“There is pleasure in the pathless woods, there is rapture in the lonely shore, there is society where none intrudes, by the deep sea, and music in its roar; I love not Man the less, but Nature more”. – Lord Byron
By four o’clock, I was hot, dirty and exhausted after such a thrilling day that begin with watching the sun rise over the Osa Peninsula and ended with a six-hour remote trek through the thick jungle of the Corcovado National Park. I can’t quite remember ever having a past twenty-four hours so incredibly invigorating and succinct to Mother Nature. I’d seen sloths, a troupe of collared peccary, pizotes, a mating pair of scarlet macaws, monkeys and more. Yet best of all, it was only us and the wildlife. Not another soul had ventured into this part of the park and for that I was truly blessed.
We left Dos Brazos de Rio Tigre saying goodbye to our newly made friends and traveled the short distance down gravel roads to a locally-owned eco lodge located on the outskirts of town, surrounded by tropical rainforest jungle. I would soon discover that the Amazonita Lodge was the ultimate nature lover’s paradise.
The Amazonita Lodge in Dos Brazos is run by a local woman named Zulay, who is not only the manager and caretaker of the lodge but also a masseuse. I was instantly drawn to Zulay’s warm, charismatic personality. She welcomed us into the lodge with open-arms and of course a cup of Costa Rican coffee. We would be staying at the jungle cabins a short distance up the hill from Zulay’s house. Little did I know what a delightful surprise I was in for!
The property is set up against the border of the Corcovado National Park and is surrounded by lush tropical jungle. There are three open-air cabins that can each accommodate a family of six or more depending on the cabin you get. All the cabins are complete with a large open-air kitchen and dining area, a queen bed and bunk beds, and a bathroom. There are no walls enclosing you. Instead, the casas are open to the splendors of the jungle- bugs, noises, animals and all.
After checking in with Zulay, we drove up to the car park at the end of the gravel road, and there was a handprinted sign pointing to the three different cases: Casa Zephyr, Casa Zenon and Casa Philae. I would be enjoying Casa Zenon, a cabin that sleeps six, and it was just for me.
My casa was up a flight of stairs with nothing but jungle behind me. Throughout my stay, I frequently wondered what was looming around me hidden in the thick rainforest canopy and foliage. This was a thought that didn’t escape my dreams at night.
And when I arrived, this is what I saw: Paradise in the jungle! (Check out this brief video footage of my amazing cabin in the jungle).
I had no idea at all that I would be staying in an open-air cabin set up high in the jungle all by myself. It brought back vivid memories of my night sleeping in a tent all alone in the heart of a Maasai community in rural Tanania. Yet at least I had a wall around me. This place was completely open to all the joys and dangers of the jungle. Not only the animals but also the snakes, the spiders and the insects.
It was absolutely amazing! I had never seen anything like this place. I could have spent a week here exploring the beauty of the jungle, hiking the Corcovado National Park and taking my afternoon baths in waterfalls. But alas, I only had one night.
We had a wonderful home cooked meal by Zulay of fish, rice and beans and a delightful sweet creamy desert. Then after dinner, I went up to my cabin to have a one-hour massage by Zulay. I closed my eyes and listened to the melodic sounds of the jungle, falling into deep state of relaxation and peace. The feeling was intoxicating and I felt divinely at ease.
I said goodnight to Zulay, enjoyed a cold Costa Rican beer on the porch and wrote about my day by candlelight in my journal. By ten o’clock it was time for sleep. I was utterly exhausted after a day that began at three in the morning. As I turned off the light and pulled the mosquito net over my bed, I wondered whether or not animals ever entered the casas. There were no walls so it would be pretty easy for a puma or a snake to slither on in. Did spiders climb mosquito nets? Had there ever been any attacks on humans at night by some nocturnal beast? Would a bat hover over my head at night or a poisonous snake slither over the wooden floor? These ridiculous thoughts circled around my sleepy head until I finally pulled up the covers over my face, feeling a bit more protected and fell into a deep deep sleep. It was pure bliss.
This post is a continuation of my epic trip to the Osa Peninsula. To read the last post “The Osa Peninsula’s Crown Jewel: Corcovado National Park” click here.