View from the Top: Xela lies thousands of feet below.
“Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” -Ed Viesturs climber and author of “No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks”
After my surreal experience on top of Santa Maria volcano, witnessing my first live volcanic eruption just a few thousand feet below my perch on a jagged rock, it was time to say goodbye. Heading back is always the anti-climax of a hike, especially a good one in which you reach your peak and for that moment in time you are on top of the world. But as I always say, all good things must come to an end. It was time to head back.
The start of our descent….you can see terraced farmland first, followed by the town of Xela far below.
“No matter how sophisticated you may be, a large granite mountain cannot be denied — it speaks in silence to the very core of your being”. —-Ansel Adams
Around 10:30, five hours after starting our hike up the dark and slippery path of the Santa Maria Volcano we had finally arrived at her pointed peak. The clouds had started to form and blanket the valley of Xela thousands of miles below. Yet fortunately they hadn’t fully conquered the peak. There was still a spectacular view of the surrounding volcanoes and valley beneath.
As we approached our resting spot for an early lunch I was perplexed by a low humming sound. The sound of voices, high and low, big and small, filled up the empty open space around me. As we come closer to the noise I realized with amazement that it was a human chain of chanting. The Mayans were singing their prayers to their gods. The voices of their chants flowed smoothly together making a monotonous tone at times, entrancing me and captivating my soul.
“The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it…” – Antoine de Saint-Exupery
View of the grand Santa Maria volcano off in the distance as I was leaving Xela via shuttle on my way to Antigua.
There are things you’ll experience in Guatemala that will stay with you forever: the smell of a freshly grilled tortilla; the assault-on-all-senses of a jungle trek; the people you bump into on the road and become lifelong friends…..In the west, a volcano looms on almost every horizon, almost begging to be climbed. (Opening lines in the introduction to Guatemala, Lonely Planet 2010).
It was with these words, “almost begging to be climbed” that I joyously opted to skip my already-paid for Spanish class on Wednesday and wake up at the break of dawn to climb Guatemala’s fourth highest volcano, Santa Maria (elevation 3772 m/12,375 feet). It didn’t matter that I was utterly exhausted nor that I didn’t have the right gear. All that mattered was there was an enormously, inviting volcano begging to be climbed. There was no way I wasn’t going to climb it.
Just a short note to let you all know that I had the most spectacular day today in Guatemala! I rose at 4:45 am and set off in complete darkness to climb the fourth highest volcano in Guatemala, Santa Maria at 12,375 feet/3772m. It was so intensely beautiful that it made me melt. When we got to the top of the volcano a few hours later, I saw my first ever live volcano eruption right across the way at Santiaguito Volcano. Here it is….
There are two other options for climbing The Santa Maria Volcano. One is you start at 11 pm and do a moonlight hike and watch the sun rise over the neighboring volcanoes (there are tons!) but it is very very cold. The other is a 2 or 3 am start and you arrive just as the sun rises over the volcanoes. Apparently if you do the night hike you can see the brilliant red lava gleaming from a neighboring volcano!!!! If I was here a little longer than a week, I would have definitely done it. I can’t imagine how amazing it would be to see burning live lava in the darkness of the night!
Stay tuned…This is just a quick “postcard” summary of my trip. I took over 150 pictures today of the amazing volcano, countryside and farmland. Of course I need to edit and write it all up as a post! That will be when I return!
With an unexpected, unplanned day ahead of us due to bad weather at the Tongariro Crossing (see earlier post), we discussed our options with our B&B hosts Peter and Grace who enthusiastically informed us of nearby Waimangu Volcanic Valley located near Rotorua.
Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley is the hydrothermal system created on 10 June 1886 by the volcanic eruption of Mount Tarawera, on the North Island of New Zealand. It encompasses Lake Rotomahana, the former site of the Pink and White Terraces. It was the location of the Waimangu Geyser, which was active from 1901 to 1904. The valley contains Frying Pan Lake, which is the largest hot spring in the world. – Wikipedia
The world’s youngest geothermal system and the “must-do” tourist attraction in the area, Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley is definitely a thrill to see. There are tons of tour agents offering daily visits to the area but of course Paul and I wanted to do it on our own and chose the best way to see the area: A hike.
We drove first to the town of Rotorua, whose abundant thermal activity makes the entire place smell like rotten eggs!(Perhaps you get used to it when you live there!). The town was way too touristy for my liking yet it was indeed fascinating. Our stay was short, however, as we wanted to get a hike in and knew that most of the tourists would not be following us.
