It is not possible to wake up at 4:30 am, hike a volcano and not follow up with an immediate visit to most popular natural spa in all of Guatemala. The plan to go immediately to Fuentes Georginas proceeding my volcano climb popped into my head during the knee-aching, slippery descent of Santa Maria. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend the remainder of the day, rewarding my tired body and soul, and soaking in one of the four hot pools of Fuentes Georginas located in the mountains nearby.
View from the Top: Xela lies thousands of feet below.
“Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” -Ed Viesturs climber and author of “No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks”
After my surreal experience on top of Santa Maria volcano, witnessing my first live volcanic eruption just a few thousand feet below my perch on a jagged rock, it was time to say goodbye. Heading back is always the anti-climax of a hike, especially a good one in which you reach your peak and for that moment in time you are on top of the world. But as I always say, all good things must come to an end. It was time to head back.
The start of our descent….you can see terraced farmland first, followed by the town of Xela far below.
“No matter how sophisticated you may be, a large granite mountain cannot be denied — it speaks in silence to the very core of your being”. —-Ansel Adams
Around 10:30, five hours after starting our hike up the dark and slippery path of the Santa Maria Volcano we had finally arrived at her pointed peak. The clouds had started to form and blanket the valley of Xela thousands of miles below. Yet fortunately they hadn’t fully conquered the peak. There was still a spectacular view of the surrounding volcanoes and valley beneath.
As we approached our resting spot for an early lunch I was perplexed by a low humming sound. The sound of voices, high and low, big and small, filled up the empty open space around me. As we come closer to the noise I realized with amazement that it was a human chain of chanting. The Mayans were singing their prayers to their gods. The voices of their chants flowed smoothly together making a monotonous tone at times, entrancing me and captivating my soul.
“The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it…” – Antoine de Saint-Exupery
View of the grand Santa Maria volcano off in the distance as I was leaving Xela via shuttle on my way to Antigua.
There are things you’ll experience in Guatemala that will stay with you forever: the smell of a freshly grilled tortilla; the assault-on-all-senses of a jungle trek; the people you bump into on the road and become lifelong friends…..In the west, a volcano looms on almost every horizon, almost begging to be climbed. (Opening lines in the introduction to Guatemala, Lonely Planet 2010).
It was with these words, “almost begging to be climbed” that I joyously opted to skip my already-paid for Spanish class on Wednesday and wake up at the break of dawn to climb Guatemala’s fourth highest volcano, Santa Maria (elevation 3772 m/12,375 feet). It didn’t matter that I was utterly exhausted nor that I didn’t have the right gear. All that mattered was there was an enormously, inviting volcano begging to be climbed. There was no way I wasn’t going to climb it.
Just a short note to let you all know that I had the most spectacular day today in Guatemala! I rose at 4:45 am and set off in complete darkness to climb the fourth highest volcano in Guatemala, Santa Maria at 12,375 feet/3772m. It was so intensely beautiful that it made me melt. When we got to the top of the volcano a few hours later, I saw my first ever live volcano eruption right across the way at Santiaguito Volcano. Here it is….
There are two other options for climbing The Santa Maria Volcano. One is you start at 11 pm and do a moonlight hike and watch the sun rise over the neighboring volcanoes (there are tons!) but it is very very cold. The other is a 2 or 3 am start and you arrive just as the sun rises over the volcanoes. Apparently if you do the night hike you can see the brilliant red lava gleaming from a neighboring volcano!!!! If I was here a little longer than a week, I would have definitely done it. I can’t imagine how amazing it would be to see burning live lava in the darkness of the night!
Stay tuned…This is just a quick “postcard” summary of my trip. I took over 150 pictures today of the amazing volcano, countryside and farmland. Of course I need to edit and write it all up as a post! That will be when I return!
Photo above taken on our last day in Auckland, New Zealand. The sun was shining warmly and spring was in the air. November 2002.
Never in my life had I not wanted to leave a place and return home than during my two weeks in New Zealand. The pure beauty and laid-back, carefree life of New Zealand was effecting me in an utterly positive way. Going back was not only depressing but a dreadful thought. For it was the start of a long, cold Minnesota winter and worse yet, I was heading back to perhaps the worst job I’ve ever had in my life. Even more depressing of a thought!
