There is something special about reaching a destination on foot. After six glorious days of hiking the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, we finally reached Aguas Calientes after a short one-hour train trip from the end of our hike. The last time I had been to this town was over 25 years ago, when I hiked the Inca Trail with my dad. I was flabbergasted by how much it has changed.
It is no secret that Machu Picchu (UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983) has struggled with overtourism. In 2024 alone, over 1.5 million tourists visited (a 58% increase over 2023), and it is only expected to get worse. As the biggest tourism attraction in Peru, tourism brings in a huge chunk of revenue for the country. However, of course, it comes at a cost. With thousands of tourists descending on the site each day, erosion has become a significant problem, and one can argue that so has Machu Picchu’s cultural integrity. In 2025, the government set a maximum visitor capacity that varies by season: 5,600 daily visitors during peak season (May to September) and 4,500 during low season (January to April and October to December). Tickets must also be purchased online for strict time-slotted entries and for one of the three different circuits of the site. If you don’t get a ticket in advance, you may end up in a long line that goes for blocks and have to wait sometimes for days for the next open time slot. None of this was in place when I went in November 2001. However, many experts believe that they are not doing enough to safeguard this national treasure. With the upcoming opening of a new airport (Chinchero International Airport) located only 18 miles away from the site, I fear that it will never be the same again.
Arriving in Aguas Calinentes after the solitude and near emptiness of the Salkantay Trail was a shock to the senses. There was a long line of tourists waiting to hopefully purchase a timed-entry ticket to Machu Picchu.
I honestly felt a little guilty visiting Machu Picchu, given its precarious status. Yet for me, it was the journey itself, hiking all the way in Soraypampa and traveling for six days on foot through some of the most stunning landscapes on the planet, that meant the most to me. Plus, I was sharing this special experience with my daughter, which made it even more memorable.
Six days, 45 miles of trekking later, we made it.
The morning of our visit, we rose with plenty of time to spare for our short ride up on a tourist bus to the Citadel of Machu Picchu. It felt nothing as dramatic or magical as the experience of waking up at 4 am from a tent high in the Andes and arriving on foot at the sun gate high above from the Inca Trail (plus the fortitude of having the site all to ourselves). Things have obviously changed in the past 25 years! Now, there are large groups of travelers with their guides and the chatter in dozens of different languages as you walk through a standard route of the ruins.
A panoramic view of the site. The Incas chose the most remote, sacred part of the Andes to build Machu Picchu. The high mountains form a natural open valley with a perfect perch in the midst where they could build their shrine. Machu Picchu was built on a rocky enclave with steep, thousand-foot drops off the side, making it difficult to reach and impossible to see from the nearest town, Aguas Calientes, located thousands of feet below. No wonder the Spanish never found it, leaving it hidden for over 400 years. An amazing feat!
Once at the site, our fabulous guide Claudio gave our group a personal tour, pointing out the amazing feat of engineering and architecture it required to build such a magnificent complex, all perfectly aligned with the sun, moon, and stars.
So much mystery remains about the Inca civilization. What they do know is that Machu Picchu was built around 1450 AD for Emperor Pachacuti (the ninth Inca ruler), who wanted to expand his kingdom, and the site was abandoned in the 1500s during the Spanish conquest. How the massive site was built in such a remote location tucked within the side of a mountain remains unclear. The entire structure was made without mortar and was designed to withstand earthquakes. Just looking up close at the large stones makes you wonder how on earth they got there and how they were shaped so perfectly to make this incredible shrine to the Incas. It is truly unimaginable.
Claudio informed us that Machu Picchu was not “discovered” as some older books claim. In fact, the local people knew that the site existed, yet they left it alone. It wasn’t until 1911 that the site received international attention when American explorer Hiram Bingham went on an expedition to the area searching for the so-called “lost city of the Incas”. (I actually read his book before going on my first visit to Machu Picchu in 2001). Then the rest is history.
This is the view of where we came from over the past six days of trekking to Machu Picchu. It was the journey of getting there, each step of the way, that made the trip so unforgettable.
As I sat on the grass overlooking Machu Picchu, I had a few moments to reflect on the significance of the trip. Much of what my local guides said about the Incan civilization is how incredibly intelligent they were and how misunderstood their knowledge was by the Spaniards. Throughout Peru, in the ruins in Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu, their advanced knowledge of architecture, astronomy, and agriculture in their terraced structures astounded me. It was also a little frightening how this incredible civilization, like so many others before us, has been wiped out by mankind.
