Jacmel’s amazing papier-mâché

Besides being known as a beautiful, colonial beachside town, Jacmel is one of the leading producers of papier-mâché in all of Haiti. In fact, this dazzling town of about 40,000 residents is famous for its arts and has dozens of studios and shops where papier-mâché is made, sold and celebrated especially during Haiti’s Carnival.

Our team visited Jacmel to see firsthand how papier-mâché is made and to meet some of the different artisans who sell their art to Macy’s Heart of Haiti program and Artisan Business Network (ABN). ABN is the heart and soul of Macy’s Heart of Haiti program (a “trade not aid” initiative that began after the earthquake to help local Haitian artisans sell their products in the United States). Run by Nathalie Tancrede, an amazing Haitian American woman who left her home in New York after the earthquake to help, ABN works with a variety of Haitian artisans to assist with long-term economic development and training on design, marketing, packaging and exporting so they can expand internationally. ABN has made a huge impact on the artisan community of Haiti which was largely hurt after the earthquake. It was amazing to see some of their incredible work and it just so happened that we were in Jacmel a few days before Carnival.

Founded in 1698 by French colonists, Jacmel has the most creative and yet traditional Carnival in Haiti awash with brilliantly colorful papier-maché masks and marionettes, bands à pieds, and street theatre depictions of politics, religion and pop culture. As we entered town, we could see papier-mâché statues and masks everywhere.

Given Jacmel’s vibrant cultural and artistic scene, it wasn’t a surprise to see art being made en plein air right on the streets. It felt like the entire city was alive and was quite invigorating.

Although it was exceptionally hot and humid, our group of bloggers took a stroll along Jacmel’s streets to explore some of the different papier-mâché studios. I must admit, it was amazing. Colorful masks hung from storefronts and lined the dusty sidewalks. Papier-mâché was everywhere!

Given the proximity of Carnival, masks were the most common pieces of papier-mâché on display. You could literally find any kind of mask your heart desired.

Most of the papier-mâché that is sold in the United States and abroad however are papier-mâché vases, platters and other pieces of home decor as shown in the shops below.

The lovely Nat (Nathalie Tancrede) who runs ABN and works with Macy’s Heart of Haiti.

We even visited a few stores that supply products for Macy’s Heart of Haiti line in the United States. Below is a vase that is similar to the ones that are sold by Macy’s (The products change frequently. To view the current Macy’s Heart of Haiti products for sale click here)

Here is a photo of Gerard Dume, a popular papier-mâché artisan, holding up a Heart of Haiti vase.

If only I had an enormous suitcase, I would have bought as much as possible to give away to family and friends back home. I loved it all! The bright colors and the love and dedication placed into each unique piece.

As we were standing inside the shop, a wonderful sweet smell gently lingered in the air. I poked my head outside the front door and there she was, the artisan’s wife cooking up fresh fried plantains along the sidewalk. Of course we had to buy some!

They were delightful!

Our final stop that afternoon was to the studio of an important Heart of Haiti papier-mâché  artisan Pierre Satyr where we would receive a live demonstration on how to make papier-mâché. I could hardly wait!

Stay tuned…

Author’s note: This post is a continuation of my February trip to Haiti as part of a #Bloggers4Haiti trip on behalf of Heart of Haiti. To view all posts in this series, click here

20 thoughts on “Jacmel’s amazing papier-mâché

  1. Neha Jain – Los Angeles – I am an IT (Information Technology) professional with diverse range of interests. Writing and poetry is my passion as is the pursuit for happiness and continuous self improvement...
    Neha Jain on said:

    Very cool article on the art of Papier Mache in Haiti. Loved the pictures! Did you buy any piece? I loved the big faces carrying fruit baskets 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! I only bought some pieces for gifts. I wish I could have bought more!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes it is a beautiful, colorful place despite all the news about Haiti. Thanks!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thank you!

  2. Sue Slaght – Calgary, Alberta Canada – www.traveltalesoflife.com Many years from now, when I am an old lady sitting in the nursing home, I hope to be the twinkly eyed resident still entertaining anyone who I can corner to listen, about all of the wild adventures attempted in a lifetime. Well into the second half of the game of life there is no time like the present to get out there, live big and laugh a lot. Living in Calgary, Alberta, married to my best friend Dave for over thirty years and Mom to adult children; my decades as a nurse have shown that in a moment life can change completely. Passionate about social justice, volunteerism and not letting the phrase “What would people think?” or my own fear get in the way of trying something new; the possibilities are endless. Enjoy the tales and I hope you will be inspired to try something you have been thinking about doing.
    Sue Slaght on said:

    It’s hard to believe that is paper mâché! So beautiful!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes and so incredibly colorful too!

  3. I love working with paper mache. Are the vases paper mache or clay? They look like clay. I love all their work and I would have been just like you — fill the suitcases!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Everything was made out of paper mache even the vases! We saw them being made. I am going to write a post on it!

  4. CarlyStarr – Nomad, moving around – I’m having a bit of trouble figuring out just what it is I want to do with my life, so in the mean time I like to ramble around the world and blog about it. I have a a bit of a knack for finding myself in funny, bizzare and sometimes dodgy situations at home as well as while travelling. People often tell me I should write a book so I have made a blog instead. There are a few nice stories thrown in as well, though everyone knows it’s the disasters and mistakes that make for the best yarns. Besides travelling, stuff I like includes reading, cooking, bushwalking, snorkeling, picnics, and solving the world’s problems over a bottle of red wine.
    carlygolightly on said:

    The first few pics of the paper mache lion looks so cool!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! The lion was as tall as my waist too. Really cool!

  5. Jane Lurie – Hello! Berenice Abbott said, “Photography helps people to see.” It is satisfying when someone looks at one of my images and remarks that they now see something in a new way. I hope that my photographs delight and surprise you.
    Jane Lurie on said:

    Great post- very interesting about papier-mâché. Your images tell a good story.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the post!

  6. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling. In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
    Alison and Don on said:

    Wonderful creativity! I too would have wanted to fill a suitcase!
    Alison

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      The art in Haiti really is unbelievable. so colorful and yes so creative Alison!

  7. restlessjo – Hi! I’m Jo! Johanna when I’m feeling posh, Jan to my Dad, and Joasiu to my Polish family. A bit of a mix-up, that’s me. The one constant, however, is my restless nature. I love to travel and to explore our world. It doesn’t have to be the big wide world. I can be ridiculously happy not too far from home, so long as I’m seeking new horizons. Of course I have a wish list, and it was to help me fulfil my dreams that I started to write travel guides for a venture called Simonseeks. I’d always kept a travel diary, and it was hugely satisfying to share my experiences and to make new friends who shared my passion for travel. Alas, Simonseeks hit a few troubles, but I still find myself writing about my travels. I’ve become addicted. I’d love to share them, and to make more friends. So, it has to be a blog- right? Or do I mean- write?
    restlessjo on said:

    What a lovely happy job to have, Nicole 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Yes indeed Jo! 🙂

  8. ilturistaviaggiatore – 25 anni e 36 Paesi visitati. Ma sogno di visitare tutti gli altri, perché la meta più bella è quella che devo ancora raggiungere. "La vita è un viaggio e viaggiare significa vivere due volte." (Omar Khayyam)
    ilturistaviaggiatore on said:

    It’s very interesting! I didn’t know nothing about this! Thank you for sharing!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Glad you enjoyed! 🙂

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