Calle Jaén: The Most Colonial Street in La Paz

One of my favorite finds in La Paz is Calle Jaén, the most colonial street in the city. About a ten minute walk directly uphill from the Iglesia de San Francisco, Calle Jaén is a magical place. Colored in Spanish Colonial hues of brilliant reds, blues, greens and pinks, walking down Calle Jaén’s narrow cobblestone street feels like stepping back in time.

It took a little bit of wandering around to find it and sadly I almost got pick-pocketed by a very normal looking man (thank you Mom for lending me a jacket with a complicated button closing the pocket! Otherwise he would have been able to grab my travel wallet!). When I felt the tug on my jacket and realized what was going on, I started to yell and he was gone. It was a close call though not enough to keep me away from finding Calle Jaén. I was determined to find this hidden treasure.

La Paz Bolivia

Leaving Iglesia de San Francisco and heading up towards Calle Jaén

The day had grown rather overcast which was a bit disappointing as I knew the views would be lovelier in the warm sunshine. Then the colors of the buildings would really jump out. But obviously I had to take what I could get. You can’t control the weather.

Once again, I enjoyed capturing the deteriorating buildings along the way. For some reason, they always fascinate me.

As I was taking pictures, a man said something to me in Spanish and asked me to take his photograph. Why not?

It was right after this picture that I turned around and started walking up the hill to feel the tug on my sleeve. It was time to put my camera away and pay attention.

We arrived at a small plaza and I knew we were almost there. I pulled out my map and saw the narrow entrance to Calle Jaén across the street.

There are four small museums near Calle Jaén called the Calle Jaén Museums. I didn’t go to any of them due to lack of time however they are highly recommended in the guidebook.  I was mostly interested in seeing the beautiful colonial street and it was worth the preposterously steep walk and almost getting pick-pocketed to see it.  Calle Jaén is beautiful!

We found it!

The colors, the wrought-iron balconies and the lampposts made me smile. It was so quaint and no one was there except a few passerby. The cobblestones were intact and it truly was the most beautiful street I had seen in all of La Paz.

I just loved all the red!

The sky was getting darker. I had an umbrella in case of rain but I had hoped it wouldn’t ruin the walk.

The clouds were getting grayer but at least it wasn’t raining.

The street is short and ends rather abruptly. I took a couple final shots before saying goodbye to Calle Jaén.

By far this street was my favorite find in La Paz. I can only imagine what it would be like on a bright and sunny day. Magnificent.

32 thoughts on “Calle Jaén: The Most Colonial Street in La Paz

  1. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling. In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
    Alison and Don on said:

    So charming! I too would have walked up steep hills to see this gem. Thank you for your beautiful photographs.
    Alison

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Alison! 🙂

  2. Kat at travelgardeneat – Life sometimes gets so busy, we forget to stop and smell the roses. Travel.Garden.Eat is a reminder to slow down and enjoy the things that make good memories and replenish the soul!
    Kat at travelgardeneat on said:

    Great reminder to never get too complacent as a traveler! Your photos do a wonderful job capturing the character of the special street.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yep. I did know before putting my iPhone in the pocket that it was almost impossible to open. Otherwise I wouldn’t have put it there. But it is true, you must always be aware as a traveler!!!

  3. scillagrace – Oregon – I began this blog when I entered my 50th year of life. I have always enjoyed writing and taking photographs. My sister did a profound personal photo project the year she was turning 50, so once again, I followed in her footsteps, taking her idea and doing it my way. My life has changed dramatically in recent years, and I have changed with it. My husband died, my kids moved out, I sold our home and moved to Wisconsin, then followed my kids to Oregon. I suppose I have a lot to process, and I'm sure there will be more.
    scillagrace on said:

    Very picturesque….and quite the workout, by the look of it!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thank you! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Leslie! 🙂

  4. lexklein – I’m a restless, world-wandering, language-loving, book-devouring traveler trying to straddle the threshold between a traditional, stable family life and a free-spirited, irresistible urge to roam. Even when I was young, I always wanted to be somewhere else. I was the kid who loved camp, vacations, sleepovers, and all forms of transportation. Did my restlessness spring from a love of languages and other cultures? From a fiction fixation and all the places I’ve visited on the pages of a globeful of authors? I think it’s more primordial, though, an innate itch that demands scratching at regular intervals. I’m sure I won’t have a travel story every time I add to this blog, but I’ve got a lot! I’m a pretty happy camper (literally), but there is some angst as well as excitement in always having one foot out the door. Come along for the trip as I take the second step …
    lexklein on said:

    While the colorful buildings in the foregrounds are certainly beautiful, I loved seeing the crowded hillsides in the background just as much! They give such a great sense of the city’s topography.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! I loved how those pictures turned out with the hillsides so vivid and crammed packed with houses. It is the craziest city I’ve ever seen. I can’t believe they built it on such steep cliffs!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      I do too! I had a money belt on but my iPhone was in my pocket as I also use it occasionally to take pics for Instagram. I wasn’t going to keep it in my pocket but the button was so hard to open that I figured it was safe. So I carried it there and thankfully the would be pick pocketer couldn’t open it either!!!!

      • It happened to us when we were in Paris many years ago before we knew about money belt. It was a terrible experience.

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Yes it is never nice getting robbed! I got robbed in Peru inside a taxi cab! The guys came up with a bat, broke the window and grabbed my bag. I was just getting into the country and heading from the airport to my hotel. It was awful.

  5. lulu – Houston, TX & Rockport, ME – I am a fiber artist with special emphasis on weaving, but I love working with threads and cloth in a variety of mediums. New ideas, new ways of connecting threads are the spice of life.
    lulu on said:

    Any place with so much color is one I’d like. La Paz looks very dense.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes it is very colorful but very dense indeed.

