An Afternoon Birdwatching at the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge

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“Every ending is a beginning. We just don’t know it at the time.” -Mitch Albom

For our very last day in Costa Rica, we decided to take a full day tour to the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, a remote wetland known for its incredible wildlife, located about 12 miles south of Los Chiles and near the Nicaraguan border. We arranged for our guide, wildlife specialist Odir Rojas to pick us up at our hotel early in the morning to avoid the high heat and humidity of the afternoon. We also knew that the kids would rather spend the day at the pool instead of doing another long tour so this was our compromise.

Our two-hour drive to the refuge took us north through beautiful lush Costa Rican countryside, passing through tiny farming pueblos (“villages”) and along many gravel roads. Apparently most tours that leave from La Fortuna don’t go all the way into the reserve but only on the edge. Since we were staying in Rio Celeste and had our own private tour, we were able to go all the way in. It was definitely worth the effort!

Heading out to the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, passing through beautiful farmland.

The Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge is wetlands area consisting of a vast network of marshes and streams that drain into the Lago Caño Negro during the wet season. Given its unique ecosystem, the reserve is world renown for its excellent bird-watching especially the many species of migratory birds that seek sanctuary in this magical place. It is very remote and there are no public facilities at refuge, only a small family owned farm where we met our boat driver for the tour and were able to use the toilet.

I confess to being a bit surprised by the lack of development at the reserve but by this point nothing should have surprised me. It is rural, local tourism at its finest and thankfully there has been little adverse impact to this fragile ecosystem caused by tourism. The refuge remains hard to reach, off the beaten path and undeveloped. It is a true treasure.

We've arrived!
When we arrived I was surprised to see no tourist facilities. Only this house was there next to the river and farmland.
Our boat

Odir parked the Four-Wheel Drive in the shade under a tree. We were the only ones there. A young Tico walked up to greet us and we followed him a few steps to the river to board our boat.  We had the entire boat to ourselves so we were able to move around and get pretty close to observe wildlife. Our driver was very good at spotting birds from a distance and would cut the engine so we could quietly glide in without disturbing them. 

The Río Frío (which is the river we went tubing on the day before) is the main river that feeds the reserve and drains into the lake Caño Negro. Years ago, the river was so narrow and surrounded by jungle that the river appeared black in color which is why they named it Caño Negro. Over time, the river widened and now the color is more of a milky brown.

Out of Costa Rica’s estimated 880 species of resident and migrant birds, over 200 species have been found in Caño Negro during prime migration season. Once spring arrives and the dry season comes, the migrant birds head back to North America while some species stay year-round. Our timing could not have been more perfect.

Heading out on our tour
Gliding down the river
The Lake is filled with caimans and egrets.
Look what is lurking below
Pulling over to take a walk on shore
2 / 8

Some of the amazing birds that reside in the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge include boat-billed herons, roseate spoonbills, jabiru storks, kingfishers, ibises, herons, and egrets. There are also tons of caimans as well as iguanas, lizards, alligators, jaguars and monkeys. When the lake dries up in mid-April (during the dry season which is mid-April-November) many birds leave and head north. Odir told us that oftentimes the entire lake is completely filled without thousands of birds near the shore. I can only imagine how beautiful it would be to see a field of snowy white egrets!

Boat-billed Heron

Snowy Egret

Iguanas are everywhere

Basilisk also called the”Jesus Christ Lizard” as they can walk across water

Why not take a free ride?

After an hour and a half boat ride, the kids were losing steam. We had seen tons of birds – many which I can’t even name – but no monkeys or better yet a jaguar. Odir told us that he once saw a jaguar sneaking up on a caiman to attack. Apparently caimans are their favorite treat! Out of all my trips to the jungle, I have yet to see a jaguar. That must mean I have to go back!

We ended our tour with a wonderful lunch at a local restaurant about a twenty-minute drive away from the refuge. It was perhaps one of the best meals we had on the entire trip. Home-cooked grilled chicken with rice and beans. We reflected on the amazing nine-day adventure we had in Costa Rica. It ended up being one of the best family vacations we have ever taken. What made it so special is that there was a little bit of something for everyone. Zip-lining, canyoning, boogie boarding and swimming for the kids and nature, hiking, exploring and wildlife watching for everyone. After three separate trips to Costa Rica, I have fallen in love with this amazing country and I know that destiny will someday bring me back again.

I hope you have enjoyed all of my Costa Rica posts! To see all the posts in this series, click here. 

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42 thoughts on “An Afternoon Birdwatching at the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge”

  1. I. J. Khanewala – Nowhere-in-particular – I travel on work. When that gets too tiring then I relax by travelling for holidays. The holidays are pretty hectic, so I need to unwind by getting back home. But that means work.
    I. J. Khanewala on said:

    A basilisk! Never seen one. Thanks for the great photo(s).

