As we made our descent into the emerald-green Paro Valley I couldn’t stop myself from thinking I was in a scene from the Avatar. It almost didn’t look real. Just twenty minutes before, we had passed Mount Everest on the lefthand side window of the plane and I was instantly spellbound. After over ten years of dreaming, I was finally almost there.
The landing at Paro airport, the only international airport in Bhutan, is one of the most difficult and dangerous in the world. In fact, only 15 pilots are authorized to land there because it requires a manual, visual landing. Trying to navigate a jet airplane through a country that is known as the most mountainous country in the world requires guts. Especially since Bhutan’s average elevation is 10,760 feet and mountains cover 98.8% of its total area. The only other place I had felt so fearful of landing was over the Himalayas of Nepal. And Nepal is what brought me to Bhutan.
As we descended, I couldn’t help but feel a little giddy by the magical surroundings outside the window. The valley was lush, verdant, and blanketed in trees. Lovely calming music that felt like being more at a spa than on an airplane was gently playing through the Druk Air’s loudspeakers. If this was the world’s last Shangri-La, I was certainly very excited to see it.
Mount Everest outside the plane window
I had left wintery Minnesota over two days before, flying over 8 hours to Amsterdam, and then after a six-hour layover, another 10 hours to Delhi. When I landed in India, my back was aching, my legs were numb, and my bad right hip was searing in pain. After clearing customs and waiting over two hours to receive my bags at the airport, I walked outside into the thick humid air. It was four in the morning yet the airport was as packed as if it was midday. I quietly thanked myself for having the insight to spend a night at an airport hotel in Delhi before continuing on to Bhutan. I wasn’t twenty anymore. I was completely exhausted.
Namaste! Welcome to India
I spent the day resting up before continuing my journey to Bhutan the next morning. When I stood in line at the Druk Airlines counter at Indira Gandhi International Airport I instantly noticed I was one of the only foreigners. All in all, I counted only three which included me.
Soon I’d realize, that would be the theme for the next nine days in the Kingdom of Bhutan. I would be the only guest at the hotel, the only foreigner at the restaurant, and the last hiker of the season on the famous Trans Bhutan Trail.
I had dreamed of going to Bhutan for over eleven years, ever since my dad and I went on a life-changing trip to hike the Annapurna Trail in Nepal before milestone birthdays. As cliché as it may sound, that trip to Nepal did change my life. It began my journey as a writer, starting this very blog, thirdeyemom, and set me on a path to see the world.
After completing the trip, I promised myself I’d be back to the Himalayas someday and as time went by, I decided it would be a fitting place to go for another, bigger milestone birthday: When I turned 50. As the years went by, I thought my plan would be achievable until the pandemic struck. As borders shut down, so did my dream of going to Bhutan before 50. I was running out of time.
As life resumed normalcy, and the world began to slowly reopen, Bhutan kept its borders firmly closed. Meanwhile, my big birthday passed and life carried on. Months later during early fall, I was reading the paper and I saw it: Bhutan was set to reopen in September 2022 after one of the longest pandemic closures in the world. There was a chance I could go and make it while I was still 50. That old glimmer of hope and excitement ran through my veins as I searched online for a travel company that would take me.
Every inquiry I made ended up with a solid no. Despite reopening, none of the travel outfitters were ready or willing to take me. “In 2023,” they all said when the tourist season would open for the spring season in March. But by then I’d be 51 I realized disappointed and even more determined to find someone who would bring me. One dead end after another, I almost gave up when I tried one last place, UK-based Responsible Travel. I had heard about them through a sustainable travel writer I know and thought I’d give them a try. After two weeks of back-and-forth emails, I finally found my trip. The only caveat was that I’d have to go alone. There were no groups heading up before the end of the season, Rosie informed me.
Alone? I thought. I have flown alone to many far-off places over the years with the last destinations being Jordan and Belize. However, both times I joined a small-group tour after I arrived at the destination. I had never gone somewhere this off the beaten path all by myself. Could I do it?
The mighty Himalayas beckon behind the deep emerald-green forest where I’d be hiking
After not much consideration, I booked the trip, realizing that it was now or never. After two and a half years of pandemic life, I was beginning to lose my steam and zest for travel. If I didn’t go on this trip a small part of me worried I never would. Yes, it made me a little apprehensive and uncertain but it also brought back something that had been missing for quite some time: My love of adventure and for following my own path. I had to go.
Arrival in Paro International Airport
Two months after booking the trip, there I was landing in Paro getting ready to meet my guide for the next nine days. I didn’t mention to the company that I was nursing a bad hip – so bad that there is basically no cartilage left and I need a total hip replacement as soon as possible. No, that was better left unsaid. I didn’t want them to think that I couldn’t do it, that I couldn’t hike the Trans Bhutan Trail. Despite the jarring pain after 26 hours of travel, I popped an Advil and decided to not worry about this minor issue. If worse came to worse, I would not hike. But I knew that was not going to happen. If I put my mind to doing something, I do it.
As I walked through the door of the terminal, there he was waiting in his gho (traditional Bhutanese dress for men) holding a sign that said my name. “Tashi Delek. I’m Singay”, he said with a smile. “Welcome to Bhutan”.
too well written for a post.
