One of the best day hikes in the Dolomites is by far the hike to Lake Coldai to Rifugio Tissi. The 6 hour roundtrip hike starts from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi. If you have one tough hike in you, this is the one to do.
“I wish we could stay here forever” said my seventeen-year-old daughter as she stood overlooking a view seemingly out of a fairytale.
It was our second day hiking in the Dolomites, and we were on one of the most awe-inspiring hikes of our lives. A hike from high above the Italian village of Alleghe passing under the extraordinary towering face of the mighty Civetta.
Just three weeks ago, I was in urgent care with my daughter who had sprained her ankle while doing tricks on her new skateboard right before a big hiking trip. I could hardly believe that we were here, in the Dolomites preparing to do a fairly challenging hike. “But younger bodies heal so much faster” her doctor said during a check up examination before the trip. And he was right.
We began our hike from the top of Col dei Baldi above the village of Alleghe to the stunning Coldai Lake, passing the northwestern flank of the mighty Civetta until we finally reached the Rifugio Tissi where we rewarded ourselves with homemade gnocchi before returning to Alleghe. On a clear day, the hike gifts some of the most spectacular scenery in the Dolomites and provides enough challenge to make it an incredibly rewarding, memorable experience. If you have one hard hike in you, this is the one you should do.
My daughter unfazed by her sprained ankle, marveling up at the Civetta.
I had grown up hiking with my own parents and it was my hope that my teenagers would also grow to love it as much as me. While we started with short hikes when the kids were younger it took some time for them to both fully embrace it and go without complaints. Last summer, we did our first real hiking trip to Alaska as a family and it was a big success.
After proving that she could definitely out hike me during our trip last summer to Alaska, my daughter was on board for a hiking trip to Italy and especially was up for the challenge on day two with a longer hike. My son had already discovered his love for hiking a few years earlier after experiencing hiking with me and my father around Mont Blanc. So it was decided that we would do a big hike on our second day in the Dolomites.
We set off early in the morning catching the first gondola up to the top of Col dei Baldi. We learned from our hike the day before, that you can either take the gondola up two stops from Alleghe or drive to Pian di Pezzè, park and take the gondola up to Col dei Baldi. It was cheaper for our family to do it the latter way.
After exiting the gondola, you follow a wide gravel path straight until you reach an old abandoned stone building and see a path (path 556) to the right that zigzags up the side of the mountain en route to the first Rifugio Sonino al Coldai. Many choose to do a shorter hike to the stunning Coldai Lake, a high alpine glacial lake. The roundtrip hike from Col dei Baldi to Coldai Lake and back takes roughly 3 hours and 15 minutes and is rated moderate. However, I highly recommend continuing to Rifugio Tissi for the out-of-this-world views of the Civetta’s northwestern flank. The hike there and back takes roughly 6-7 hours depending on pace and without stops (we did several along the way and enjoyed lunch at the Rifugio Tissi). It ranks as one of the best hikes I’ve done in years and is a must on a clear day.
