A visit to Alpage de Ritord: A traditional cheese maker in the Alps

One of the oldest traditions in the region of Savoie is making cheese. Three alpine cheeses are made in this region of the French Alps: Abondance, Beaufort, and Comte. These cheeses evolved over time due to the unique, isolated community of alpine herders who collectively used their dairy supplies during the summer months to make large cheeses that were easy to transport down the valley into the markets.

Since I know nothing about cheese except how much I love to eat it, I thought I’d do a little research on the history of Beafort and how it is made. I found a wonderful website called Cheesemaking.com where I gathered all this information on alpine cheese below:

Alpine cheeses were traditionally made in remote regions of the mountains in eastern France, where large collective herds were moved to the alpage (mountain pastures) in May/June and remained through the middle of September each year. The cheeses needed to be large enough to accommodate the large amount of milk as well as sturdy enough to withstand the rigors of travel to the valley markets. Each region developed it’s own unique style due to herd sizes, remoteness and local preferences.

These cheeses were produced in the primitive mountain chalets where the cows grazed. Sometimes a particular herd would have 2-3 chalets located at different levels on the mountain as the cows moved during the summer and the vats would be moved with the herd. The cheeses were collectively referred to as Gruyere. The Gruyere of old being the assigned person who monitored the grazing activity and assesed the taxes for these Alpage areas. Specific cheeses such as Abondance, Comte, Beaufort, Ementhaler, and Morbier are good examples. The Abondance and Beaufort are the current remaining examples of traditional Alpage production, whereas the others are now produced in Valley cooperatives with the milk being transported.

Beaufort is produced in the Beaufortain, Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, as well as parts of the Val d’Arly valley, all located on 450,000 hectares of the Savoie region.  Our hike through Vanoise National Park took us through the ideal landscape to make wonderful Beaufort the traditional way. Of course a hike through this park wouldn’t be complete without stopping by one such place to see Beaufort made and have a taste for ourselves of perhaps the freshest cheese I’ve ever had.

Leaving our last refuge in the Alps.

First sight of cheese Heaven…

Packs down and time for our tour of course after I take a ton of pictures of all the signage.

Direct sales of fresh cheese….as fresh as you can possibly buy!

A step inside the cheese making room was suprisingly hot, smoky and steamy. I couldn’t imagine working in here all day long making cheese. It is a lot of work and hard manual labor.

The cheese is prepared using 11 liters of milk for every 1 kg of cheese desired. The milk used in one variety comes from the Tarentaise or Abondancecows that graze in the Alps.

To make Beaufort, first, the milk is heated and then cast into a beechwood hoop or mold which gives the cheese its distinctive concave shape. It is pressed for 24 hours, taken out of the hoops and then cooled for another 24 hours. Once cooled, it is soaked in brine and then stored on spruce shelves for one to two months. During this part of the process, one side of the cheese is hand-salted each morning, then turned over and massaged each afternoon. Once the cheese rind has reached a level of maturity, the cheese is smear-ripened with a mixture called morge which produces its strong flavor and pale yellow rind. The prepared cheese must then age for 6–12 months, or even longer, in a cool mountain cellar.

*Source: Cheesemaking.com

Here is a good illustration of the steps from Cheesemaking.com. I found it fascinating! Feel free to check it out if you are interested.

Now back to our tour. We stepped inside to a steamy, smoky room and marveled at the manpower it took to make Beaufort the old-fashioned way without all the modern day processing.

The mixture boiling.

The mixture is poured inside this container and flattened.

A close up look….sorry the picture is a little misty!

After the tour came the best part….the tasting!  I remember during my time living in France the tradition of eating fresh cheese….jelly, salt, and/or plain. It is delicious any way you like!

Mmmmmmmmmmmm……

Our guide Mark inspecting my dad’s broken reading glasses….ha ha….

So Dad, “How was the cheese”?

After too much indulging it was time to go and hike it off. We had three more hours left in our hike and we would be back in civilization. It was a bittersweet feeling as I was excited to have a real bed again but sad to leave my beloved mountains.

Stay tuned…

34 thoughts on “A visit to Alpage de Ritord: A traditional cheese maker in the Alps

  1. Lois – I am a writer living in the west of England; I have written fourrteen novels, my latest being 'Winterdyke' This is the latest of the seven Radwinter genealogical mysteries series, all available on Amazon - the eighth in the series due to appear in early summer. I have written seven other novels, a guide to writing, three stories for reluctant readers and two anthologies with other writers. All are available as eBooks and paperbacks. I hope my blog will engage you with my other interests, music, family history travel, and food... Most of all I hope you engage with my writing and my thoughts on the process... at least, on my process!! You can also find me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram
    Lois on said:

    Wonderful… were your rucksacks full when you set off? Mine would have been! What sort of jelly was it? Great pics too!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      That is true! But it was stuffed to the rim with my belongings! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      you’re welcome! Thanks for stopping by! 🙂

  2. restlessjo – Hi! I’m Jo! Johanna when I’m feeling posh, Jan to my Dad, and Joasiu to my Polish family. A bit of a mix-up, that’s me. The one constant, however, is my restless nature. I love to travel and to explore our world. It doesn’t have to be the big wide world. I can be ridiculously happy not too far from home, so long as I’m seeking new horizons. Of course I have a wish list, and it was to help me fulfil my dreams that I started to write travel guides for a venture called Simonseeks. I’d always kept a travel diary, and it was hugely satisfying to share my experiences and to make new friends who shared my passion for travel. Alas, Simonseeks hit a few troubles, but I still find myself writing about my travels. I’ve become addicted. I’d love to share them, and to make more friends. So, it has to be a blog- right? Or do I mean- write?
    restlessjo on said:

    Cheese- the perfect ending!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Indeed! It was very good too! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks Renee!

