“Dèyè mòn gen mòn” – Haitian proverb meaning “beyond the mountains, more mountains.”
At the heart of rush hour, 4.53 pm, on January 12, 2010 the earth shook with a ferociously and cruelty like never before. In 35 terrifying seconds, a 7.0 magnitude earthquake struck near the town of Léogâne, only 16 miles west of Haiti’s capital, Port-au-Prince flattening hundreds of thousands of buildings, hospitals and clinics, and killing over an estimated 200,000 while injuring and displacing hundreds of thousands more. The catastrophic earthquake and its aftermath was the worst urban disaster in the world with an unimaginable loss of life and destruction of a nation that for hundreds of years has hovered slightly above the brink of collapse.
If the death and destruction of the earthquake was unfathomable, the resulting desperation, suffering and attempts to rebuild the country was even worse revealing just how fragile the social, political and economic systems in Haiti truly are. A cholera outbreak introduced by UN peacekeepers killed thousands more. The lack of social services in rural communities brought even more poor rural migrants into the already overwhelmed Port-au-Prince to live in tents or as squatters. Meanwhile corruption, greed, and a gross mishandling of funds made the rebuilding of Haiti even harder. Billions in promised aid was never delivered. People were displaced and living in horrible conditions in tent communities. And the list goes on.
But slowly over time, Haiti was rebuilt. The rubble was removed, the roads were repaired, and hospitals, clinics, schools, and buildings were reconstructed. Then came Hurricane Mathew this past fall bringing Haiti down to her knees once again. The damage was immense- estimated to be over a billion dollars – and the country is still trying to rebuild once again. Against this backdrop, I went to Haiti.
The sun sets over Port-au-Prince, Haiti.
“Ayiti Nan Kè-m” – Creole meaning “Haiti is in my heart”
I will not sugarcoat it. A week in Haiti was perhaps one of the most intensely emotional travel experiences of my life. However, if you are able to look beyond the potholed roads, the piles of trash, the unforgiving, overbearing poverty and the desperation in people’s eyes, then you will able to see something truly unique. Beauty and hope.
View from our hotel overlooking Cap-Haitien.
Juxtaposed against the stark ugliness is a beautiful resilience and strength in the Haitian people and their land. An extraordinary magical culture of music, art, food and religion. A stunning rural countryside with mountain after mountain- a sea of green against the aqua blue waters and white sandy beaches that make up coastal Haiti. A place that despite its complicated history and immense challenges, offers an outsider something extraordinarily life-changing and unique. A week in Haiti was perhaps one of the most moving trips of my life, and that says a lot given how much I have already seen throughout the developing world.
Mountains beyond mountains. Much of Haiti is covered in mountains.
The mountain fortress of Citadelle Henry is awash with history as it is a place where the struggle for Haitian independence began. Haiti was the first country in the world to be freed by slaves.
Haiti’s coastline is filled with gorgeous beaches like this one pictured below.
Spending the day at the beach is a treat
Although it was my second trip to Haiti, it was during this trip that I experienced the real Haiti. I traveled much more throughout the country than I did on my last visit, having unparalleled access to many aspects of Haitian life that is otherwise unavailable to foreigners. I saw the deplorable and the exceptional, the misery and the resilience, the beauty and the beast. And for that I am eternally grateful.
I traveled to Haiti with my dear friend Haitian-American Nathalie (Nat) Tancrede once again however this time as a tourist. Like most of the world, Natalie was very distraught by the news of the catastrophic earthquake in Haiti and as a Haitian-American she felt compelled to help. Following the earthquake, Nat left her home in New York City and moved to Port-au-Prince to help rebuild the artisan sector which makes up a large percentage of the Haitian economy. With the support of many dedicated partners, she set up a network and provided business and product development training as well as marketing support to over 2,000 local artists and artisans.
During her six years in Haiti, she hosted many international visitors to Haiti including international funders, buyers, designers and bloggers (which is how I first went to Haiti in February 2015) who were always amazed by their experience in Haiti. It was nothing like they had expected given the terrible media Haiti has received. Instead, they found Haiti to be a fascinating destination filled with amazing culture, art and beauty. Of course there remained the “in your face” poverty however if you were willing to open your minds and your hearts to look beyond the ugly, the rewards of visiting Haiti are immense.
