When I arrived in Port-au-Prince last Thursday morning I had no idea what to expect. Danica, who leads the blogger trips for Heart of Haiti, handed each one of us a leather-bound journal with a personal note. My friend Leticia, A Heart of Haiti veteran brought along her eleven-year-old daughter Emily. Inside Emily’s journal was the Haitian proverb: “Dèyè mòn gen mòn” which means “beyond the mountains, more mountains.” Danica informed young Emily that her goal of the trip was to figure out what this proverb meant. She also said that it had not one but many meanings.
Entering the memorial at the Hotel Montana in Port-au-Prince where 100 people died during the January 12, 2010 earthquake.
Sunday as I was going through my comments and notifications on my blog I saw a little note from WordPress congratulating me. It was my fourth year anniversary since I began my blog thirdeyemom. I looked at the little symbol and reflected for a moment. Wow. Four years! Part of me was surprised that four years have passed so incredibly rapidly, just like a blink of an eye. The other part of me was almost shocked that I haven’t been blogging longer. Regardless, I realized at that moment what a profound impact my blog has had on my life.
Beautiful handicraft items made by Heart of Haiti Photo credit: Heart of Haiti
Not only have I received immense enjoyment and satisfaction from sharing my journey online, I’ve met countless fellow bloggers and have made some extremely good friendships with like-minded people from blogging. What started out as a simple place for me to share my travels and views of the world, has brought me into an entirely new path of global advocacy. I have learned about issues impacting some of the world’s most neglected, left behind people and have used my voice to try to create change. I have traveled to New York, Washington DC, India and Ethiopia all thanks to my blog. And, tomorrow I am leaving for Haiti.
Looking back, little did I know that taking a leap of faith would bring me to where I am today. All those self-doubts have been cast aside. At 43, I finally feel like I know my place and journey in life. It took a lot of wrong turns, mistakes and bad choices but somehow serendipitously I ended up here. I am confident that if I keep plugging away, that only more doors will open and I will continue to follow the path of my dreams.
So what does my family think? Thankfully they wholeheartedly support me. I am often asked how I do it or sometimes even get the comments such as “Wow, your husband must really love you a lot to let you travel.” I just shrug my shoulders and let them believe what they want. I know I’m fortunate to have a wonderful life partner who supports me and helps me (not lets me!) follow my dreams.
As I prepare for the 3 am wake-up call tomorrow and get my bags packed, I look forward to the next five days in Haiti. I have done my homework and know what to expect. It may be the western hemisphere’s poorest country that is still in deep recovery after the horrific earthquake five years ago. But it is rebuilding and there is hope.
Photo credit: Heart of Haiti
As part of the Macy’s Heart of Haiti program, we will be visiting the amazing women artisans who are working hard to build themselves and their families a better life. Women who five years ago were merely survivors who lost so much. I look forward to sharing more of their inspiring stories with you of hope, determination and a will to never give up. I will tell you about how Heart of Haiti was founded and why. How it has lifted these women up from hopelessness and poverty and has enabled them to create a sustainable living through art. I look forward to sharing their stories and offering a voice of hope.
Further reading:
Today, on Global Moms Challenge, my friend Leticia Barr wrote a guest post about our upcoming trip. She has traveled to Haiti before with Heart of Haiti and her post gives a bit more background about the program and what we aim to do.
The city of La Paz is one of the most unusual places I’ve ever been simply given its unimaginable geography. Built within the deep walls of a canyon La Paz snakes and sprawls down preposterously steep, narrow and congested streets making mass transit an absolute nightmare. The only way to get around is on foot, by cab (which is expensive for most Bolivians) or to ride in one of the city’s 40,000 over-packed minibuses.
High above Zona Sur and central La Paz, lies El Alto, a city within itself that has exploded over the years as Bolivians migrate from the countryside into the city. Today, El Alto has over a million people and getting from El Alto to the center of La Paz and Zona Sur (way down below at the bottom of the canyon) can prove to be a long affair especially at rush hour.
Understanding the great need for a better mass transit system, the Bolivian government set their hopes high on a rather unusual solution: The construction and implementation of one of the largest urban cable car systems in the world to be used for transportation.
As an avid skier, I have experienced the luxury and ease of riding a Swiss-made gondola high above the snow-covered peaks of the Alps. But I had never in my wildest dreams imagined the same kind of gondola would be used in a huge, chaotic city like La Paz.
When I first saw the cable cars in the sky I was stunned. Little dots were everywhere floating graciously up the mountains. I asked the cab driver if they were for sightseeing but he said no. They were for transportation. Instantly I knew I had to take a ride for myself and experience an urban gondola. I grabbed my camera knowing there would be many amazing views from above, and was off.
