Days 5 and 6 of the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu continued down the Santa Teresa River Valley, through ribbons of emerald-covered mountains, until we got our first view of Machu Picchu nestled into the mountainside. By this time in the journey, we were all fast friends, and our hiking was filled with laughter, gratitude, and friendship after sharing such an incredible experience.

It had been over 25 years since I first laid eyes on Machu Picchu, and I wondered how I would feel seeing it once again. I had heard over and over again about the challenges of overtourism to this UNESCO World Heritage Site and was curious to see how the Peruvian government was managing it.

On day 5, we set off after a hearty breakfast at our lodge (Colpa Lodge at 9,414 feet/2870 m), descending a meandering trail passing through fruit orchards, flowers, and glacier-fed streams. It was amazing how much the landscape changed as we neared the edge of the Amazon jungle. Just two days before, we were crossing the highest point of the trek –  the Salkantey Pass at 15,213 feet/4636m.  Now we were sweating and passing through fields of flowers and orchards.

Once at the riverbed, we had to take a short van ride to the start of the Llactapata Inca Trail, and that was honestly the least enjoyable part of the trek because the road was perched on the edge of the mountain, and it was terrifying (I am very afraid of heights). It was also the first time in five days that we were back in civilization after not seeing any trekkers for days. Despite the anticipation of seeing Machu Picchu again, I had the sad realization that our trip was coming to an end. Also a hard feeling when you’ve been having the time of your life!

Before reaching our last lodge of the trip, the Lucma Lodge (7,003 feet/2135 m), we stopped at an organic coffee plantation in Lucmabamba, where we got to try our hand at roasting coffee beans the traditional way.

Then it was a fun evening at the lodge with incredible views once again of the surrounding mountains.

On Day 6, we left early for another five-hour hike, which would be our last hike of the trip. Today’s hike would give us our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.

The hike itself was rougher due to the humidity and heat. We climbed roughly 2 hours up through the cloud forest on a path comprised mostly of original Inca steps. When we reached the tree line, the views were glorious.

My daughter sits and admires her first glimpse of Machu Picchu nestled into the emerald green mountains.

We took a break at the viewpoint. It is hard to tell in the photo above, but this was our first glimpse of Machu Picchu tucked within the canopy of jungle off in the distance from the Llactapata Pass (8974 feet/2735 m.

Our final descent zigzagged down along the Aobamba River, passing through lush bamboo forests, fruit orchards, and coffee plantations. We were all feeling tired of hiking by that point, yet excited about the day to come: Our visit to Machu Picchu.

Yet the day’s excitement was not over.

To reach the town of Aguas Calientes, the launching off point for visits to Machu Picchu, we had to take an hour train ride. The Peruvian government had made the ride quite the show! The staff did a full-blown fashion show and performed music and dance, entertaining its weary, tired, and sweaty tourists. I have honestly never seen anything like it before!

Finally, towards late afternoon, we reached Aguas Calientes on the banks of the Urubamba River at the base of Machu Picchu.  It had been 25 years since I was last there, and I was stunned by how this once small, ramshackle town had turned into a full-blown tourist destination. Fancy restaurants, hip cafes, and beautiful hotels now lined the street, and it was packed with tourists. My heart sank a little bit, remembering what it was like before social media. But I was still excited to see it again.