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      They are so amazing and how they run across water! What a sight to see!

      Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      It was wonderful Sue! 🌟

      Reply ↓
  3. lulu – Houston, TX & Rockport, ME – I am a fiber artist with special emphasis on weaving, but I love working with threads and cloth in a variety of mediums. New ideas, new ways of connecting threads are the spice of life.
    lulu on said:

    I have enjoyed your Costa Rica posts which make me want to go back to catch up on what I missed!

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      I sure love Costa Rica! It is such a wonderful place. 🌟

      Reply ↓
  4. dwdirwin – Wife of Naggiar Vineyards winemaker Derek Irwin, mother to 4 active kids and one dog and newbie blogger!
    dwdirwin on said:

    I enjoyed my vicarious trip to Costa Rica- thanks!

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! So glad you enjoyed my posts! Hope you are feeling and doing well. 🙏

      Reply ↓
      • dwdirwin – Wife of Naggiar Vineyards winemaker Derek Irwin, mother to 4 active kids and one dog and newbie blogger!
        dwdirwin on said:

        Thank you! Doing well…we actually knocked one off the bucket list and took a trip to New Zealand with a stopover in Hawaii in June just after my oldest’s graduation. Another magical place- not sure if you’ve been, but it is absolutely awesome! 🙂

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Wonderful to hear!!! Yes my husband and I went to New Zealand for 2 weeks back in 2002 and it by far is one of my most favorite places on earth! Just haven’t made it back yet. 😌

  5. In addition to giving us many enjoyable pictures, you answered a question that has troubled me for years: why do claimants exist? To be eaten with delight by jaguars, of course! Those cats are awesome, third largest and great swimmers, like tigers. Keep them in the wild.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Ha ha love this! Yep they exist as a tasty treat for jaguars!

      Reply ↓

  6. Pingback: An Afternoon Birdwatching at the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge | necltr

  7. mistynites – New Zealand – My most prized possession is my passport, and I've emigrated to the other side of the world!
    mistynites on said:

    Fantastic wildlife photos. What an amazing family vacation.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks so much!

      Reply ↓
  8. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling. In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
    Alison and Don on said:

    You got some great photos Nicole. I love the one of the caiman directly facing the camera!
    Alison

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Alison!

      Reply ↓
  9. Dianne – Melbourne – Hello! I'm a highly sensitive person who has discovered the joys of iPhone photography and words 🌹
    Di on said:

    Hello Nicole,
    What a lovely and peaceful conclusion post.
    It’s been wonderful journeying with you and yes, this adventure certainly looked like there was something for everyone.
    Your photos included here are great and show the diversity there in Costa Rica…
    🌹🌹

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Di! I wish I could go back. I sure love Costa Rica!

      Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Janet!

      Reply ↓
  11. LisaDay – Toronto – I love words - editing, writing and reading them. Let's talk books. Follow me on https://www.facebook.com/BookTime584 ; Twitter @LisaMDayC ; instagram LisaMDayC and LisaMDayReads
    LisaDay on said:

    Those are really great shots. I like the Jesus Christ lizard. Funny.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thank you so much!

      Reply ↓
  12. claywatkins – northern Illinois – I work at making the days count - rather than counting them. I teach middle school science - 6th graders or 11-12 year olds - who teach me everyday about what is most important to them - and I in turn teach them what is most important to me. It is a Fair Trade.
    claywatkins on said:

    Beautiful photos – first time visitor. Certainly looks like you had a great vacation. The world is such a small place, there is so much to see, and do. Have a great week.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks so much for true comment and stopping by! I really love Costa Rica. It is quite a magical place with so much to offer

      Reply ↓
  13. restlessjo – Hi! I’m Jo! Johanna when I’m feeling posh, Jan to my Dad, and Joasiu to my Polish family. A bit of a mix-up, that’s me. The one constant, however, is my restless nature. I love to travel and to explore our world. It doesn’t have to be the big wide world. I can be ridiculously happy not too far from home, so long as I’m seeking new horizons. Of course I have a wish list, and it was to help me fulfil my dreams that I started to write travel guides for a venture called Simonseeks. I’d always kept a travel diary, and it was hugely satisfying to share my experiences and to make new friends who shared my passion for travel. Alas, Simonseeks hit a few troubles, but I still find myself writing about my travels. I’ve become addicted. I’d love to share them, and to make more friends. So, it has to be a blog- right? Or do I mean- write?
    restlessjo on said:

    Fabulous photos, Nicole, and a cute green frilly lizard. 🙂

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Jo!