The Andes are an incredible mountain range passing from north to south through seven countries making it the longest continental mountain range in the world. There is something about the Andes that is simply magical. The grandeur, scale and scope of the Andes is mind-boggling. Over 4,300 miles long (7,000 km) and at points up to 430 miles wide (700 km), the Andes are immense and are blessed with some of the highest volcanoes in the world and largest ice fields.
I have been lucky to have set foot on the Andes in Peru, Chile, Argentina and most recently, Bolivia. There is no way I can pick favorites as each place has been unique and special in its own way. A four-day visit to the Cordillera Real in the Altiplano of Bolivia gave me once again a feeling of the enormous scale of the Andes. There are over 600 snow-capped peaks in just the Cordillera Real and we only hiked two of them.
On the first day at our camp as the morning sun rose high above the Andes, I shot these photos of what was to come. Judging by the immense beauty, I knew that the Bolivian Andes offered something special.
Its been 16 years since I’ve been skiing in Utah and after two days of hard skiing I realize what a mistake it has been not coming again sooner. I love skiing out West and I especially love Snowbird. The fluffy white powder (averages 500 inches per season) and serendipitous deep blue sky is enough to make anyone love winter. In my opinion, Snowbird is one of the best ski areas out West.
Located in the heart of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest in Little Cottonwood Canyon only a mile down canyon from the Alta ski resort, Snowbird is a picturesque place with little development. The ski area is 2,500 acres with 168 runs and a terrain ranging from 27 percent beginner, 38 percent intermediate and 35 percent advanced/expert. The top elevation of the resort is at 11,000-foot Hidden Peak in which you can ride up in a large 125-person Tram in seven minutes flat. The views of the snow-capped peaks in all directions are breathtaking.
Landing on a cloudy day over the Great Salt Lake is amazing.
It has been a short, three-generational trip with my daughter Sophia and father. The conditions have been amazing with the most snow in the country and unseasonably warm weather. It has been a fantastic break from winter back in Minnesota. There is nothing better than being in the mountains whether it be walking, hiking, skiing or even just having a picnic. Here are a few shots from the trip.
Sometimes it is hard to believe that tranquility can be found inside the center of a vibrant, bustling city like La Paz. Yet for that exact reason I believe the founders of La Paz created just that kind of place directly within the heart and soul of the city. Originally called Plaza de Armas, Plaza Murillo was renamed after the war hero General Pedro Domingo Murillo who lead the wars of independence which eventually freed La Paz from its Colonial past.
Plaza Murillo is smack in the middle of La Paz and is surrounded by beautiful government buildings and an ornate cathedral. It is a lovely place to sit and chat with friends, have a snack or refreshment from a nearby street vendor or play with the swarms of pigeons. Whatever you fancy, you can find it here.
As you enter the Plaza Murillo, your eyes are immediately drawn to the gorgeous cathedral soaring majestically above the square. Built in 1835, the imposing cathedral was constructed in Renaissance style and sits proudly next to the Presidential Palace. I spent a few moments walking around the square capturing some of the various buildings. It was evident that most of Plaza Murillo had been nicely restored but like the rest of the city, other parts had been obviously missed.
“The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscape but in having new eyes” – Marcel Proust
I always love a good philosophical photo challenge and this week’s WordPress Photo Challenge “Depth” happens to just fit the bill. The host of this week’s challenge Ben Huberman discusses the many different angles and perceptions of depth whether it be in the depth of field, the depth of color or texture or the depth of someone close to you. I felt that depth also offers a reason to look deep within oneself and examine what we see.
Through the practice of yoga, I’ve really began exploring the issue of “self” and “self-reflection”. I’ve learned a lot through the power of using my breath and the strength and flexibility not only of my physical but also my mental self. I truly believe that this self-examination into the depth of my soul has made me a much more balanced, peaceful person that helps me be a better person, mom, spouse, friend and writer.
As personal as it can be, taking time to look deep within our souls can be quite healing. Not only does it bring about long known revelations about who we truly are, it also evoles into some kind of acceptance and peace. I believe everyone has something they can personally work on to make them truer to themselves. For me, it is trying to use all my positive energy for good and not let my type-A personality frazzle me. It is taking time to slow down and stop and smell the roses in life. Relax. Breathe. Embrace. And enjoy each and every moment.
Photography and writing is a way for me to express myself and reflect on my life. If I use the approach of diving deep down within my photo collection and digging out the pictures that most describe my heart and soul, here they are.
As an avid reader and traveler, I enjoy finding books that will not only entertain but educate me. Most books I read are not always the most pleasant topic matter and give a rather intense look at the world. I try to read a lot on women’s rights and current events around the world, and occasionally throw in a poetic piece of fiction for fun.