  3. નિરવ – Hello , હું છું નિરવ . એક Engineering Graduate . હું રાજકોટ’નો રહેવાસી છું . અને આ બ્લોગ વડે હું તમને Books અને Movies ની મસ્ત સફરે લઇ જાઈશ . . ! એવી સફર કે જે 2000 + મુવીઝ { 2017'ની શરૂઆતે } અને ઘણી બધી બુક્સ પછી પણ ફડાકાભેર આગળ વધી રહી છે . તો જોતા રહેજો નિરવની નજરે . . . અને સાંભળતા રહેજો NiravSays ;) ઇપત્ર સરનામું : નિરવ.વાંચે.છે@જીપુરુષ.કોમ :D - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Hello I am Nirav , an Engineering Graduate . I live at Rajkot { Gujarat } / INDIA { ASIA } / Earth { Solar System } / Orion Arm { MilkyWay Galaxy } / Local Group { Virgo Supercluster } – UNIVERSE :D . . . & through this blog , i would take you all towards the Journey of Mysterious Island of Books & Movies ;) The journey is still going at rocket speed after completing the 2000 + [ at the beginning of 2016 ] movies & lots of books .
    નિરવ ની નજરે . . ! on said:

    Oh . . that broken reading glasses 🙂 , i had too many pairs of broken glasses ! i know how it felt when your second eyes get broken . . . 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      It sure was delicious too!

  4. adinparadise – I enjoy writing about anything and everything. It keeps me out of mischief. I love to travel and am fortunate enough to be able to do so quite frequently.
    adinparadise on said:

    That cheese looks and sounds delicious, Nicole. Fascinating to see how it’s made.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      It was even better to eat! 🙂

  5. I had some Yunnan goat cheese last night – different taste, same appreciation!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      That sounds really good! I remember cheese a hard find while I was in China but then again I probably wasn’t looking hard enough.

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Cool! It was really interesting to see and even better to eat! 🙂

  6. Eliz@MirthandMotivation – Growing up on three continents has exposed me to people/places that are culturally rich and varied. My interests in learning, teaching and traveling continue to inform my work as a training specialist. My family, friends, faith and colleagues have been instrumental in my growth; therefore, as I learn, develop and share new skills, I remember with gratitude, how important it is support others.
    eof737 on said:

    I love the pictures; they are so interesting and the the cheese are delicious looking. Yum! 😉

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Thanks! It was very good! 🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      Hmmmm…..I got that off a cheese making website so they must have been wrong. But good to know! I haven’t been to the Jura dept but must check it out! 🙂

      • I guess it could be made in Savoie but it wouldn’t be an AOP (appelation d’origine protégée), so basically it would be a “fake” comté, hah! I actually just wrote a post about that today.

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Interesting! I will check it out!

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Really really cool blog! Wish I would have known about it earlier as I’m a big hiker and skier! Just subscribed too. I will have to check it out when I have more time and practice my french too as I see it is in both languages! 🙂

      • Thank you! I’ll be taking tips from your blog too, looks like you’ve traveled the whole world.
        Hiking is fun, but I cannot wait for the ski season to start!

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        🙂

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      The bed was delightful!

  7. Pingback: Fresella cheese

  8. Miriam – Zurich – I am a traveller. Not in the fast sense. I am travelling on foot, as a pilgrim. And I love writing and playing music. Since I found back to singing and writing while walking the Way of St. James in Spain, I started mingling the two. Means I am walking with my little guitalele and playing whenever the situation seems right for it :-)
    Miya Autumn on said:

    Oh, I love life on Alps. Your post is bringing back memories, as I once worked on an Alp for 5 weeks about 11 years back. But we didn’t make cheese. I just milked the goats every morning, helped the farmers making the fences and herded the cattle. It was a great experience!

    • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
      thirdeyemom on said:

      That sounds idyllic! Wow, I can only imagine!

      • Miriam – Zurich – I am a traveller. Not in the fast sense. I am travelling on foot, as a pilgrim. And I love writing and playing music. Since I found back to singing and writing while walking the Way of St. James in Spain, I started mingling the two. Means I am walking with my little guitalele and playing whenever the situation seems right for it :-)
        Miya Autumn on said:

        Oh it was. But it was hard in the beginning. The 3rd day I didn’t manage to get up, as I hadn’t been used to hard physical labour. Even breathing hurt. Afterwards, it was absolutely great.

      • thirdeyemom – Writer, traveler, hiker and global humanitarian traveling the world and doing good. Member of Impact Travel Alliance Media Network. 40+ countries and still wandering sharing my journey along the way.
        thirdeyemom on said:

        Wow. I bet the cheese was delicious though!

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