      Reply ↓
  14. Madhu – Madhu is an Interior designer turned travel blogger on a long sabbatical to explore the world. When not crafting stories on The Urge To Wander, she's probably Tweeting @theurgetowander or sharing special moments on instagram.com/theurgetowander
    Madhu on said:

    What an amazing variety of fauna! And beautifully captured Nicole. Costa Rica has always been on my radar, your wonderful posts are pushing it higher on my list.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      I love Costa Rica! I was lucky to go in January and April and see two different parts. It is a magical place

      Reply ↓
  15. Tina Schell – I am passionate about photography, love traveling and exploring new places and faces, and seeing the world from different perspectives. My lens is always on the lookout for something beautiful or interesting.
    Tina Schell on said:

    Great nature captures Nicole – sounds like to saw and did it all – but there’s always more to see and do isn’t there? Especially love the lizard shots! Costa Rica is the only place I’ve ever been where I was able to photograph bats – YIKES!

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Tina! I enjoyed this place as I love birdwatching. I also liked seeing all the iguanas

      Reply ↓

  16. All those great bird images took me back there. I remember seeing an anhinga drying its wings and thinking what an unusual bird it was, only to find them all over Florida. I have heard of the basilisk but have never seen one, except in a Nat Geo special, where he walked across the water. This was a great series Nicole. Makes me want to go back to CR.

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks so much LuAnn! So glad you enjoyed the posts on Costa Rica. I want to go back too! I just love it there especially the Osa Peninsula.

      Reply ↓

      • We are kicking around the idea of going back to Costa Rica, and other parts of Central and South America next year. Osa Peninsula is on our radar.

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Oh that would be wonderful LuAnn!

  17. Playamart - Zeebra Designs – Ecuador – A visual artist, I enjoy a quiet life immersed in nature, most in Ecuador but also other areas of Latin America. These writings, photos and paintings give a glimpse into the life of the Zeebra and are copyright protected. Thanks for not infringing on my work! :) Z
    Playamart - Zeebra Designs on said:

    great post, great outing with the birds! if you’d like more identification in the birds i can help — i’m just finishing a late breakfast while in transit but will be in place tonight and thru the weekend.. time to roll, but wanted to give you a thumbs up!

    Reply ↓
    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Lisa! Yes I’d love help with the birds! I don’t always get the species all written down. Love reading about your new home in Ecuador.

      Reply ↓
      • Playamart - Zeebra Designs – Ecuador – A visual artist, I enjoy a quiet life immersed in nature, most in Ecuador but also other areas of Latin America. These writings, photos and paintings give a glimpse into the life of the Zeebra and are copyright protected. Thanks for not infringing on my work! :) Z
        Playamart - Zeebra Designs on said:

        Aren’t the snowy egrets lovely with their yellow boots?!!! They are similar to the cattle egrets, but the cattle egrets have a touch of caramel/reddish in some of their feathers – not as stark white…

        The large egrets are the Great Egrets. In other areas, there is also the Great White Heron, best identified by the color of their legs…

        Immature Little Blue Egrets are also white and about the size of Snowy Egrets – best identified by the color of the beak and the feet….

        When they have their feet hidden in the mud, it’s sometimes hard to distinguish!

        The bird doing the yoga stance is an Anhinga…
        The cute little ‘stumpy’ bird iis most likely a Ringed Kingfisher… There are several kingfishers, but most likely it’s a ringed.
        There seems to be a darker Anhinga after that – perhaps an immature between stages?
        The next is a Neotropic Cormorant…. easy identification between that and Anhinga is to look at the length of the bill…

        Great photos, btw!

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Wow you really know your birds Lisa! I bet after so many years living in Central and South America as well as you love of painting birds have really helped ! Thanks for the identification. Have you been to this part of Costa Rica before? I enjoyed it. I’d also love to get to the Caribbean side and make it down into Panama sometime.

      • Playamart - Zeebra Designs – Ecuador – A visual artist, I enjoy a quiet life immersed in nature, most in Ecuador but also other areas of Latin America. These writings, photos and paintings give a glimpse into the life of the Zeebra and are copyright protected. Thanks for not infringing on my work! :) Z
        Playamart - Zeebra Designs on said:

        If my friend Barbara were with us when you asked that question in person, we both would have burst out laughing…

        Oh yes.. We were staying ‘arriba’ upriver in the southern end of Lake Nicaragua.. I was on a visa border crossing, and we were tarpon fishing with a plan to go down Rio San Juan all the way to the ‘boca’ – where my friend who has a fishing lodge on the Costa Rica side – would pick us up… only there was no where to stamp us into Costa Rica… so because Barb was with me, I did not want to risk getting both of us in legal hot water – and we crossed into CR by boat at Los Chiles… what a wild few weeks, from Nica stories to the crossing, then to SjO by bus then overnight and then Nature Air flight to Rio Colorado Lodge on the north-eastern side…. The funniest parts are best told in person – for sure that will happen one day!

        It was a pleasure to provide identification on the birds!

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        I must come to Ecuador some day Lisa. I bet you and I would have a lot of stories to share! 🙂

  18. Pingback: An Afternoon Birdwatching at the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge | World4Justice : NOW! Lobby Forum.

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