Have you ever had a job that was so miserable that you could barely crawl out of bed each morning? A job that left you in tears as you walked out the door? That was the job I had back at home and the last job I have on my resume before becoming a full-time mom. It was one of those awful situations in which I was tainted forever about working for small companies. I am thankful every day that I don’t have to go there and try to erase the entire experience out of my memory.
Anyway, if I could go back to New Zealand I would be sure to visit a few key areas that I never had a chance to see: Cook Mountain, Abel Tasman National Park and of course I’d do the Tongariro Crossing. Since the world is such a big place and there remains so many other interesting countries to visit, I don’t know when I’ll be back. But someday I will!
Stay tuned…countdown to Guatemala is now five days. I will be flying to Guatemala City and taking a bus (I am hoping now a “Chicken Bus”!) to Xela in the highlands. I am doing a home stay, taking Spanish classes in the morning and volunteering “up the mountain” in the afternoons at an indigenous school. I am also really looking forward to meeting fellow WordPress blogger Lucy Brown of LocaMotion! See what happens when you blog! Friends around the world and if you are lucky, you can even meet them in person!
If you don’t hear much here on this blog, I may be using thirdeyeworld instead to do some “postcards” while I’m away. We’ll see! 🙂
With an unexpected, unplanned day ahead of us due to bad weather at the Tongariro Crossing (see earlier post), we discussed our options with our B&B hosts Peter and Grace who enthusiastically informed us of nearby Waimangu Volcanic Valley located near Rotorua.
Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley is the hydrothermal system created on 10 June 1886 by the volcanic eruption of Mount Tarawera, on the North Island of New Zealand. It encompasses Lake Rotomahana, the former site of the Pink and White Terraces. It was the location of the Waimangu Geyser, which was active from 1901 to 1904. The valley contains Frying Pan Lake, which is the largest hot spring in the world. – Wikipedia
The world’s youngest geothermal system and the “must-do” tourist attraction in the area, Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley is definitely a thrill to see. There are tons of tour agents offering daily visits to the area but of course Paul and I wanted to do it on our own and chose the best way to see the area: A hike.
We drove first to the town of Rotorua, whose abundant thermal activity makes the entire place smell like rotten eggs! (Perhaps you get used to it when you live there!). The town was way too touristy for my liking yet it was indeed fascinating. Our stay was short, however, as we wanted to get a hike in and knew that most of the tourists would not be following us.
We followed the trailhead for a short hour and a half hike up and back. There was not a soul around, the way I like to hike and the views were impressive.
Start of the hike.
Hot steamy water. Wouldn’t want t take a swim in there!
Interesting greenery given the location!
View at the top of the Waimangu Volcanic Valley.
The park proved to be a great day hike. It was my first visit to a geothermal valley and I was amazed by the lava lakes, hot volcanic streams and the unique curiosities the place.
As the afternoon skies began to clear we wished we had one more day in the area to do the Tongariro Crossing. That night we saw it, finally, while we were eating dinner at a restaurant in Taupo. We took a sip of our cold beer and thought…next time.
Here it is, the Tongariro Crossing in the background.
Stay tuned…one last post perhaps on New Zealand. Then I’m off on a new subject if time permits before heading off to Guatemala on March 3rd. This time I will remember to take loads of pictures! 🙂
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing in Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand‘s most spectacular tramping tracks, and is considered the most popular one-day tramp in New Zealand. The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site which has the distinction of dual status, as it has been acknowledged for both its natural and cultural significance.
The crossing passes over the volcanic terrain of the multi-cratered active volcano Mt Tongariro, passing the eastern base of Mt Ngauruhoe which can optionally be climbed as a side trip. The 19.4 km (12.0 mi) walk is renowned for its barren yet beautiful “moon like” volcanic landscape, unusual geological features, visible volcanic activity and views of the surrounding countryside below.
-Description per Wikipedia
Photo of the Tongariro Crossing accredited to Wikipedia Commons.