We followed the trailhead for a short hour and a half hike up and back. There was not a soul around, the way I like to hike and the views were impressive.
Start of the hike.
Hot steamy water. Wouldn’t want t take a swim in there!
Interesting greenery given the location!
View at the top of the Waimangu Volcanic Valley.
The park proved to be a great day hike. It was my first visit to a geothermal valley and I was amazed by the lava lakes, hot volcanic streams and the unique curiosities the place.
As the afternoon skies began to clear we wished we had one more day in the area to do the Tongariro Crossing. That night we saw it, finally, while we were eating dinner at a restaurant in Taupo. We took a sip of our cold beer and thought…next time.
Here it is, the Tongariro Crossing in the background.
Stay tuned…one last post perhaps on New Zealand. Then I’m off on a new subject if time permits before heading off to Guatemala on March 3rd. This time I will remember to take loads of pictures! 🙂
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing in Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand‘s most spectacular tramping tracks, and is considered the most popular one-day tramp in New Zealand. The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site which has the distinction of dual status, as it has been acknowledged for both its natural and cultural significance.
The crossing passes over the volcanic terrain of the multi-cratered active volcano Mt Tongariro, passing the eastern base of Mt Ngauruhoe which can optionally be climbed as a side trip. The 19.4 km (12.0 mi) walk is renowned for its barren yet beautiful “moon like” volcanic landscape, unusual geological features, visible volcanic activity and views of the surrounding countryside below.
-Description per Wikipedia
Photo of the Tongariro Crossing accredited to Wikipedia Commons.
Today was the day that we were heading back to Auckland to begin our exploration of New Zealand’s North Island. We had already used up well over half of our vacation in the South Island and were reluctant to leave because we loved it so much. The South Island of New Zealand is a magical, beautiful place that is a true outdoor enthusiast’s heaven. We could have easily stayed there forever but of course had to get back to reality and move on.
Our flight from Christchurch to Auckland left bright and early which was a good thing because we really didn’t leave much time to spare in our itinerary. We arrived at the airport, proceeded to gather our luggage and rental car, and then were off once again heading North to Lake Taupo, in the central north part of the island.
The drive was as beautiful and serene as we’d come to expect with New Zealand. Honestly, we were getting quite spoiled. Yet, the surrounding landscape of the North Island was quite different than the South Island which made it all the more pleasurable.
The major reasons behind the differing landscapes has to do how each island was formed. The North Island was formed by volcanic activity whereas the South Island was formed by glaciers. As you can imagine, the terrain is vastly different. While the South Island is lined from north to south with the snow-capped mountains of the Southern Alps, the North Island is graced with extinct volcanoes, geysers, hot springs and less lush vegetation. It is more rugged and raw while the South is more lavish, green and majestic. The stark contrast between the two islands make it a necessity to visit them both.
The drive to Lake Taupo took a little under three hours and we timed the drive so we could play a round of golf upon our arrival. With the exchange rate being so incredible (this was 2002 remember), we were able to play the Waikai International Golf course, rated in the top 20 in the world at the time, for only $50 each! Although we were both out of practice, we still enjoyed the challenging course and I tried not to get too incredibly frustrated by how poorly I played. The sky had turned gray and overcast yet at least it wasn’t raining.
We arrived at our B&B “The Loft” which was located outside the town of Taupo around seven o’clock and were pleasantly welcomed by the owners Peter and Grace. The B&B was outstanding and by far the nicest one we had stayed at during our trip thus far. It had only three rooms and felt more like a house than an inn. Our hosts Peter and Grace were wonderful and a tremendous help.
By the time we got back to town for dinner it was approaching nine o’clock and we were famished. I started to get rather agitated as I’m known to do when I don’t eat on schedule (I know, not a good habit, but my appetite is rather routine). I was about ready to start eating my arm when the waiter casually walked over and saw my look of distress. Instantly a bewitching smile crossed his handsome face as well as a look of concern. Kiwis cannot stand stress and they generally want everyone to relax and enjoy life as the Kiwis do. So what did he do? He turned around, left and came back with an ice cold bottle of local Sav Blanc (my favorite) and set it down on our table. This is what he said:
You’re in New Zealand. You’re at a great place, with a great guy. So why don’t you just relax. Here’s a bottle, on the house.
