Thirdeyemom

Kilimanjaro: A rest at Kosovo before the Summit Push

Author’s note: This post is part of a series on my recent trip and climb of Mount Kilimanjaro, to read all posts click here

“I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear”. – Nelson Mandela

Shortly after a hot lunch, we left Barafu Camp at 14,930 feet (4,550 feet)  – the normal setting off point for the summit attempt – and continued on one hour up to a higher, lesser known camp called Kosovo where we would sleep a few hours before our midnight rise to climb to the top. Few people know about Kosovo Camp and staying there instead of at Barafu saved us an ugly first hour straight up climb at the onset of our quest to reach the top.

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The hike was steep, rugged and tough, giving us all a small taste of what we had in store for us early the next day as we attempted to summit Kilimanjaro at Uhuru Peak. As we left camp and continued up, it was astounding to look down upon the clouds and realize just how far we had come.

Barafu Camp Machame Route Kilimanjaro

Leaving Barafu Camp. The trail proceeds straight up slippery rock behind us.

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Barafu Camp Machame Route Kilimanjaro

Barafu Camp Machame Route Kilimanjaro

And also just how much more we had to go to reach the top of Kilimanjaro.

Barafu Camp Machame Route Kilimanjaro

View leaving Barafu Camp.

Our group of nine split off into different smaller pace groups for the last bit of the climb. As we hiked up to Kosovo, I kept thinking how glad I was that I wouldn’t have to do this additional work at midnight. It wasn’t easy and gave me a little glimpse of what tomorrow’s six-hour climb to the top would be like. The only major differences would be that it would be freezing cold, pitch black, higher in elevation and in the middle of the night meaning I would be running on little sleep. I hoped my adrenalin would kick in and my nerves would go away.

“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go”. – T. S. Eliot

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

The long and winding road….

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

It was so barren up this high. There was no sign of life except for those of us crazy enough to attempt to climb Kilimanjaro and still smile about it.

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

Only a short while later, thankfully Camp Kosovo appeared. It wasn’t very populated and there were just a few other groups there besides us.

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

Kosovo Camp with view of the top behind us.

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

It was time to get organized for the big push. I tried desperately to relax but had a hard time. Did I pack the right gear? Would I have the proper number of layers on? Would I be freezing cold? Would I be ok? These thoughts continued to loom through my head while I tried to get a few hours of sleep before my midnight rise.

I had only done a middle of the night climb once before in Nepal and it was brutal. I tried to push that memory away and save it in the back of my mind. But the memory of that dark, cold night climbing up in single file numbness made me weary. I had never been so cold in my life.

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

 Kosovo Camp Machame Route Kilimnajaro

I’d be lying if I wasn’t just the teeny bit scared.

 

 

25 comments

  1. This is one marvelous post…not to mention adventure! I know a guy who did this climb, an older guy in his sixties. I would have liked to have tried it years ago. And yeah, I hate being cold, and worry about that. I have one question: wouldn’t it be easier to come up the mountain from the other side, the right side instead of traversing it the whole way across? I know, I know, there must be a good reason, but what is it…ravines, lava, monsters?

  2. Pingback: Reaching up to the sky on top of Kilimanjaro | Thirdeyemom

  3. Catching up on your Kili blogs:) I would have liked to shave an hour off our midnight night hike to the summit, I wish we had stayed at that camp! After hiking Kilimanjaro it is hard to say that there is anything you can’t do now!

    • Yes that was so incredibly helpful especially because that hour was brutal. I hate not getting enough sleep too. It was a hard night but you are right, not much else you can’t do now!

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