Today was the day that we were heading back to Auckland to begin our exploration of New Zealand’s North Island. We had already used up well over half of our vacation in the South Island and were reluctant to leave because we loved it so much. The South Island of New Zealand is a magical, beautiful place that is a true outdoor enthusiast’s heaven. We could have easily stayed there forever but of course had to get back to reality and move on.
Our flight from Christchurch to Auckland left bright and early which was a good thing because we really didn’t leave much time to spare in our itinerary. We arrived at the airport, proceeded to gather our luggage and rental car, and then were off once again heading North to Lake Taupo, in the central north part of the island.
The drive was as beautiful and serene as we’d come to expect with New Zealand. Honestly, we were getting quite spoiled. Yet, the surrounding landscape of the North Island was quite different than the South Island which made it all the more pleasurable.
The major reasons behind the differing landscapes has to do how each island was formed. The North Island was formed by volcanic activity whereas the South Island was formed by glaciers. As you can imagine, the terrain is vastly different. While the South Island is lined from north to south with the snow-capped mountains of the Southern Alps, the North Island is graced with extinct volcanoes, geysers, hot springs and less lush vegetation. It is more rugged and raw while the South is more lavish, green and majestic. The stark contrast between the two islands make it a necessity to visit them both.
The drive to Lake Taupo took a little under three hours and we timed the drive so we could play a round of golf upon our arrival. With the exchange rate being so incredible (this was 2002 remember), we were able to play the Waikai International Golf course, rated in the top 20 in the world at the time, for only $50 each! Although we were both out of practice, we still enjoyed the challenging course and I tried not to get too incredibly frustrated by how poorly I played. The sky had turned gray and overcast yet at least it wasn’t raining.
We arrived at our B&B “The Loft” which was located outside the town of Taupo around seven o’clock and were pleasantly welcomed by the owners Peter and Grace. The B&B was outstanding and by far the nicest one we had stayed at during our trip thus far. It had only three rooms and felt more like a house than an inn. Our hosts Peter and Grace were wonderful and a tremendous help.
By the time we got back to town for dinner it was approaching nine o’clock and we were famished. I started to get rather agitated as I’m known to do when I don’t eat on schedule (I know, not a good habit, but my appetite is rather routine). I was about ready to start eating my arm when the waiter casually walked over and saw my look of distress. Instantly a bewitching smile crossed his handsome face as well as a look of concern. Kiwis cannot stand stress and they generally want everyone to relax and enjoy life as the Kiwis do. So what did he do? He turned around, left and came back with an ice cold bottle of local Sav Blanc (my favorite) and set it down on our table. This is what he said:
You’re in New Zealand. You’re at a great place, with a great guy. So why don’t you just relax. Here’s a bottle, on the house.
Then he gave me a wink and left. Wow, I tell you, did that make my night. I could never imagine a similar scenario playing out at home in the US. I loved the laid-back, carefree life of many New Zealanders. I wondered why I had fallen into that American trap of worrying too much about everything and not just letting go. Ahh…I wish I could live in New Zealand!
We had an excellent dinner at Nannie’s, right on Lake Taupo. The wine flowed steadily, the conversation was light and hearty and I learned a valuable lesson that night. That sometimes it is time to stop and smell the roses. Otherwise life will just pass you by.
Stay tuned…Next post: Our big day! We are scheduled to rise before dawn to do the eight-hour Tongariro Crossing hike. It is rated one of the top hikes in New Zealand!
With one day left on the South Island and yet another spectacular blue sky, Paul and I decided to hit the road and take a day trip to the nearby village of Akaroa, located about 54 miles/87 kilometers from Christchurch. Akaroa is the oldest town in Canterbury, founded by French settlers in 1840, and is a wonderfully quaint, beautiful village nestled in the heart of the Banks Peninsula. We had also heard that the area offered many opportunities for excellent “tramps” (or hikes as we call it) as well as ocean cruises to see New Zealand’s unique marine wildlife.