I was often regarded with blank stares of disbelief when I told people that I was going to Haiti as a tourist. Given the decades of negative press, people imagine Haiti to be a very dangerous place left in rubble and violence from the earthquake. I must be out of my mind to go to Haiti people whispered quietly behind my back with fear in their eyes. But I am not.
Tourism has the potential to jump start the economy and help rebuild Haiti, providing desperately needed jobs, forcing the government to improve the overall infrastructure of the nation. The government is well aware of the critical importance of tourism and has been promoting it hard over the past few years. A few tour operators have popped up, the first ever guidebook exclusively on Haiti was written, and roads and hotels have slowly been improved. But Haiti has a long way to go until it will be ready to welcome mass tourism like it enjoyed 25 years ago in its golden days. I would also never go to Haiti without a travel guide. This is where my lovely friend Nat comes into play.
Passionate to show the true beauty and magic of Haiti, Nat launched her new travel business “Explore with Nat”. Me and two other guests were her first customers. Nat provided a fully guided week-long trip where we visited three different cities, and embraced the magic of Haiti’s culture, history and people every step of the way. It was truly a fun, eye-opening and unique experience where we received an intimate look at Haiti behind the scenes. We met people from all walks of life and heard their unforgettable stories. We ate at local restaurants as well as some of the most spectacular restaurants in the country. We toured the most historic sites, the most pristine beaches and we also saw the slums. It was by far one of the most eye-opening, moving and life-changing trips I’ve ever had, and there is no other person I’d see Haiti with than Nat.
I have been home for only three days now but my mind is still swirling around trying to process everything I saw and learned. I am certain it will take a lifetime to understand such a complicated place. Yet one thing I can say for sure is that “Ayiti Nan Kè-m” -Haiti is in my heart.
Disclosure: I traveled to Haiti on a partially sponsored trip hosted by Nat. All thoughts and opinions are my own. If you would like to learn more about Nat’s upcoming trips to Haiti, check out her website Explore with Nat. You can also follow her on Facebook and Instagram.
“If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you and make allowance for their doubting too…” Kipling
You DID trust yourself and you DID make allowance for those who doubted your sanity for going to Haiti… Thanks for speaking up for these beautiful people.
If you’ve not read this book, you’ll surely appreciate the story when you have time : https://www.amazon.com/Mountains-Beyond-Quest-Farmer-Would/dp/0812973011
Oh Lisa, your support is so incredible. Thank you. Yes, the people of Haiti are amazing and it is really too bad that the press on the nation is not too great. There is so much culture and pride. I never felt unsafe. And yes I have read and even met Paul Farmer in person. He is an amazing being! More later. I have so many stories to tell. I’ve got to someday get to Ecuador too! 🙂
Even the fact that you have read the book and met Paul Farmer illustrates that you are right on track with your life!
Oh thanks Lisa! I always try to read up on where I’m going and also on the issues at hand.
It’s amazing how some things affect you.
Yes it is. I was and still am so incredibly moved by this trip. It was very powerful.
My son’s future mother-in-law is from Haiti. She just threw a lovely engagement party in order for the two families to meet…in Chicago. I am definitely intrigued by this country and culture. Thanks for sharing this information!
Wow how wonderful!!!! What a beautiful culture to have as part of your family. How special too that you both will get to meet. When is the wedding? Will you write about this on your blog. Thanks so much for sharing. Very special 😌
The wedding date is not set, but fall of 2018 is the target. I’m sure I will blog about it. I did a blog post on the engagement party.
Exciting! I will have to go check out your blog post. Would love to read about the engagement party. 🙂
Just read the post! Wow, she is so beautiful! How exciting and thrilling to meet. Thanks for sharing.
She is beautiful…and tiny! My son is a tad shorter than me, about 5’4″. Dae is about 5’1″. (my oldest daughter is barely 5′ tall)
Wow 5’1. And your daughter is tiny too! Do Dae’s parents still live in Haiti? Despite the hardship it truly is a special place. The people are so amazing and so warm and caring. I felt so welcome there. 😌
No; her mom now lives in Chicago. Her dad is African American, and not Haitian.