Then he gave me a wink and left. Wow, I tell you, did that make my night. I could never imagine a similar scenario playing out at home in the US. I loved the laid-back, carefree life of many New Zealanders. I wondered why I had fallen into that American trap of worrying too much about everything and not just letting go. Ahh…I wish I could live in New Zealand!
We had an excellent dinner at Nannie’s, right on Lake Taupo. The wine flowed steadily, the conversation was light and hearty and I learned a valuable lesson that night. That sometimes it is time to stop and smell the roses. Otherwise life will just pass you by.
Stay tuned…Next post: Our big day! We are scheduled to rise before dawn to do the eight-hour Tongariro Crossing hike. It is rated one of the top hikes in New Zealand!
With one day left on the South Island and yet another spectacular blue sky, Paul and I decided to hit the road and take a day trip to the nearby village of Akaroa, located about 54 miles/87 kilometers from Christchurch. Akaroa is the oldest town in Canterbury, founded by French settlers in 1840, and is a wonderfully quaint, beautiful village nestled in the heart of the Banks Peninsula. We had also heard that the area offered many opportunities for excellent “tramps” (or hikes as we call it) as well as ocean cruises to see New Zealand’s unique marine wildlife.
We headed out early in the morning choosing to take the “scenic route” in our rental car. Apparently there are two ways to Aakora: One easy and relatively straightforward, and the other more spectacular, yet rugged. We took the latter. It wound up being a harrowing hour and a half drive from Christchurch but well worth the incredible views.
Here is the description of the route we followed per the New Zealand Tourism Guide:
There are two routes to Akaroa. State Highway 75 takes you via Lake Ellesmere and Lake Forsyth before it climbs over the hills to Akaroa Harbour. The other route is very scenic, but longer and more difficult to drive. It takes you through the Lyttelton tunnel and around Lyttelton Harbour before making the rugged, cross country journey to Akaroa.
Photo taken during our “tramp” in the Banks Peninsula with the sheep looking on.
“Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” – Mark Jenkins
Around five o’clock we boarded our ship for the night, the lovely Milford Manner and sailed off into the sparkling blue depths of the world famous Milford Sound. We felt quite lucky to have such amazing weather and no rain in sight in a place that normally receives rain an average 330 days per year.
View from our ship, the Milford Manor, of the Milford Sound in all her splendor.
Another small ship paved the way ahead but besides this other ship, we were the only ones around.
The Milford Sound travels for ten miles/sixteen kilometers before the fiord meets the Tasman Sea. It is one of the most remote areas of New Zealand in which most of it is impenetrable except the fiord itself and the 34 mile/55 km track which is considered one of the top treks in the world.
After traveling to the world-famous fiords of Norway and being blown away by their sensational beauty, I knew that Paul and I would have to make time for a trip down south to New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park.
Fiordland National Park is located on the Southwestern part of New Zealand’s South Island and is the country’s largest park with over 21,000 square km/8,100 square miles of pristine forests, mountains and lakes. The region is composed of over 14 fiords and five major lakes that are flanked by steep, jagged mountains coated in rainforest making this part of the world virtually impenetrable except along the 310 miles of tracks (hiking trails) or by boat. I had heard that Fiordland offered some of the best scenery in all of New Zealand and after the sheer, pure beauty we had seen so far, I couldn’t imagine that we would see anything finer.
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain
The New Zealand Silver Fern, the symbol of purity and beauty.
The Routeburn Track in the South Island of New Zealand is perhaps one of the finest hikes in the world. It rates up there with neighboring Milford Track as well as the world-famous Annapurna Trek in Nepal.
The 24 mile/29 kilometer Routeburn Track generally takes three days and climbs up to some of the most spectacular, pristine temperate rain forest and alpine scenery in the world. Unfortunately my husband and I only had one day allocated to a tramp (what the Kiwi’s call hiking) along the Routeburn Track, and we were going to make the most of it. Given what we had already seen of Queenstown and the surrounding area, we knew that our visit to Routeburn would be one of the best parts of the trip and we weren’t at all disappointed.
Below is a panoramic shot of the view at the top of the Routeburn Track….a view that we didn’t get to see. This means we’ll have to someday go back and do the whole thing! (Photo credit Wikipedia Commons).
As I always say, there is no better way to experience the raw beauty of nature than to do it by a good hike. Sabino Canyon is just one of those places. It is achingly beautiful and perhaps one of the most stunning places in all of southwestern Arizona.
