In the hills of Kathmandu Valley lies the ancient village of Panauti, renowned for its culture, traditions, and well-preserved Newari architecture. At the heart of the community is the Panauti Community Homestay a women-led initiative that started in 2012 and later became one of the founding members of the Community Homestay Network (CHN). Today CHN has spread to 36 communities throughout Nepal, creating hope, inspiration, and opportunity for rural communities worldwide.

Shila rose just before sunrise as the golden ray of light bathed the rice and potato fields outside her window in a brilliant ethereal light. The morning air was still, as Shila put on her slippers and tiptoed to her kitchen. She prepared a cup of masala tea, and a plate of flowers, colored rice, and sweets for her morning puja, an offering to the Hindu gods. She did not have time for her daily meditation this morning. Instead, she would be preparing for the arrival of her guests. 

Shila had to clean her house, collect the fresh vegetables for the upcoming meals, pick flowers for our garlands, and ready her attire, draping her crimson red saree over the couch to let the humid monsoon air unwrinkle the fabric. Soon she would meet with the other host “mamas” of the Panauti Community Homestay to prepare for our arrival. 

At the top of the foothills of the Kathmandu Valley, our group of adventurous travelers had just witnessed a mesmerizing Buddhist prayer service at the sacred Namo Buddha monastery and were preparing for our next, exhilarating experience: A 10 km bike ride down from the monastery’s Himalayan perch through the rural villages, potato fields, and stunning landscape to Panauti, a historic Nepali city renowned for its culture, beauty and mystique, where we would meet our homestay mothers. 

It had been fourteen years since my first trip to Nepal, a truly life-changing experience that launched my career as a writer and established myself as a lifelong wanderlust. Now in the prime years of my life, at 52 I wondered if another trip could be as transformative as the first. 

Over the next two days of my homestay, I’d learn to reconnect with my past self and develop deeper insight into what it means to be a strong, independent woman, all through the eyes of my host mother who not only opened up her home but also her heart, showing me a strength and compassion that transcends borders. 

The ride

As we began the descent down Kathmandu Valley, I could hardly breathe, it was so steep. I clung onto the brakes with an iron grip, afraid to inhale in fear that I would topple over the handlebars of my bike. Yet once the terrain leveled out, I let the adrenaline rush take over. I lessened my grip, coasting down through undulating hills of rice and potato fields, passing through rural villages with a nod of the head and a namaste. I embraced my newfound joy while capturing a glimpse of daily rural life in Nepal. A life very different from my own. 

We passed by farmers transporting seedlings from flooded rice fields, women carrying burlap sacks of potatoes on their backs, and villagers enjoying conversation over a cup of tea. An hour and a half later, we pulled off alongside the banks of the Punyamati River, riding over the suspension bridge into the heart of the ancient 13th-century Newari town of Panauti.

The arrival

As we entered the extraordinarily preserved Indreswor Mahadev Temple Square, we were welcomed by the song of the Dhime Baja  (traditional Newari drum) and the clashing of the cymbals. The host “mamas” of the Panuati Community Homestay were waiting dressed in Haku Patasi sarees (the traditional red and black sarees worn by Newar women) with warm, welcoming smiles across their faces. One by one, we were greeted with a red tika placed on our forehead (known as the “third eye”) and a marigold garland wrapped around our neck.

As part of the Community Homestay Network program in Panauti, I would be staying with Shila Amatya and her family in her home, along with fellow traveler Sara. I could not believe my luck. Over the next two days, I’d learn the inspiring story of how Shila became the first woman to open her home to travelers in 2012 sparking a movement that has empowered women and changed lives across Nepal. 

The Pioneer

Shila was born in the Terai Lowlands of south-central Nepal near Chitwan National Park where she met her husband Ashok Amatya, who was working as a tour guide. Over a home-cooked dinner of Dal bhat (Nepalese lentil curry and rice), Shila sat down with us at her kitchen table to tell us the story.  

