Kilimanjaro: Day 4 Climb to Karanga Camp

 

I was relieved and rewarded by finally getting a good night of sleep. I couldn’t believe how good it felt! It was my first real solid sleep in over a week. I am sure that my body had finally given in due to mere exhaustion after a week of travel, jet lag and sleepless cold nights on the mountain.

I woke up feeling invigorated to start the day’s climb, a relatively strenuous yet short hike up and over the Barranco Wall to Karanga Camp at 13,780 feet (4,000 m). Our group set off early trying to beat the long lines of people climbing up the narrow path. The first hour of the hike was a bit frustrating. If someone in front of you stopped to rest, the entire long queue of hikers below would have to also stop and one thing is for certain when I hike, I don’t like to stop unless I absolutely have to.

Trail marker showing us the way.

Pretty wildflowers

Saying goodbye to Barranco Camp as the morning sun rose up over the mountain.

I was relieved that overall it wasn’t too insanely crowded on the mountain. Every night there were perhaps a couple hundred people at each camp and summer is generally high season for Kilimanjaro climbs. The only time of year that it is worse is on New Year’s Eve when thousands of climbers attempt to summit to bring in the new year.  For me, I find the experience much more peaceful and enjoyable when there are less crowds. I feel much closer to nature and its delicious solitude when I’m alone or in a small group. Unfortunately, the first hour of the hike up the narrow trail of the Barranco Wall would prove irritating but once we passed the lines of people it was nothing but wide open space.

Climbing up the Barranco Wall

Looking down at our campsite

Parts of the climb involved using fingers and hands to pull oneself up the rock. Hiking poles proved frivolous and just got in the way. I remember my friend Neha’s lovely analogy about the necessity and use of hiking poles and how it relates to life. Some days a climb requires a little support and other times you just use your own hands. This part of the climb, we were all on our own.

Once we scaled Barranco Wall, the climb was much easier, affording spectacular views of the valley below. I felt like we were resting on top of a pillowcase of clouds.

We arrived at our camp well before lunch, much earlier than usual, and had all afternoon to rest and relax. A nagging part of me wanted to continue on the next 3-4 hours to the next camp, Barafu, which is what the 6-day Machame Route follows (We were taking the 7-day Machame route meaning we would spend the night at Karanga Camp instead of the next camp, Barafu). There are pros and cons of doing the climb in six verses seven days. If you do it in six days, you are closer to getting back to a normal bed and a shower, however, it is much more exhausting. If you take the seven-day route, it is longer and you are exposed to sleeping outside for one more night but there is a greater chance of acclimatization and hence success rate at reaching the summit.

As we walked, the landscape became barren once again with little or no vegetation. All that remained was brownish-black rock. 

And a well-worn trail.

Then finally we saw signs of life once again. Our campsite was near.

The location could not be any less beautiful than the last. I could feel that we were in for another magical night.

Looking up behind us at the peak!

View from inside my tent

The all too familiar camp life…

And my new friends…

One of our young waiters

The porters always know where to find the hot spot for receiving cellphone calls.

When in Tanzania, join them!

Me with the porters trying to make a call home.

It was a much more relaxing day than the rest. I was glad we had an entire afternoon to take it easy before the big summit push. I would soon discover that the sunset views would be equally spoiling again. I was getting used to living in the clouds.

26 thoughts on “Kilimanjaro: Day 4 Climb to Karanga Camp

  1. SnowdonStudent – Hi there, I'm Callum (aka SnowdonStudent), I'm a 21 year old history student at Bangor University in Gwynedd, Wales. I started this blog basically to share my adventures with people and to encourage others to experience and write about their own travels. Living in North Wales I have ample of opportunity to escape into Snowdonia National Park where most of my writings take place, it is my dream to inspire more people to visit this stunning landscape.
    SnowdonStudent on said:

    wow, simply incredible, to camp above the clouds…

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes it was quite surreal and to do it for seven days!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Amy! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes of course. This is probably my sixth post on the trip so feel free to look at my past posts on Kilimanjaro and share. 🙂

  2. Pingback: Kilimanjaro: Day 4 Climb to Karanga Camp | Fly by Sanaba Tours

  3. charlieeasterfield – North West Ireland – I am an Artist, sculptor, calligrapher, photographer, teacher and environmental activist, living in the North West of Ireland, where I built a large timber home and studio in 2000, and developed a flourishing garden. Also: Bi-polar, veering between slob and perfectionist!
    charlieeasterfield on said:

    Wow! I’ve missed a lot of your posts, but this one’s great…look forward to reading more!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! I have a lot of great posts on the trip with even more spectacular photos! Check them out if you can! 🙂 Thanks for stopping by!

  4. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling. In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
    Alison and Don on said:

    Beautiful. I can really feel how much fun it must have been to be in camp with plenty of time to relax and chat with other climbers.
    Alison

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Alison! It was so gorgeous. Now it is all a distant memory. Kids just started school last week and am trying to play catch up!