Last night I completed reading “A House in the Sky“, a harrowing account of Canadian journalist Amanda Lindhout’s 460 days held hostage by Islamic fundamentalists in Somalia. Co-authored by The New York Times Magazine’s Sara Corbett, A House in the Sky is one of the most intense books I’ve read in years. A book that by the end, left me in tears.
Beautifully written in reflective, poetic prose the book starts off slowly with Amanda’s story of how she was raised by a dysfunctional, poor family outside of Calgary and how she used her money as a waitress to support her wanderlust and see the world. To be honest, there were many times over the course of the first 100 pages of Amanda’s back story that made me want to put the book away and stop reading. Oftentimes I find personal narratives a bit narcissistic and vain such was the case with reading the best-selling books “Eat, Pray, Love” and “Wild“. Yet something in Amanda’s story kept me reading it, wanting to get to the story of her abduction and subsequent 15 months in captivity by Somalian jihadists.
One of my favorite finds in La Paz is Calle Jaén, the most colonial street in the city. About a ten minute walk directly uphill from the Iglesia de San Francisco, Calle Jaén is a magical place. Colored in Spanish Colonial hues of brilliant reds, blues, greens and pinks, walking down Calle Jaén’s narrow cobblestone street feels like stepping back in time.
It took a little bit of wandering around to find it and sadly I almost got pick-pocketed by a very normal looking man (thank you Mom for lending me a jacket with a complicated button closing the pocket! Otherwise he would have been able to grab my travel wallet!). When I felt the tug on my jacket and realized what was going on, I started to yell and he was gone. It was a close call though not enough to keep me away from finding Calle Jaén. I was determined to find this hidden treasure.
Leaving Iglesia de San Francisco and heading up towards Calle Jaén
Even the building leading up to Calle Jaen are quite colorful.
For over three years, I have been a part of World Moms Blog, an amazing group of women writing about motherhood around the globe. These women have become some of my closest friends and I have been incredibly honored to work with them as a part of World Moms Blog, ONE Women and Girls, and Shot@Life. This week we are supporting CleanBirth.org, an organization started by one of our contributors, Kristyn Zalota,to make birth safer in Laos, one of the worst places on earth to give birth.
In the rural areas of Laos where almost 70% of the population live, access to life-saving health care is sparse and many people live in remote, mountainous areas that are hard to reach posing challenges for expectant mothers. Per the World Health Organization, Laos ranks 21st out of all countries in the world in terms of the highest maternal mortality rates. The 2010 statistics are 470 maternal deaths out of 100,000 live births which is worse than Afghanistan. Infant mortality rate is not much better. Laos comes in as the 33rd highest with a rate of 54 deaths out of 1,000 live births (2014).
Mother and child in Laos. Photo Credit: Kristyn Zalota
La Ciudad de Nuestra de la Paz (the city of our Lady of Peace) was founded on October 20, 1548 by Captain Alonzo de Mendoza. Mendoza, a conquistador from Spain, believed La Paz offered the perfect place to establish a city because it would bring them wealth through gold. It also offered a key link between Lima and Potosí, a city in southern Bolivia built around the richest silver mine in the world. Sadly, the arrival and consequent colonization of Bolivia profoundly changed the livelihoods of the ingenious population who still feel the effects of land redistribution, class segregation and wealth distribution today.
What the Spanish colonization left behind is a city filled with an eclectic mix of European colonial and South American architectural influences. As the oldest settlement in South America, La Paz offers some of the most unique examples of traditional Spanish Colonial architecture found. However, like so many developing countries many of La Paz’ buildings lie in a state of disrepair and lack of preservation reminding me so much of Cuba.
Come take a walk with me through the streets of La Paz to take a peak at her architectural beauty and charm. Close you eyes and imagine what a fresh coat of paint would do!
Traditional Spanish Colonial churches
An estimated 95% of Bolivians are Roman Catholics and the churches are glorious representations of their faith. The indigenous population have converted to Catholicism but also incorporate some of their native beliefs into their faith.
Iglesia de San Francisco reflects a blend of 16th century Spanish and mestizo influence.
The best place to get a feel for daily life in La Paz is to walk her chaotic, often serpentine streets and see it all for yourself. As the sun rises, the streets are relatively quiet save for the growing hum of the cars, vans and buses that transport people around. By nine o’clock, the streets begin to come alive as the street vendors open up the doors of their little green stalls, bringing a burst of riotous color to the scene. Children in uniforms walk to school while men and women move swiftly to get to work. Others pass their time lounging on the stoops of a building or on a bench in the park.
I found the best way to get a taste of daily life in La Paz was to capture as many different aspects of it as possible on film. I have already posted my street photography photos on street art, women, markets and vendors. Now it is time to take a look at how people express themselves in their daily lives.
Singing on the streets to earn a dime.
Eating breakfast outdoors before opening her stall for the day.