“It was a love marriage,” confided Shila with a smile, “which was unusual at the time, and a little difficult because we are from different castes. I am Chhetri and Ashok is Newar. However, we made it work and after our marriage, we moved 200 km away to Panauti as it is the tradition in Nepal for the bride to move to her husband’s hometown”.  

Ashok began working as a guide in 2002 with Royal Mountain Travel taking him frequently to the Himalayas for long trekking trips. Like most Nepalese women, Shila spent her days rising before dawn to clean the home, prepare meals, and care for her young daughter while her husband was away. 

It was through his work as a guide at Royal Mountain Travel that Ashok met Shiva Dhakal  (the founder), and they quickly became friends. During a visit to Panauti to attend a family festival with Ashok, Shiva experienced Panauti differently by being part of the community’s celebration. While he had visited Panauti several times before, this time he realized what a beautiful, meaningful experience it was and how much Panauti has to offer travelers. Panauti is close to the capital city, filled with history, beauty, and culture. Yet few tourists have experienced Panauti or more so, real Nepali life. 

 

Shiva had come from a large, close-knit family in rural Nepal and understood the power of family, tradition, and community empowerment. He also believed strongly in the socio-economic importance of community tourism as a way to showcase the culture and beauty of lesser-known rural destinations in Nepal and use travel as a force for good. After decades of working in the tourism industry with Royal Mountain Travel, he witnessed the profound ability of community tourism to uplift lives. With this ideology in mind, Shiva came up with an inspiring idea.   

Shiva recommended to Ashok that he and Shila receive some of their Royal Mountain Travel trekking guests at their home, in one of their spare rooms to share their culture and experience life with a local Nepali family. They began taking in guests and it was a win-win situation. Travelers loved the meaningful, authentic experience and Shila earned additional income to support the home. 

Slowly, Shila and Ashok convinced other women to open their homes to travelers. It wasn’t easy in the beginning as the concept of homestays was new. However, women began to see the positive impact it was making on Shila’s life, and they were more willing to give it a try.

Over time, the concept stuck and the movement grew. Travelers loved the experience of seeing the untapped beauty and diversity of Nepal, and the women involved in the homestay earned additional income and were empowered.

In 2012, ten women from the community joined forces to run the Panauti Community Homestay, and in 2017 after positive feedback from both the community homestay women and the guests, Shiva launched Community Homestay Network (CHN). 

CHN is a social enterprise that supports a network of community homestays throughout Nepal. CHN connects travelers with communities across Nepal, providing a unique opportunity to stay with Nepali families and immerse in real Nepali life. At the same time, local host families get the opportunity to share their culture and landscapes with travelers while gaining access to a sustainable source of income through tourism. The authentic experiences CHN offers travelers are created to have a positive impact on Nepali communities, women, and families, as well as on the travelers themselves. Best of all, all the homestays and experiences are created by the community. They are community-driven and community-led, by women. Today, there are 362 households in 36 communities impacting the lives of over 1748 people, and it all started with Shila’s home. 

“All over Nepal there are 36 homestays and I started this” Shila told us proudly during the second night at her home. “Slowly it expanded all over Nepal. I’m so happy, I thank God I have this opportunity, for me and my family.”

After tea, we moved into the family room, and Shila’s 20-year-old daughter, Amy, joined the conversation. As Amy artfully applied earth-toned henna on me and Sara’s arms, Shila continued her story. “Slowly over time, the movement grew. My friends wanted to join because they saw what I was doing and were inspired. In 2015 we developed other community offerings for our guests such as a community hike and then the Panauti Bike station for our cycling tours. We employ almost 50 people in the community and the network has grown to 15 houses.”