Oh thank is nice that they are nearby! 🙂
And both Daena and her mother are artists….very colorful, swirling abstracts seem to be their common theme.
Wonderful! I saw and met lots of artisans on both my trips to Haiti. Their art is amazing.
It sounds amazing Nicole. And somehow reminds me of Cuba, another Caribbean island with a whole whack of trouble. Sometimes it seems it’s just not fair.
Alison
It was quite the trip Alison. Yes in a way like Cuba but the conditions were much more difficult. I would go again to Haiti in a heartbeat though as the people and the culture were so amazing. It was a very powerful trip.
Oh Nicole… I’m writing this between tears… to have the opportunity to connect with and spread some love to those who need it most… just such a rare privilege.
Thank you for such a detailed explanation of the history of the country and I found Nat on Instagram earlier today.
Thank you again. Such a moving post my friend 💕
It was truly a wonderfully moving trip Di. I felt so many emotions on this trip but one thing is the resilience of the people and the kindness they showed us. It is a beautiful culture and country with lots of problems but hopefully someday they will overcome. Thanks dear for reading!
It was my pleasure to read about you and Haiti, Nicole 💕🌹
Oh thanks for your kind words Di!
You know it’s my pleasure dear Nicole 💐💕
😌😌😌
I felt a range of emotions while reading this Nicole from sadness to hope and desire to travel here myself with Nat someday. Thank you for bringing a different view of Haiti to us. The beauty and magic most certainly have come through in your Social Media accounts and then again here. God bless Nat. God bless you Nicole.
Oh Lisa thank you so much! I felt I had to get my emotions out on the first real post before I could move on to all the wonderful stuff I saw and experienced. I am excited to show the beautiful arts and culture that I saw.
Wow, I would love to to do this.
It was amazing Heather. If you come back to the states and want to check out Haiti let me know. Nat is running a few trips a year and there is no one I’d go with besides her. She is amazing and connects you with the people and culture of Haiti. You would learn a lot! 😌
You throw yourself full on at life, Nicole, and I so much admire what you do. It’s tragic that such a lovely place should have the misfortunes it’s had but the culture looks so vibrant. Good luck to Nat, and I look forward to reading more. 🙂 🙂 Hope you’re fully well again.
Yes I do Jo perhaps sometimes a little too much! 😌 this trip was so impactful Jo. I learn and grow with each trip I do. I am so grateful for my chance to see Haiti with Nat.
Several years ago I worked with a man who grew up in Haiti. This was my first experience learning about the immense struggles in this country. Thank you so much for sharing a small part of their story, through your touching words and beautiful images.
I am so glad you enjoyed the post LuAnn. Yes Haiti has sure struggled a lot. I was so grateful to be able to go on this trip and have such a powerful experience.
Hopefully your wonderful descriptions of Haiti (and past posts about the many talented artesans) and the people there will encourage others to open their eyes and visit!
Thanks Marilyn! I hope so too! 😌
What a unique opportunity you had! I am definitely bookmarking Nat’s site for my own future reference.
Yes Lexi, if you want a truly unique experience you should go to Haiti and go with Nat. She is amazing and it was such a powerful trip. Let me know if you are interested in reaching out to her. I know she has two trips coming this fall and one of my wonderful friends is going!
This post really touched me on a deep level Nicole. Such an impoverished country yet so full of hope, beauty and resilience. Once again you’ve brought us the real deal and opened my eyes . Thank you for a wonderful insight into Haiti.
Thank you Miriam. This post was emotionally moving for me to compose and put my thoughts all down. It was such a moving trip. I am really glad that this touched you!
It did. It really did, I can tell your heart and soul went into it.
Thank you Miriam!
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Nicole,
Thank you for sharing this experience on your blog. Haiti is a very special place and it definitely pulls you in once you step foot on that land. Looking forward to sharing this experience with so many others on future trips with @Explore with Nat!
There is no one I’d rather go to Haiti with than you Nat. You are an amazing person and the perfect hostess. 🙂