  6. Boots – Dallas, TX – I'm Boots, a former flight attendant, a wannabe fashionista mom, who lived in Manila, Los Angeles, New York, Tokyo and now currently living in the wonderful suburbs of Dallas! I have always wanted a lifestyle of constant traveling, eating well, and shopping but my "new reality" went from holding designer bags to grocery bags, from a sports car to a minivan, and from a jetsetter to a stay-at-home mom.
    Boots on said:

    You can make a house or building with graffiti look beautiful. Do you ever use your iPhone for your blog or is it just mostly for instagram?

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Ah thank you! I usually use my regular camera (about 95% of the time) and my iPhone is when I remember to pull it out and take a shot!

  7. Rebeca – África – Hola mucho gusto, soy Rebeca! Soy una optimista irremediable; una aventurera y curiosa de corazón; amante del arte y de la vida, creo fielmente en que todo en nuestra existencia pasa por una razón, todo viene con una enseñanza y que somos los creadores de nuestra felicidad, ser feliz es una decisión. Aprecio distintas representaciones artísticas, sobre todo la pintura, la cual estudio y práctico; me fascina viajar, conocer nuevos sitios, países, personas, comidas, escuchar buena música, ver cine de autor, hacer yoga, meditar, bailar, entre otras cosas. Mientras escribía mi tesis de Maestría, descubrí una nueva pasión, (¿quién lo diría?!): ¡me gusta escribir! Deseando vivir mí vida al máximo renuncié a mi trabajo de oficina y me fui a vivir a Sri Lanka por dos años, para salir un poco de mi zona confort, descubrir cuál es mi verdadera pasión y así vivir de ella, además de querer disfrutar de las infinitas motivaciones que hay en el mundo para ser feliz. En ese camino fuera de todo lo conocía, re-descubrí y me sumergí en los misterios de Oriente e hice mi Certificación Internacional para ser profesora de Yoga, así que soy estudiante perpetua y profesora de Yoga Hatha y Vinyasa. Después de dos años en Asia, me mudé a mi nuevo hogar en otro continente: África. Donde empiezo nuevamente desde cero este 2017 sin saber nada con certeza y redescubrimiento el mundo a mí alrededor. Descubre conmigo este nuevo capítulo de mi vida y de Desarrollo Peregrino en Uganda. Soy venezolana, inicié mi carrera universitaria a los 16 años en la Universidad Central de Venezuela, a los 20 años me gradué de Licenciada en Estudios Internacionales. En esa misma Universidad, trabajé en la Secretaría del Rectorado y luego inicie carrera profesional en el mundo diplomático en Caracas, trabajando para la Delegación de la Unión Europea y la Embajada de Polonia. En esta última estuve Encargada de los Asuntos Culturales, por lo cual me mantuve muy cerca de diferentes representaciones artísticas. En el 2014 finalicé sus estudios en la Maestría en Comunicación Social en la Universidad Central de Venezuela. Además he realizado cursos de arte, dibujo y pintura de artistas venezolanas y estadounidenses, a través de la Art League School y Corcoran College of Art and Design en Washignton DC. Mi nueva pasión es el Yoga, en el 2016 hice mi Certificación Internacional como profesora de Yoga en la escuela Samma Karuma en Koh Phangan, Tailandia.
    Rebeca on said:

    Oh so nice you find it! It’s beatiful! I went to La Paz and I didn’t know about this street, it’s so bad I missed it.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the photos!

  8. Marilyn Albright – Home Based in Sterling, Alaska – Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula has been home for more than 40 years. My husband, David, and I live on 10 acres of forest near the town of Soldotna. We are more or less retired, meaning we are retired from gainful employment but not from life! Our son lives in Australia and our daughter in Colorado. Photography, fiber arts, reading, and hiking/walking are some of my interests, and David shares my love of gardening, camping, cooking, and traveling, plus he is our tech expert.
    Marilyn Albright on said:

    Beautiful photos of the colorful buildings! Your perspectives really show the STEEP mountainsides and the density of the city.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! 🙂

  9. Beautiful images Nicole! So glad to hear that the pickpocket did not succeed. I love the way you capture the crumbling buildings amidst the vivid colors. You always manage to capture the essence of a city.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks LuAnn! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes it was! 🙂

  10. restlessjo – Hi! I’m Jo! Johanna when I’m feeling posh, Jan to my Dad, and Joasiu to my Polish family. A bit of a mix-up, that’s me. The one constant, however, is my restless nature. I love to travel and to explore our world. It doesn’t have to be the big wide world. I can be ridiculously happy not too far from home, so long as I’m seeking new horizons. Of course I have a wish list, and it was to help me fulfil my dreams that I started to write travel guides for a venture called Simonseeks. I’d always kept a travel diary, and it was hugely satisfying to share my experiences and to make new friends who shared my passion for travel. Alas, Simonseeks hit a few troubles, but I still find myself writing about my travels. I’ve become addicted. I’d love to share them, and to make more friends. So, it has to be a blog- right? Or do I mean- write?
    restlessjo on said:

    Those warm Spanish colours are lovely, Nicole. I love the way you are always drawn to the ramshackle too 🙂
    So many people are kind when you travel. The pickpocket must have come as quite a surprise!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes it was a little bit of a surprise but I guess it does happen. 🙂

  11. Nice work, Nicole! Was that your first experience with a pick-pocket? Glad to hear that button was too hard to open. It saved you much frustration. 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! No, I’ve been mugged out of a cab before! They broke the window with a bat and stole my backpack in Lima. It was awful and quite scary.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Ha Ha….well I’ve had worse. I’ve been mugged from a cab. Window broken with bat and bag snatched all within a flash.

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