Even Shila’s daughter Amy is involved and has worked with the tightly-knit group of homestay mamas for the past four years. While she just received her degree in Information Technology, Amy supports the Panauti CHN as often as she can by giving community tours.  Shila is now the President of Panauti Community Homestay, and as the pioneer of one of the most successful, women-led community homestays in Nepal, she and her team have trained other women in and outside of her community sharing entrepreneurial skills and how to run a successful homestay.

The impact

The Community Homestay program has been life-changing for Shila and the other Community Homestay mamas. The socio-economic empowerment of the program has been incredible for everyone involved. 

“In Nepal women are always on the backside, meaning working inside the house and taking care of children, cleaning and cooking, and only the husband makes money,” Shila told us. “With the Community Homestay Network, women can earn income for the first time. We can spend money on our children’s health and education. We no longer have to ask our husband’s permission to buy something. We even have our own bank accounts. It has been incredibly empowering.” 

The program has also given women a voice in their community along with leadership and entrepreneurial skills. Moreover, it has lifted women’s status and respect in a patriarchal society. 

“In our society, women are not always respected but now I am, ” Shila confided to Sara and me. “People in the community now know who I am. While the project is small, I am very proud. I have big things in my life now, the local government is supporting me too”. 

Another benefit of the program is it promotes sustainable tourism by bringing travelers to lesser-known destinations, easing the tourism strain on the environment, and showcasing cultures and traditions that are unique to each community. As more and more youth leave the villages for work and education in Kathmandu or abroad, traditional life, culture, and heritage are being lost. “Nepal has over 142 ethnic groups and castes all with their own culture, language, dress, food, and traditions” Shila informed us. “Each one is different and must be preserved, which we are trying to do”. Community Homestay Network mamas design programs to promote and safeguard these traditional arts, cooking, dance, music, and more.   

During our stay in Panauti, we did many activities designed by the Panauti Community Homestay mamas with preserving their unique culture and heritage in mind. We had a traditional purse-making class where we learned the techniques used by the women’s grandmothers. We also participated in a cooking class hosted by our CHN mamas in their kitchen where we prepared momos (a traditional Nepali steam-filled dumpling).

Photos of our home cooking night with Shila (dressed in a red tunic). The last photo is Sara (Left) and me (right) dressed in traditional sarees for the last night, a Newari feast.  

We ended our visit with a large Newari feast featuring over 15 traditional Newari foods accompanied by dancing performed by two young girls in the community.  “By doing these programs, we ensure our culture and traditions are not lost,” Shila told us. “The two young girls dancing during the feast learned this style of dance thanks to our scholarship funds from the CHN program. Of the 80% of the income received through our homestay program (20% goes to CHN to cover training and other administrative fees), 20% of that pool goes into a fund that is reinvested back into community initiatives. The fund is used for English and cooking lessons for the mamas, and for other training to help preserve culture and teach women how to run a hospitality business. 

Indulging in a traditional Newari feast put on by the homestay mamas of Panauti. Photo credit: Amir Shresthaa

The impact on the guests

As Shila intricately wrapped me inside a stunning, elaborate saree, preparing me for our last night, the grand finale, an impressive hour-long Newari feast, and dance, my eyes began to fill with tears. The past two days with Shila, her family, and the warm, welcoming mamas of the Panauti Community Homestay were magnificent. Any doubts I had about returning to Nepal and wondering if I could ever be as special to me as it was before, dissipated into the back of my mind.

As Shila braided my hair into a lachha (a Newari hairpiece decoration) all I could do was smile at her with a deep, loving sense of gratitude. The past two days were such a beautiful, unforgettable experience where I truly was able to connect with Nepali culture and life. But what I enjoyed the most, was the connection that me and Shila had made. In only two short days, I no longer felt like a guest but like part of her family, living side by side in her home. What an incredible gift. 

If you go:

Check out all the amazing experiences and available homestays at www.CommunityHomestayNetwork.com. CHN runs homestays in 36 different communities throughout Nepal, with several that are conveniently located in Kathmandu Valley and easily accessible from Kathmandu.