I desperately hope that the opening of the new airport near Machu Picchu won’t be the start of the end.
A bit of an anticlimax, Nicole, which seems a contradiction in terms when related to Machu Picchu. Lovely to see you and your daughter hiking together though xx
Yeah, honestly for me the journey through the mountains was my favorite part. Probably because I’d seen Machu Picchu before at a time when there was hardly anyone there. I will never forget waking up in the darkness, and arriving at sunrise at the site. No one was there except us! This time felt so different since we arrived in the town the day before, and then took a tourist bus up to the site (along with many other tourist buses) then got in line with people to enter. A very different experience.
However, being able to do this trip with my daughter meant the world to me. It was so magical and special to share it with her. 🙂
Looks like maybe you stayed at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel? I went a long time ago also (I think 2007), but one of your photos reminds me of the place we stayed in Aguas Calientes. Sad that the surroundings have grown so much and flooded the site with visitors. Did you climb Huayna Picchu?
Yes that was the hotel we stayed at! I loved it. It is beautiful. Was it busy in 2007? I was stunned by how many people were in Aguas Calientes compared to what it was like when I went in 2000. I did feel that they managed the visit to Machu Picchu alright as we still enjoyed it. I honestly thought the crowding would be worse. I did not climb Huayna Picchu this time as I did with my dad back in 2000 and I was terrified! I don’t like heights or climbing when there is such a huge drop off the face of the mountain. However, the views were glorious. Did you climb it? Did you do the Inca Trail hike when you went? When I did the Inca trail in 2000, it was very rustic and basic and we stayed in tents, all got sick and those tiny steps killed my knees. I loved the Salkantay trek much more. The views were insane and we had the trail to ourselves for most of the journey and then of course the lodges were incredible. I would do the hike again just for the journey and beauty. 🙂
I did find Aguas Calientes busy but I’m sure it pales in comparison with today’s crowds. Like you the first time, we hiked in through the Sun Gate on the traditional Inca Trail hike and anything would have felt crowded and busy after that rustic hike! Three of us (two older kids and I) climbed Huayna Picchu and it was indeed pretty scary at times. My husband and younger son said no thanks! We really are tempted to do the Salkantay trek someday! Your photos of MP actually look like you were the only ones there! I think they made a good decision to limit the numbers even though there are probably still too many feet plodding through there.
I confess that I loved the Salkantay Trek so much and it ranks in my best hikes list. A big part was the incredible lodges and also having most of the hike and trail to ourselves. Yes, our visit wasn’t too bad and we did get nice shots without the crowds. I hope they continue to limit it as if they do, even with the new airport, people would still have to wait and plan well in advance. 🙂
RUT!
It sure brings back memories! You would not imagine how much Aguas Calientes has changed. Now it is filled with nice cafes, restaurants and bars. A far cry from what it was like when we arrived dirty, sweaty and in need of a shower! Andiamo!
Thanks for pictures and info. We visited Machu Pichu in the 70s and enjoyed it very much. Your picture brought back great memories.
Wishing you a happy weekend
The Fab Four of Cley
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
Wow that must have been quite the experience to have been there in teh 70s. I imagine there was hardly anyone! Thanks for stopping by and reading. I appreciate it! 🙂 Nicole
Hi Nicole
There were some tourists there but not many. In comparison Palenque was more touristy then.
Kb 🙂
Thanks for sharing! 🙂
I wish I had gone to Machu Picchu many years ago. But at least now I know I have to manage my expectations when I eventually visit this site. The opening of a new airport so close to this site is indeed concerning. It’s good that you and your daughter were able to go together to Machu Picchu before the new airport is open!
That is how I feel about so many places in the world Bama, especially all the incredible ancient sites near you. Tourism has skyrocketed and it is almost impossible nowadays to feel like when you visit a place, it is way too overcrowded to enjoy it. I have read that there are many other not so popular Incan ruins in Peru where you could still witness the greatness of the site without the crowds. I’d love to see more. Thanks as always for stopping by and commenting. 🙂
I never made it to machu pichu, Nicole, but you can’t do everything! I’m so glad I went to some interest places before tourism really took off. Sad to hear that there is going to be a new airport near Macchu pichu…., that was surely ruin the site
Thanks for the comment Sue! I was glad to have been there but as I mentioned it truly for me was the journey through the Andes that was the most special. I love the mountains so much and find a lot of spirituality there. I felt the Incan presense there the most. I am sad to hear about the airport as at least MP is still hard to reach and requires time.
Hope you are doing well! 🙂