What a great lead up post to your trip in Bhutan. I love this country so am excited your upcoming posts. I had heard that they were raising the tourist daily fee by a large amount, is that true? Maggie
Hi Maggie: Thanks so much for the comment. When did you go? Do you have any posts to share (I’d love to read!). Yes they did change the fee. Before, Bhutan was $250 per day which included a $65 sustainable development fee (for education, health care, training, the environment) and the rest covered all accommodations, food, travel and guide. They recently scrapped the all inclusive package and tourists pay $200/day sustainable development fee and the rest of the expensives are up to you. Honestly, it was expensive but traveling in the US to Hawaii or a ski trip to Colorado is much more as the lodging, food, etc in Bhutan is relatively cheap. I like the tax as it does keep tourism low and as my guide explained, the money is being reinvested in education (all school including university is free), health care, government training initiatives in different fields even tourism, and more. It is quite impressive. I plan to write more about that later on in my posts. 🙂
We went in 2018 and paid $250 plus an extra $50/day each because we were only 2 people. It was expensive then, but you’re right it does keep tourist numbers down. We did four posts. Here’s one that should link to the rest https://monkeystale.ca/2018/04/05/bhutan-tigers-nest-temple-and-the-quaint-town-of-paro/
Thank you! I will check your posts out!
Wow – when I saw something (maybe on Instagram) that you had gone to Bhutan alone, I assumed you meant to join a small hiking group there, as I did a few years ago. But no, you meant ALONE, with just your guide. What a very special experience; I look forward to hearing more about it!
yes! I have never done that before but did it. It was so incredible. We went to local places to eat, farmhouses, and I really connected with the community. it was an amazing trip and now I’m more inspired than ever to travel solo. It made me stronger. 🙂 Hope you are well!
I’m really happy for you, Nicole. Finally you’re in Bhutan! It’s one of the most special places I’ve been to, and I have a lot of good memories from my trip four years ago. I know how it feels to worry about whether or not we will lose our eagerness to travel to faraway places if we haven’t done it for too long. That was also part of the reasons why I decided to go back to Cambodia recently, and after that trip I surely felt more energized than before. I hope the same thing happens to you too.
Thanks Bama! I saw that post in my inbox and look forward to reading on Cambodia! Another place I’d love to go. Yes, I feel quite fortunate to be able to travel and to have gone on this trip. It did energize me. Bhutan is so special. I fell in love with its culture and mystique. I look forward to writing more on it. Where did you go when you went to Bhutan? Did you hike? Have you heard about the new Trans Bhutan Trail that just reopened after 60 years?
I was in Bhutan for one week and went to Thimphu, Paro, and Punakha. And of course I did hike to Tiger’s Nest as well, which was incredible. I’ve heard vaguely about the Trans-Bhutan Trail and it really sounds like a great way to see this unique and beautiful country. Did you do that?
Yes I did Tiger’s Nest on my last day! It was amazing! I checked out your posts on Bhutan. Looks like we saw a lot of the same things. And yes I did five days of hiking on the Trans Bhutan Trail. Pretty amazing
Definitely on my list…….not sure when- hoped to have made it by the time I was 70 but the best laid plans……travel on the back burner for a year or more now……
How are you Ruth? I hope well. I remember the lovely trip we shared in Belize. Yes, for me I almost didn’t go. I actually need a hip replacement at age 50! It was searing with pain before I left so I almost canceled. The flight was horrible but for some reason once I was hiking, it was fine. I think it feels better when I move it. Let me know if you ever want to go or organize a trip. I have all sorts of ideas and an excellent contact in Bhutan. Hope you are well and that you can travel soon. 🙂
Wow! Nicole, your posts make me wish I was twenty years younger. Have been dreaming of snowy mountainscapes for a while but not being fit enough is a huge drawback in these locations.
Thanks for sharing such beauty. And happy holidays to you and your lovely family.
Hi Madhu! I was thinking of you when I was in India. I realized I’d been to Delhi three times now but never outside of it to see this massive fascinating country. I feel I’d need months to see everything there I want to. I hope someday I can. As for being fit, it was a tough trip for me as I actually need a total hip replacement at age 50! too much wear and tear. I made it (barely as that flying was miserable) and am really glad I did. I hope you are well and happy holidays to you too! 🙂
So sorry to read about your hip Nicole. Hope the surgery goes off well. I bet you’ll be back on your feet in no time. Take care🤗
Nicole, what a daunting trip! Especially with a bad hip (says the caretaker of a bad knee 🙂 ). Kudos to you for embracing your dream. I’m looking forward to reading your next posts. ~Terri
Hi Terri and thanks for the message. Sorry, I haven’t responded but it is now day 25 post-hip replacement surgery and I never knew how tired I would be and how long the recovery would be either. I am finally walking steps and am up to 22 minutes walk inside my house, circling, because too much ice out still and I’m not 100% stable on my feet. It has been quite a journey. I hope to get back to writing more in the coming months. -Nicole
Congrats Nicole, sounds like your actually doing great. I had a knee replacement a few years ago and remember the journey well. Hang in there. 👍
It has been so hard! Mostly the utter exhaustion. I have heard knees are harder than hips. For me, the worst part has been the initial insane swelling, the inability to sleep (even now not the best), and the loss of appetite. I usually am very high energy so am not used to being so tired. I take a shower and need to lay down for an hour! Nurse said it takes a good 6 weeks post surgery to not be so exhausted. My body is working overtime to heal! 🙂
The good news is that you were so healthy and active before the surgery – that really helps in the long run.
I had an allergic reaction to the pain meds my doctor prescribed, so that challenged my recovery.
I hope that very soon you’ll start feeling better. ~T
Yes it is good! I was able to walk in the pool right up until the day before surgery. After I didn’t have pain, just discomfort from so much swelling but I hear knees are harder!