios.

This rich mangrove ecosystem and group of small islands and sand banks on the coast were formed after the devastation of Hurricane Gilberto in 1986. The hurricane wiped out all the infrastructure and it took the community over 15 years to rebuild and recover, working with community leaders and local government to develop sustainable fishing practices and community-based tourism.

Today, the area is managed by four groups of fishermen and community leaders who work together as a cooperative to manage this rich ecosystem and ecotourism project. The cooperative ensures loyal competition among the fisherman including price regulation and effective conservation and management of this delicate ecosystem.

Community Tour of Isla Columpios and Chuburná Yucatan, Mexico

Leaving the port

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Two Days in Mérida, Mexico: The Heart of the Maya Yucatán

Two Days in Mérida, Mexico: The Heart of the Maya Yucatán

Those who follow my blog know how much I value sustainable and responsible travel. For the past 14 years, I have worked hard to share stories that highlight ways that travelers can travel responsibly and have worked with many different organizations that work to educate, inspire, and advocate for sustainable travel. One such organization is RISE Travel Institute, a nonprofit organization with the mission to create a more just and equitable world through travel education.

Founded by Dr. Vincie Ho, RISE works to educate travelers, tourism professionals, and college students about critical issues regarding responsible, impactful, sustainable, and ethical travel through their online courses and their Flagship Certificate program. I have worked with RISE Travel Institute as a volunteer for the past few years and am empowered by the incredible work this volunteer-led organization is doing to make an impact.

This past February, I joined students and alumni of the RISE Flagship Program joined RISE Travel Institute for the RISE Experiential Journey (EJ) trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula. Partnering with Etnica Travel, RISE’s annual Experiential Journey (EJ) was an opportunity to explore what it means to travel in a way that is Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical. The framework of the trip was curated by Etnica Travel and designed with the mission of RISE in mind.  During the week-long visit to the Yucatán, we experienced firsthand the rich local and indigenous culture far beyond the beaches and resorts of Cancún, Tulum, and Playa del Carmen. It was an incredible trip on so many levels where each one of us learned a great deal about the value, importance, and impact that can be made through Responsible, Impactful, Sustainable, and Ethical (RISE) travel.

Members of our group in Mérida during a city tour.

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Harding Ice Field Trail Seward Alaska
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Hiking to the end of the trail at the Harding Icefield in Seward, Alaska

Perhaps one of the most spectacular day hikes of all time is the hike up Exit Glacier to the Harding Ice Field located in Seward, Alaska on the breathtaking Kenai Peninsula. Stretching as far as the eye can see for over 700 square miles, the Harding Icefield is one of the four major ice caps in the United States and is the crown jewel of the Kenai Fjords National Park.

To be able to hike to its edge and see the massive sheet of sparkling ice dating back to the last major Ice Age emotionally and physically takes your breath away, and is an unforgettable experience. It is listed as a demanding, strenuous hike but in my opinion, is worth the sore knees and racing heartbeat to receive such an incredible gift at the end.

The 8.2-mile round trip Harding Icefield Trail is a spectacular day hike leaving from the Exit Glacier Area. Starting on the valley floor, the trail winds through cottonwood and alder forests, passes though heather-filled meadows and ultimately climbs well above tree line to a breath-taking view of the Icefield. The top of the trail is a window to past ice ages – a horizon of ice and snow that stretches as far as the eye can see, broken only by an occasional nunatak, or lonely peak.

-US National Parks

Harding Ice Field Trail Seward Alaska

My 16-year-old daughter looking out at the icefield in awe and wonder.

 

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Best Day Hikes in Kachemak Bay State Park: Grewingk Glacier

Hiking Glacier Lake Trail in the stunning Kachemak Bay State Park in Homer, Alaska is not for the faint at heart. While the hike itself is easy and the views are serendipitously surreal, remember that you are in the wild. Be prepared for seeing a lot of fresh bear poops. (We counted 12 !). The remoteness of the park. and getting there is half of the adventure, making this day hike one of the best in the area.

 

We rose a little past seven at our glorious Airbnb rental in Homer, Alaska with a disappointing layer of fog blanketing Kachemak Bay. Just the night before, we had clear skies and watched the late evening sun cast a magical spell of pinks, purples, and blues on the snowcapped peaks across the bay. We desperately hoped that the clouds would lift as the day went by yet knew that weather in this part of the world was always a gamble.

