Machu Picchu
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Salkantay Trek Last Stop: Machu Picchu

There is something special about reaching a destination on foot. After six glorious days of hiking the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, we finally reached Aguas Calientes after a short one-hour train trip from the end of our hike.  The last time I had been to this town was over 25 years ago, when I hiked the Inca Trail with my dad.  I was flabbergasted by how much it has changed.

It is no secret that Machu Picchu (UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983) has struggled with overtourism. In 2024 alone, over 1.5 million tourists visited (a 58% increase over 2023), and it is only expected to get worse.  As the biggest tourism attraction in Peru, tourism brings in a huge chunk of revenue for the country. However, of course, it comes at a cost. With thousands of tourists descending on the site each day, erosion has become a significant problem, and one can argue that so has Machu Picchu’s cultural integrity.  In 2025, the government set a maximum visitor capacity that varies by season: 5,600 daily visitors during peak season (May to September) and 4,500 during low season (January to April and October to December). Tickets must also be purchased online for strict time-slotted entries and for one of the three different circuits of the site. If you don’t get a ticket in advance, you may end up in a long line that goes for blocks and have to wait sometimes for days for the next open time slot. None of this was in place when I went in November 2001.  However, many experts believe that they are not doing enough to safeguard this national treasure. With the upcoming opening of a new airport (Chinchero International Airport) located only 18 miles away from the site, I fear that it will never be the same again.

Arriving in Aguas Calinentes after the solitude and near emptiness of the Salkantay Trail was a shock to the senses. There was a long line of tourists waiting to hopefully purchase a timed-entry ticket to Machu Picchu.

Peru South America TRAVEL TRAVEL BY REGION Trekking/Hiking
Na’atik Language and Culture Institute
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The Best Way to Learn Spanish: Immersion, Culture, and Connection in Quintana Roo, Mexico

Finding the right Spanish language school can make all the difference in how quickly and how deeply you learn a new language. While apps and textbooks have their place, nothing compares to learning directly from native speakers, especially in an immersive, in-person environment. That’s where Na’atik Language and Culture Institute stands out. Nestled in the heart of stunning Quintana Roo, Mexico, Na’atik offers a unique opportunity to study both Spanish and Maya with local instructors who bring language to life through culture, conversation, and real-world connection.

Whether you choose to learn on-site or join their flexible online programs, you’ll experience a more meaningful, authentic path to fluency. Best of all, Na’atik Language and Culture Institute gives back to the local Maya community, making this program a win-win situation for both the traveler and the locals (which rates high in my books). While I’m a huge fan and daily user of Duolingo, nothing is better than practicing with a live person.  Learn more in this Q&A with Na’atik Language and Culture Institute founder Catherine Gray.

Na’atik Language and Culture Institute

A student group visiting Na’atik Language and Culture Institute in Mexico

CULTURE
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Days 5 and 6 of the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

Days 5 and 6 of the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu continued down the Santa Teresa River Valley, through ribbons of emerald-covered mountains, until we got our first view of Machu Picchu nestled into the mountainside. By this time in the journey, we were all fast friends, and our hiking was filled with laughter, gratitude, and friendship after sharing such an incredible experience.

It had been over 25 years since I first laid eyes on Machu Picchu, and I wondered how I would feel seeing it once again. I had heard over and over again about the challenges of overtourism to this UNESCO World Heritage Site and was curious to see how the Peruvian government was managing it.

Adventure Travel Peru South America TRAVEL TRAVEL BY REGION Trekking/Hiking