We headed out early in the morning choosing to take the “scenic route” in our rental car. Apparently there are two ways to Aakora: One easy and relatively straightforward, and the other more spectacular, yet rugged. We took the latter. It wound up being a harrowing hour and a half drive from Christchurch but well worth the incredible views.
Here is the description of the route we followed per the New Zealand Tourism Guide:
There are two routes to Akaroa. State Highway 75 takes you via Lake Ellesmere and Lake Forsyth before it climbs over the hills to Akaroa Harbour. The other route is very scenic, but longer and more difficult to drive. It takes you through the Lyttelton tunnel and around Lyttelton Harbour before making the rugged, cross country journey to Akaroa.
Photo taken during our “tramp” in the Banks Peninsula with the sheep looking on.
Ok, I know I was going to jump into the North Island of New Zealand but I found a few more pictures and stories that I forgot to include on the South Island. I guess that’s what happens when you are writing about a trip that was ten years ago! So let me back up here and return to where I left off in the Milford Sound. To read the last post on exploring the Milford Sound click here.
We rose early to the morning sun coming over the serene Milford Sound. It was yet another glorious day and not a soul was in sight. Paul and I enjoyed our last hour of solitude while we sailed back to shore where we would be boarding the oddly shaped Real Journeys bus back to Christchurch.
Everyone was tired and quiet on our long ride back to Queenstown. I for one looked awful, like I’d been punched in the eye. Actually I had an unfortunate encounter with a sand fly (that nasty thing bit me hard!) the day before while I was kayaking in the Sound and my left eyelid had swollen up like a balloon! That was a fun one to explain to a bunch of strangers!
We arrived in Queenstown by late afternoon and headed straightaway to the tourist office. We had one more thing to accomplish in Queenstown: Our very last adrenaline-pumping activity, Jet-boating. Luckily there was one last ride of the day. If we hustled, we would be able to catch the 5:30 pm jet-boat on the Shotover River just outside town. I should have been scared when I met our driver, a twentysomething Kiwi with a dangerous grin on his boyish face. But “no worries” as they love to say in New Zealand.
This is part II of the series “Under the New Mexican Sun”. For part I, click here.
My daughter Sophia and I truly enjoyed our morning at the fabulous Albuquerque Zoo where we were truly able to get up close and personal with the animals. Instead of a sad place, it was a happy environment full of life and in close contact with nature. There were several times when it was just Sophia, myself and the big, black hairy gorillas peering over at us and questioning. It was surreal how humanlike the apes were! We could have spent an entire day at the zoo exploring yet there was more of Albuquerque that I wanted to see, namely the infamous Old Town.
Historic Old Town is the heart and soul of the city. It was built over seventy years before the American Revolution in 1706 by the Spanish and remains relatively unchanged. The centerpiece of Old Town remains the city’s oldest building, the Felipe de Neri Church which was constructed adobe-style in 1793. The main square is centered around the church and contains charming, tree-shaded side streets and alleyways full of art galleries, shops and restaurants. The adobe architecture is marvelous and I could have spent hours wandering around. Yet we only had a short time before we had to head back to the airport to catch our flight.
I had read the following descriptions of Albuquerque’s art and culture in the visitor’s guide, and it was easy to see what they meant. Art was everywhere!
“Authentic art reflects the city’s history, culture and creative spirit, blending centuries-old traditions and contemporary life in urban Albuquerque”.
This one is my favorite (from the visitor’s guide again) as it is a very accurate description of this enchanting city:
“Art is everywhere in Albuquerque: in world-class museums, in artist-owned galleries and in outdoor public places. The city is a tapestry of unique architecture and signage, from Pueblo Revival-style buildings in Old Town to pulsing neon signs on old Route 66”.
On our way to Old Town from the zoo, a meager couple of miles, I stopped numerous times to snap photos of some of this “al fresco” art. Murals were everywhere—-on abandoned building, sides of small shops and homes. It was fabulous! Poor Sophia sat in her car seat asking me why I kept pulling over, getting out of the car and bouncing with joy at each masterpiece. “Look at this art! It is beautiful” I beamed. “Yes mama” Soph replied. “Can we go now”? She’s only five…what a trouper!
Here are some of my favorites…..
