Marrakesh is one of those cities that takes you by surprise. I had been to Morocco before visiting its capital city of Rabat and also Casablanca. Yet once I arrived in Marrakesh, I realized that I hadn’t been to the real Morocco.
Marrakesh, the fourth-largest city in Morocco, located at the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains and one of the country’s four imperial cities, is a place that requires the use of all five senses. From its elaborate, colorful, and endless souqs to its eye-popping architectural treasures, and the plethora of smells, sounds, and oddities of its main square, Jemaa El-Fnaa, Marrakesh is a city that will inspire you, overwhelm you, and keep you exploring its endless serpentine streets until your feet ache.
Lovely view from my riad
I arrived in Marrakesh alone, one day before joining a five-day trek of the Atlas Mountains, and honestly, that first day by myself was the most challenging. First, I was seriously jetlagged, arriving at my riad around early afternoon and having no sleep for the past 24 hours. Second, I was a Western woman traveling solo (it would take me just an hour to turn my midwestern Minnesota nice into the “my polite no’s and avoiding eye contact with aggressive male vendors mode” to ensure I wouldn’t get continually accosted. Third, I had arrived mostly for the trek and hadn’t read a thing about what to do in Marrakesh. I thought I’d just want to see a few things and be satisfied, but oh, was I wrong. The moment I stepped out the door of my riad and entered through the imperial wall of the heart of Marrakesh, I was enamored. It was magical. I realized right then and there that Marrakesh offered every single thing I truly love about travel and more. In order to experience the city the best I could with only two short days, I’d have to wing it and take some chances.
The infamous (one of many) spice shops found in the souq
The first few hours in Marrakesh, I walked around in a dreamlike trance, mesmerized by all the colors, sounds, smells and sights. Since I was relying on no sleep, I had let my guard down, which was a mistake.
Within ten minutes of leaving my riad and setting foot into the city, an unpleasant experience happened. I was not paying attention to my surroundings when I was greeted by a young teenage boy who convinced me to follow him to the “best part of Marrakesh”, a special market that he assured me was only open on Sundays. Against my intention of following the small map my friendly front desk worker at the riad had printed out for me with directions to the center of town, I followed him, knowing it was probably a stupid idea.
He led me to his friend’s shop, who showed me their spice collection along with their special face and hand creams that promise everlasting youth. I was too tired to argue so I thought I’d just buy a small pouch of saffron and be on my way. Not paying attention to the exchange rate, suddenly the pouch of saffron was going to cost me upwards of $200! I instantly realized my mistake, and put it back politely with a smile, and said instead I’d take a $4 bar of handmade soap. While they weren’t too pleased, I learned my lesson, and from that point on, I simply ignored the endless calls to buy something. Bartering is a part of life in Morocco, and if I was going to enjoy Marrakesh I had to learn to play the game and navigate the culture.
The beautiful lattice woodwork found in the souq
I continued walking back to where I intended to go, to Jemaa El-Fnaa, the heart and soul of the city, trying to watch where I walked so I wouldn’t get run over. The craziness of the old city and its narrow, winding souqs filled with fast-driving motorbikes made walking and sightseeing feel like a risky endeavor. There were several times when I nearly missed getting hit, and it was a miracle I survived that first jet lagged day.
I heard the square before I even arrived (it is hard not to!) with its jingling music, drums, guitars and horns. Jemaa El-Fnaa is a sight to behold, and quite frankly, I was not prepared for its overstimulating craziness that first day. Snake charmers bedazzled the crowds, while colorful fruit stands and vendors lined the streets, calling out the best prices and offers to passersby. It was one of the most chaotic, overwhelming places I’d been, and by six pm, I realized I had had enough. My head pounded. It was time to grab a bite to eat and get a good night’s sleep so I could enjoy the next two days.
The good news is that I actually did do some small planning beforehand. For the first full day in Marrakesh, I had booked my own local female guide through Greether, an online platform that connects female travelers with local female guides to provide safe, inclusive, and empowering travel experiences. Its mission is to promote cross-cultural understanding and peace through travel. I had heard about Greether online and actually interviewed the founder, Vanessa Karel. on my blog awhile back. The next morning, I rose early with excitement and anticipation for the day knowing I would get a proper tour of Marrakesh,
My guide, Khadija, met me right at my riad around 9 am, and instantly I felt at ease. Our plan of attack that morning was to visit a few of the historical sites (there are many!), then explore the souqs and sample some local food. I felt much more confident with Khadija.
We first visited the Palais Bahia, a 20th-century building with stunning architecture, located right near our riad. We learned the importance of arriving right at opening for many of the city’s important sites to beat the crowds of tourists and long entrance lines. Then, we spent the rest of our time together getting lost inside the Medina’s endless souqs, an adventure in its own right.
Palais Bahia is so incredible that it is hard not to stop taking pictures. Here are just a few of the ones I took of this immaculate palace.
It is said that many of these streets aren’t even on a map, and I could see why. It felt like stepping into an entirely different world, a labyrinth of ever-winding narrow streets, filled with shops selling everything under the sun. The colors, smells, sounds, and textures of the place make it easy to feel overstimulated. But after an hour with our guide, I felt better and even was able to start bargaining for some gifts to bring home. We also sampled many different local foods and sweets, which were part of the adventure. By the end of the day, I knew where I wanted to spend the rest of my time in this exhilarating city and felt a little more relaxed (if that is possible in Marrakesh).
Dinner was at a super cool jazz club called La Pergola where I sampled chicken tagine, freshly made hummus and even a glass of wine. Being a Muslim country, few places sell alcohol but I managed to find a few favorites with outdoor rooftop terraces overlooking the city.
The Jazz club was amazing at La Pergola
Day two included a visit to the stunning Ben Youssef Madrasa, The Saadian Tombs, and Le Jardin Secret. Again, it is best to start the day early before the crowds form. Given the cheap flight and short distance for Europeans, Marrakesh was very busy with tourists.
What I loved most about the city is its rich architecture that blends Islamic, Berber and European influences. I loved the intricate tile work and geometric shapes and patterns found inside the buildings. I took tons of photos and videos yet it was hard to capture the magic I felt in Marrekesh. I was grateful I’d have another day there after the hike to do some shopping and exploration. Little did I know that I’d spend a lot of my last day in Marrakesh lost (even with google maps!). I didn’t do everything I had planned but ended up doing a few other perhaps even better things such as getting henna done at a henna women’s coop where I got to met some Berber women practicing their art and English. When I was lost and asked a shop owner directions to a museum, I ended up buying an engraved bracelet from the owner that matched another bracelet my husband gave me years ago. I never made it to the museum because then I found a cool, quiet rooftop terrace to enjoy a glass of wine overlooking the Medina.
In the end, I had a blast but realized that two unplanned days in such an amazing city were far too short. I spent so much time getting lost and not doing what I had set out to do. Yet perhaps that is half the fun of traveling. Throwing away the guidebooks, and simply just being there, wandering, and taking it all in. That is the true experience, isn’t it? In today’s highly structured and fast-paced world, sometimes the best experiences are the ones with no plan or map.
My lovely souvenir
Next up: Four Days Hiking the Atlas Mountains