At the southern tip of mainland Iceland, only a few short hours drive from Reykjavik, we reach our destination:  The lovely, quaint coastal village of Vik.  The sparsely populated town (there are roughly 350 hearty souls who live there) is a beautiful place surrounded by long black sand beaches, lush green mountains, sharp sea cliffs and the trademark which this place is most known for:  Reynisdrangar, a row of pointed basalt sea stacks that legend holds were created by trolls who turned to stone at sunrise.

We planned to make a short stop in Vik to do a well-known hike along the Reynisfjall cliffs, known as one of the most spectacular short hikes in southern Iceland.  We were looking forward to getting out of the car and stretching our legs.  A hike would be the perfect way to experience the beauty of this unearthly land.

As we pull into Vik, the surroundings were mystical.  We could feel the magical effects of Icelandic folklore run through our veins:


As we descended into town, we got our first glimpse of the gorgeous black sand beaches which stretch as far as the eye can see.

There is not much at all to the town except a few houses, perhaps one or two small hotels and a couple of restaurants.

It is as isolated as we have been so far in Iceland.  Really in the middle of nowhere.  I wondered what it would be like to live somewhere like Vik.

The countryside is so lush and green.  The Icelandic horses are in their element and have plenty to eat.

The start of the hike was a bit steep.  We couldn’t find the trailhead so we had to improvise by going straight up, using our hands and fingers for support.

We pass a few horses close up but they don’t even seem to even notice our presence.

Finally, we found the trail.  You can actually drive your car up here as well but in my book, that is cheating.  The best way to reach a spectacular view is by foot!

On a sunny day, you are able to see glaciers off in the distance.  All we saw were the green foothills of the mountains since the peaks were blanketed in clouds.

The trademark of Vik, Reynisdrangar, a row of spiky basalt sea stacks which have long been used as a landmark and navigational point for sailors.  The stalks raise up to 217 feet/66m into the air and local lore believes that they were formed when two trolls were unable to find land and turned into stone at sunrise.

Iceland is famous for its puffins and is fortunate to claim ownership of breeding over half the world’s population of Atlantic Puffin’s in her lush, fertile lands.  The total population of puffins in Iceland has been estimated between 8 and 10 million birds.  That’s a lot of puffins!

Puffins are both beautiful and fun to watch…unless of course, you are getting attacked!  Unbeknownst to us, the lovely cliffs we were hiking on were also the mating and nesting area for these fine, lovely birds.  Nothing in the guidebook told us that one of southeast Iceland’s most beloved, worthy hikes was going through the nesting grounds!  I felt terrible!  But what was worse was the actual attack of the birds!

We had reached the top of the hike, a plateau, which afforded a splendid view of the ocean.  As we were taking in the awesome scenery, all of the sudden, out of nowhere a bird began swarming and scooping down at us at ungodly close levels.  I thought perhaps it was a bird gone mad.  But then another came, and another and soon we had to make a run for it, covering our heads.  It was actually a little awful.  Of course we didn’t want to hurt their nests (nor did we want to lose our heads!)  So we ran swiftly and as quickly as would could off the plateau, and headed back down towards our car, feeling a little bit shaken up by the whole experience.  An attack by puffins was not at all what I had expected.  But then again, nothing ever seems to go as planned when you are traveling in another country.

This picture below is right before the surprise attack!  Little did I know what was awaiting!

The stunning view at the top of the hike was worth it.

Happy to be down, away from the flying attacks!


Views like this are priceless.  To see such beauty in the world, lifts my spirits with joy. 


We ended our hike within two hours, climbed back in the car and set off for our next adventure.  I was looking forward to the remainder of the drive through southern Iceland.  I was fully aware that we would soon be hitting glacier after glacier and seeing some of the most inspiring beauty in all of Iceland.  I could hardly wait!


Stay tuned….next post will cover the glacier-filled drive to Skaftafell National Park and a stop at the iceberg-filled aquamarine lake, Jokulsarlon, probably one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been in my life!


  1. What a beautiful area. Glad to hear you survived the puffin attack – I can only imagine how crazy that would be!

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