  5. Nicole, how cold was it at night? Also, did the porters have to carry enough water for the entire hike or was there a place along the climb to get fresh water? And I can only imagine those latrines. Phew. Was everything carried back down the mountain? It looks pristine and very clean.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      I would imagine it was anywhere from 15-25 degrees but I’m just guessing. It is hard to know. All I know is that at dinner when the sun set, I had on long underwear, two jackets and many layers and some nights was still cold. As for the water, they have water the entire way except for one part of the trek which they have to carry. It was very clean as everything is picked up and carried, all trash. We had our own “tent toilets” which were cleaned every single day so they actually weren’t bad. They were portable. I never used the “tourist latrines” but that is what Nepal is all about!

      • Thanks, Nicole. I am so fascinated by your climb. Brrr…I get goose bumps just thinking of getting out of a toasty sleeping bag in the morning.

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        After I figured out what to wear I was ok in the morning as the sun was up. Going to the bathroom in the middle of the night however was the worst! It was so cold and took so much energy to get out of the bag, dressed and out of the tent and back in again. My least favorite part of the trip.

  6. lexklein – I’m a restless, world-wandering, language-loving, book-devouring traveler trying to straddle the threshold between a traditional, stable family life and a free-spirited, irresistible urge to roam. Even when I was young, I always wanted to be somewhere else. I was the kid who loved camp, vacations, sleepovers, and all forms of transportation. Did my restlessness spring from a love of languages and other cultures? From a fiction fixation and all the places I’ve visited on the pages of a globeful of authors? I think it’s more primordial, though, an innate itch that demands scratching at regular intervals. I’m sure I won’t have a travel story every time I add to this blog, but I’ve got a lot! I’m a pretty happy camper (literally), but there is some angst as well as excitement in always having one foot out the door. Come along for the trip as I take the second step …
    lexklein on said:

    Ooh, scaling that wall looks fun! I always love a good rock scramble! And after that, I was surprised to see how flat it was! I guess Kilimanjaro does look like that when I think about it – a wide base to get up, then lots of flat (or flattish) before what almost looks like a separate mountain perched on top.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes so true. There are parts of where it is flat for a little bit and then other parts that are rather steep. Except for the summit day, it really isn’t too incredibly steep. I’ve done much worse! 🙂 What you are seeing as the peak that looks like a separate mountain is the summit. It is all done in one long night/day pretty much!

  7. wwwpalfitness – Hello my name is Paul and I used to write quite often and I missed it, so I decided to start this blog. I plan on publishing on Kindle with some of my specific writings. I am a bit of a wiseguy, have a mouth on me but I do curb my language in my writing but comments are another thing. My writing material is also quite varied. I hope you enjoy my posts. I am a long island based personal trainer and coach with over 25 years of experience. I have been a multiple time County Champ in various events, a State Champion and All American in both High School and College. I have also had injuries that have aided me in understanding how to train myself and others and have helped 1000s of clients attain and surpass their goals. I had my first certification in 1989 and my most recent is with ACSM. I work with people from all walks of life, ages, fitness goals and needs. <!-- Put this code anywhere in the body of your page where you want the badge to show up. --> <a href="https://www.fiverr.com/paul1mc" rel="nofollow"> paul1mc Fiverr Seller Hello my name is Paul McAleavey and I live in New York, specifically and sadly Suffolk County but not much longer. I am a Word press blogger, help create websites, I do marketing and SEO. My blogging is fairly frequent and I am very diligent in getting my work done quickly and efficiently. Paul </a>
    wwwpalfitness on said:

    Reblogged this on wwwpalfitness and commented:
    Very cool stuff

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks so much for sharing!

      • wwwpalfitness – Hello my name is Paul and I used to write quite often and I missed it, so I decided to start this blog. I plan on publishing on Kindle with some of my specific writings. I am a bit of a wiseguy, have a mouth on me but I do curb my language in my writing but comments are another thing. My writing material is also quite varied. I hope you enjoy my posts. I am a long island based personal trainer and coach with over 25 years of experience. I have been a multiple time County Champ in various events, a State Champion and All American in both High School and College. I have also had injuries that have aided me in understanding how to train myself and others and have helped 1000s of clients attain and surpass their goals. I had my first certification in 1989 and my most recent is with ACSM. I work with people from all walks of life, ages, fitness goals and needs. <!-- Put this code anywhere in the body of your page where you want the badge to show up. --> <a href="https://www.fiverr.com/paul1mc" rel="nofollow"> paul1mc Fiverr Seller Hello my name is Paul McAleavey and I live in New York, specifically and sadly Suffolk County but not much longer. I am a Word press blogger, help create websites, I do marketing and SEO. My blogging is fairly frequent and I am very diligent in getting my work done quickly and efficiently. Paul </a>
        wwwpalfitness on said:

        You’re welcome

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the post!

  8. How wonderful it must be to be looking down on the clouds. Must feel like floating. 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes LuAnn! It was pretty spectacular to be above the clouds like that. Every night I was mesmerized. 🙂

  9. maamej – Australia – I'm a single white Aussie mum of anglo-celtic background with a teenage son whose dad is from Ghana in West Africa. I’m blogging to share experiences, insights & funny stories about living in a mixed family. I also blog about health, politics, culture, racism and food.
    maamej on said:

    I love that picture of the climbers taken from below & also the flowers. Looks like every day is better than the last. I’m imagining with some yearning how fresh the air must have been.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      That is one of my most favorite pictures too. Yes, the air was amazingly fresh and clean. My lungs felt amazing. 🙂

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