Nestled in the southeastern foothills of Tucson, Arizona in the Santa Catalina mountains, Sabino Canyon is a true gem. The formation of these mountains began over 12 million years ago, long before the first sign of man. Over time, a significant canyon formed that would eventually turn into a lush, verdant desert oasis deep inside the canyon.
A massive earthquake in 1887 centered in Northern Mexico caused even more change to the canyon. Massive boulders dislodged and crashed down thousands of miles below creating an even more dramatic landscape. In 1905, the U.S. Forest Service was created and took over the administration of Sabino Canyon. Nothing much happened to the area until the 1930s. The onset of the Great Depression prompted the US Government to put people to work by building infrastructure and one of the places that benefited was Sabino Canyon. The Sabino Dam as well as over nine bridges were built during this time, creating a 4.5 mile paved road up through the canyon. Plans had been made to continue the road all the way up the canyon up to Mount Lemmon but fortunately they ran out of money and the project was dropped. Had the road been built, the entire beauty of Sabino Canyon would have been destroyed and lost.
Sabino Canyon officially opened as a State Park and recreational area in 1978. Today, it ranks one of the top tourist destinations in all of Tucson and is a haven for hikers, walkers, bikers and anyone else who wants to enjoy its raw beauty.
A tram service runs daily every half an hour up the canyon and back. For only a few dollars, you can ride along and listen to an informative narration on the history, geology and flora and fauna of Sabino Canyon. This is a great thing to do as a family and of course we have done it many times. However, the best thing to do in Sabino Canyon is to get out there and experience it firsthand with a hike.
There are several hikes in Sabino Canyon and over the years I’ve done many of them. However, my most favorite hike of all is called The Phoneline Trail, which is about an eight mile round trip hike, located about two-thirds of the way up the canyon, giving you a bird’s eye view of this spectacular place.
The start of the trail is flat but not for long.
There are many types of cacti found throughout Sabino Canyon. The Saguaro Cactus is perhaps the most well-known. It takes on average 65-70 years for this cactus to grow an arm. They also can live for over 200 years! What also is amazing about the Saguaro cactus is its root system. Saguaro’s roots only go down about twenty inches deep, however, the roots spread out as wide as they are high. Pretty unbelievable!
After a mile or so of flat walking, it is time to climb up! It is best to be prepared with tons of water, hiking polls, lots of sunscreen and of course extra stamina. It is not uncommon to see college aged kids running up the trail! I even saw some people running barefoot. Crazy given all the rocks and obstacles.
Soon the hike leads you gradually and then steeply up the side of the canyon walls.
My favorite barrel cactus which bloosom beautifully in the springtime.
Finally after a couple of hours hiking we are nearing the top of the hike where the Phoneline Trail flattens out and you basicaly walk along the edge of the canyon.
Down below is the paved trail which is another option for seeing the canyon. But I prefer to view from up top!
At the end of the canyon in back is Mount Lemmon, a beautiful area that hosts many pine trees as well as a ski resort.
Sabino Canyon is home to a wide variety of wild life including the elusive mountain lion, bobcats, ocelots, skunks, foxes, deer, javalinas, raccoons and coyotes. They also have lots of different kind of venomous and non-venomous snakes (I’ve seen a rattlesnack but not on the trail) as well as scorpions and tarantulas (yes, unfortunately I’ve seen these two things yet at my parents house! Not on the trail!).
I only wished this photo could have turned out better but we were hiking right into the sun. I have never seen the canyon as verdant as this in December. It was simply spectacular. Who would have ever imagined a desert could be so green? It is even better in March and April when the brilliant desert flowers are in bloom and the green is a vibrant lime-color that almost hurts your eyes.
There has been a ton of rainfall and snow in the upper mountains causing the streams to flow with force.
The Canyon also has an ample and diverse supply of beautiful trees such as the Cottomwood (in this picture, which still has its golden leaves on from the fall), the white-barked sycamore trees, and the dark-wooded mesquite trees. Another favorite is the Palo Verde tree which means “Green Stick” and has green bark and green leaves.
The white-barked tree in back is an Arizona Sycamore. The bark is lovely.
This is a mesquite tree which proves great firewood as well as a food source for many animals within the canyon. The tree produces bean pods which are enjoyed by many small canyon critters.
After an eight mile strenous hike through record-high heat (who would have believed it was December?), I was exhilared and fatigued. It was a great hike and I can’t wait to do it again!
Stay tuned…I am headed back to a wintery Minnesota tomorrow. I’ve heard that we finally have a few inches of snow and am looking forward to it! I am not looking forward to the cold January weather, though.