We gathered our rain gear and backpacks for the day and made sure to toss in a can of bear spray borrowed from our gracious Airbnb host who never leaves home without it. We had been in Alaska for three days and had yet to see a bear, however, had heard many stories already about recent bear sightings and encounters along the trails. The last thing I wanted to do was run into a mother bear with cubs and be empty-handed.

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Flattop Mountain, Anchorage, Alaska
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Flattop Mountain: Anchorage Alaska’s ultimate day hike

Located only 15 miles outside of Anchorage in the Chugach State Park lies Alaska’s most quintessential day hike, the three-mile roundtrip hike from Glen Lake Trailhead to Flattop Mountain. Known as the most climbed mountain in Alaska, Flattop Mountain offers a little something special for all: A close connection with nature, an unexpected wildlife sighting, fantastic views, and a great workout from this relatively steep and somewhat challenging hike. 

Welcome to Alaska!

This past August, we took a ten-day family trip to one of the United States’ most northwestern states, Alaska. Despite my love of mountainous terrain, I had never been to Alaska and was extremely excited to visit the wild, rugged, raw wilderness of this remote state. It did not disappoint. Alaska lives up to its reputation of harboring some of the US’ most pristine, untouched nature, and plenty of opportunities to explore it.

Flying to Anchorage from Minneapolis brought us over the vast plains of the northern United States, into Canada across the Canadian Rockies, Alberta, British Columbia, and finally into the upper reaches of Alaska, tucked away in the northwestern corner of North America. The thrilling views over the last hour of our five-hour flight inspired me to plan out our first hike of the trip. A short two-hour roundtrip hike to the top of Anchorage’s famed Flattop Mountain.

Anchorage: An urban city with one foot out the door into the wild

The best thing about Anchorage is how easy it is to quickly get out of the city and into the wilderness. With the breathtaking Chugach State Park less than a half hour away, there are countless opportunities to get outside in nature and see wildlife.

One of the most popular day hikes in Alaska to the summit of Flattop Mountain is only a 15-minute drive away. With its stunning 360 views of the Cook Inlet and Anchorage Bowl, this steep and challenging hike is a must-do for any visitors to Anchorage.

Flattop Mountain Anchorage, Alaska

The end of the hike to the summit is rather hairy with lots of loose rock but the views are worth the effort

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View from the terrace at Los Tamarindos, Los Cabos, Mexico
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Enrique Silva: Pioneer of the farm-to-table movement in Los Cabos dreams big

Enrique Silva’s passion and devotion to authentic, Mexican farm-to-table cuisine and sustainable agriculture in the heart of Los Cabos, Mexico is keeping traditions and community alive  

Tucked away behind the historic, artsy town of San José del Cabo lies the farmland community of Animas Bajas. There along a dry riverbed is some of the most fertile land in all of Los Cabos, Mexico, and is home to a small handful of organic farms and farm-to-table restaurants including Los Tamarindos. Los Tamarindos remains one of the only ventures that is Mexican-owned and operated.

For the past 28 years, Enrique Silva, chef and owner of Los Tamarindos has worn many hats. Arriving in Los Cabos with a degree in agricultural engineering and a knack for selling Sonoran beef to high-end restaurants, Silva never would have imagined he would become one of the leading chefs, entrepreneurs, and visionaries in Los Cabos, Mexico.

“I came to Los Cabos in 1990,” Silva told me during a conversation we shared together at his organic farm this past March. “I had started out selling beef to the restaurants around the Corridor and Los Cabos, never imagining that I’d be in charge of so many projects today. I ended up becoming a chef almost by accident” Silva continued with a charismatic grin. “And soon, I will be launching a new community center of workshops open to the public.  Perhaps this will be Silva’s greatest feat yet.

As Los Cabos is faced with the challenges of over-tourism, over-development, and climate change, Silva remains the only farm-to-table restaurant and property that is fully Mexican-owned and positioned to keep culture alive and protect the environment. To combat climate change, Silva is changing the future of farming in the community as he moves from sustainable to regenerative agriculture over the coming years. The fall opening of Silva’s new community center (6 specialized workshops hosting classes and shops) will continue to cement Silva’s focus on community and keeping long-held traditions, culture, and knowledge alive.

