The last day of our hike along the Kumano Kodo was from the remote village of Koguchi to Nachi Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo and the most stunning. It ended up being a grueling hike, taking 6 long hours with the first two hours being straight uphill. (Total hike: 9.2 miles/14.8 kilometers).
The hike ended with a bang and was much harder than I anticipated.
For some reason, this was harder than the 8.5-hour hike two days before. The weather was becoming a bit more humid (thank goodness it was only early June), and the incline up was much more difficult than it looked.
While I struggled through the tough, humid uphill grind (periodically wiping the sweat dripping off my face with my shirt), wy kids and husband whisked by me, not one bit bothered. I confess I was a bit grumpy, but decided to give myself some grace. I was 53 years old and had just had not one but two major surgeries in the past two years. My last surgery – my second hip replacement – was only six months ago, and I was still not back up to my prior fitness levels before.
While I trudged up the mountain, I took some time to reflect on the trip. Although it was the last hike of our trip, it was a culmination of something much bigger. Was it the last time we’d be hiking together like this as a family? Was this the end to my blog, Thirdeyemom?
I’ve written this blog for 16 years, starting it when my children were very young. For the past 14 years, I was a stay-at-home mom, dedicating my life to raising the kids, and I only recently returned to the workforce. While those years were hard, they were some of the best years of my life, and I feel absolutely blessed to have had that opportunity.
My life has dramatically changed this fall. The kids have both left home to pursue their own futures (Max studying Aerospace Engineering and Sophia studying Neurobiology), and the transition after all these years with them at home has been hard. I miss them dearly.
I also realize that time has crept up on me as I look in the mirror and see the gray hairs lining my face. Life seems to be going on high speed, and I often wish we could just slow down the clock. Time goes faster and faster every single day. It is frightening. But there is nothing more to do but accept it and be grateful and mindful of each day.
As the hours passed by, we finally neared a lookout point where we were rewarded with a stunning view of the ocean. Finally, we were almost there, and I was grateful.
After a handful of steep steps, we finally descended to the end of our pilgrimage hike at the Nachi Grand Shrine and the Seiganto-Ji Temple. The 40-minute hike down the Daimon-zaka slope (a 600-metre staircase made of stone) is one of the most beautiful sections of the hike, yet I was too tired to take any photos. I can only picture it now – months later – in my memory.
Finally, we arrived in Nachi-san, the name of the small village surrounding the Nachi Grand Shrine and the Nachi-no-taki falls. It was stunning.
The Nachi Grand Shrine traces its origins back over 1,400 years, with worship at the site believed to have begun as early as the 4th to 5th century, and formal shrine buildings were established by the 8th century. Perched high in the mountains along the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, it blends Shinto and Buddhist traditions and overlooks the sacred Nachi Falls—the tallest single-drop waterfall in Japan. Its vermillion halls and forested setting reflect centuries of spiritual devotion, making it one of the country’s most enduring and revered sacred sites. It is a breathtaking sight to see.
We did not get many pictures as a family to end the trip. We were all too tired and wet with sweat. But it was the perfect way to end an amazing journey. A journey we took as a family to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary, our daughter’s graduation from high school, and a memorable time well spent together as a family in nature.
Still hiking, Nicole! And still pretty young to have had all those amazing experiences (though the 2 hip replacements could be a consequence of all that hiking- who knows?) You’re sure to miss the kids, but it’s time to do stuff just for the two of you. Like you say, it goes… fast! I’m 20 years ahead of you xx
Ahhh thanks Jo! I have struggled with keeping up with the blog with all this stuff going on in life. Yes it goes fast! It is so scary. I am grateful for what I’ve had. The hips were most likely due to me being born with an issue as I wore leg braces as an infant so who knows. But I am grateful to be able to hike and do what I love. Hope you are doing well! 🙂
RUT!
Wow, looks like a very tough hike, but then again those are the ones that are always the most rewarding aren’t they 😊! Your Kumano Kodo pilgrimage sounds perfect, and to be able to share with your family is the best… and also impressed by your ability to find gratitude amid personal transitions and challenge. Great photos as well, I like the one peering up at the steep trail with the trees in perfect position along the way. Inspiring, I want to head out and hike even with cold and poor weather 😂. Cheers to a great Thanksgiving week, and start to the holiday season.
Thanks Dalo! I had to finish writing this series as I am so behind! My daughter and I actually did the Salkantay trek in Peru in August and I just returned from hiking the Atlas Mountains in Morocco (to celebrate the one year anniversary since my hip replacement). A lot behind me and more ahead. I look forward to relaxing and being grateful for family this season. Happy Thanksgiving to you as well! 🙂 Thanks for always inspiring with your beautiful, poetic writing and glorious photos. I always look forward to reading your stories! 🙂
Great pictures 👍👍 We have to admit, we are happy that we read about it, but didn’t do this hike. It’s nice to enjoy it from a comfy chair.
Thanks for taking us there
The Fab Four of Cley
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
Thanks so much for reading and the comfy chair sounds fabulous!:)
That last day did have a very long uphill stretch! I might have grumbled a little myself …
Unfortunately, we had rain almost that entire last day and never even got that long-awaited peek at the Pacific! Fun to see the trail again through your eyes.
As far as the empty nest goes, I am sure you will pull though with aplomb. You have outside interests and some work to do, and those will both help you through the early days of the kids being gone. One day you will suddenly see this as your new normal; it’ll be both sad and happy, but alas, life goes on!
Yeah that last day was rough. It feels like so long ago now that we did this trip! Life continues to move forward faster than ever before, doesn’t it? I still have two trips I haven’t even written about yet so I guess I’m staying pretty busy these days. Happy Holidays Lexi and thanks for always reading! 🙂
What a beautiful reflection — not just on a hike, but on an entire season of life. The way you’ve woven the physical climb with the emotional transitions you’re living through is incredibly touching.
Thank you for sharing this. It’s heartfelt, honest, and deeply resonant.🙏🏻
Thank you for reading it! I often think about quitting the blog as it takes time and effort but I am always glad I continue. I appreciate the nice comment! 🙂
As we get older, life does seem to move even faster, doesn’t it? Thinking about it can be scary, for sure. But probably the less we think about it, the less stressed out we become. Easier said than done, I know. I’m really happy that you were able to go on this trip with your family before your children get busier with their own lives. Memories from such an adventure will live forever.
Yes so true Bama! For me it is so hard to believe how long I’ve done this blog too. While finding the time to write on here is not easy I can’t imagine giving it up. All this work after so much time. You, me, James and some of the others all started around the same time and I’m glad that there are still some of us around blogging in the face of all the other things that can get people’s attention. 🙂