Chef Enrique Silva of Los Tamarindos, Los Cabos, Mexico

Chef Enrique Silva of Los Tamarindos at his farm-to-table restaurant in Los Cabos, Mexico

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Dharma Expeditions Los Cabos, Mexico
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How a Cactus Cooking Class is helping preserve Los Cabos’ last rancheros

Danny Perez, the founder of Dharma Expeditions, is on a mission to bring sustainable tourism to threatened indigenous Ranchero Californio communities off the tourist map in Los Cabos by providing cactus cooking classes for travelers

Local tour guide Danny Perez was out rock climbing one day along the outskirts of the vast UNESCO-protected Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve when he stumbled upon something special. There in the middle of the desert in one of Baja’s most beautiful but least explored places outside of Los Cabos, he found El Barranco, a traditional rancho (ranch) where the Ranchero Californio people continue to live and farm their land in one of the harshest environments in Mexico as their indigenous ancestors have for centuries.

Stunned, Danny stopped to chat with the owners and learned that today there are only 102 ranchos left in all of Los Cabos. As an experienced adventure tour guide in Los Cabos for 15 years, Perez hatched the idea to launch Dharma Expeditions, his grassroots tourism program.

“The beginnings were very humble” Danny confessed. “I basically had to build everything from scratch. The kitchen, the wood-burning stove (which is made from a recycled oil drum), and the bathroom for guests. It has all been a labor of love in the hope that my tours help keep this amazing community and culture alive” Danny concluded.

Four years later, his program works with five ranchos in the area bringing tourists for a one-of-a-kind indigenous nopales cactus taco cooking class. Not only does Danny connect travelers with a rare glimpse into indigenous life and culture, but the tours also provide income for the rancho families in the hope of keeping their community, culture, and heritage alive. Dharma is one of the only outfitters who work with the rarely visited Ranchero California communities in Los Cabos.

The rancheros’ traditional way of life and culture is being threatened by climate change, mass tourism, over-development, and commercialization of Los Cabos. In the past year alone, tourism and housing prices have exploded making Los Cabos the most expensive destination in all of Mexico and pushing the local community out. A new resort is also being built right outside of El Barranco’s property line threatening to push them out. “This is part of the reason why I launched our cactus cooking tours,” said Danny. “I am worried that the ranchero community will soon be gone”.

Dharma Expeditions Los Cabos, Mexico

Rita Garcia and her daughter at the family ranch

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The most magnificent hike in Bhutan: The Tiger’s Nest

It was over a decade ago that I first saw the famous image of the striking Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Bhutan that captured my attention. I was paging through a National Geographic Traveler magazine and there it was, the iconic Taktshang Goemba, more commonly known as the ‘Tiger’s Nest Monastery’ astoundingly perched on a sheer cliff face 900 meters (2,950 feet) above the Paro Valley. The image took my breath away and I knew someday I’d have to hike up to see it for myself. Fast forward to December 2022 and there I was in Bhutan, at the foot of Tiger’s Nest finally able to realize my dream.

Per my guide Singay, Tiger’s Nest is astonishing. When I asked why, he replied, “Sometimes words are better left unsaid. You have to see it for yourself.” 

The Tiger’s Nest is undoubtedly Bhutan’s most famous sacred site and a must-see for anyone visiting Bhutan. Given its location (it is only 15 km northwest of Paro, home of Bhutan’s only international airport) the hike is generally done on the day before leaving the country. The monastery is only accessible on foot via a relatively strenuous one-and-a-half to two-hour hike up the mountainside, so it also was good to do after overcoming jet lag and doing some hiking to get my legs in shape.

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Traditional Bhutanese paper making
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Dezo: The Art of Traditional Paper making in Bhutan

Towards the end of my trip in Bhutan, we made a stop on the way back to Paro in Thimphu to visit a traditional dezo (paper-making) factory called the Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory.

Bhutan takes immense pride in its culture, history and traditions and the government has tried hard to keep the Kingdom’s artistic heritage alive through its art schools and community programs offering education in the centuries-old traditions of painting, weaving, woodwork and paper making. A visit to a workshop or factory producing these amazing handicrafts is a must for any traveler to Bhutan.

Traditional Bhutanese paper making

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