Granada is one of those showcase cities whose eternal beauty lies deep within her Spanish colonial roots. Founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, much of the city remains the same as it was hundreds of years ago when the Spanish landed in Granada and conquered the people and their land. Despite being ransacked, destroyed and burnt to the ground, Granada has remained shockingly intact with its glorious cobblestone streets, opulent Catholic churches and vibrantly colored architecture, making it one of the most beautiful cities in Central America.
Catholicism arrived in Nicaragua in the late 16th century during the Spanish conquest of Latin America. To build their empire, the Spanish constructed grand, elaborate cathedrals throughout the region and Granada received her fair share of beautiful churches. Today roughly 90% of Nicaraguans practice some form of Christian denomination with the majority being Roman Catholics.
The sound of church bells is a constant reminder that you are in a Catholic country where religion still plays an integral role in people’s lives.
There are five main churches that grace Granada’s picturesque streets: The Iglesia la Merced, the Cathedral on Parque Colón, The Iglesia de Xalteva, the Igelesia Guadalupe and the Antiguo Convento San Francisco. All are worth checking out as they are equally beautiful in their own right.
Iglesia la Merced
Built in 1534 (sacked and burned and rebuilt again in 1670), the views from the bell tower are the most spectacular in the entire city. High on top, you are rewarded with a 360 degree view of Granada’s terra-cotta rooftops, the stunning lake and the volcano.
Climbing the narrow stairs, you reach the centerpiece of the church: The bell tower. The panoramic views from high above the busy streets of Granada, are sensational and perhaps my favorite view in all Granada.
I could have stayed her all afternoon watching the world go by on the streets below but alas I had four more churches to see and it was getting hot.
Here is a beautiful view of the Cathedral on the central plaza, the heart and soul of Granada. You can also see the lake, Lago Cocibolca and Las Isletas where I would go for a sunset cruise later on that day.
The outside of the Iglesia la Merced shows its wear and tear yet the inside remains pristine.
Looking up at the entrance to the church.
Given the heat of midday and the lunch time was rapidly approaching, I decided to visit the Cathedral on the Parque Colón, (Central Plaza) next before the bell tower closed for the day. It was sweltering hot with not a wisp of wind. I was melting in sweat but was too inspired by the beauty of Granada to let a minor discomfort stop me from exploring the city.
The Cathedral:
Arguably the most prominent landmark in Granada, the brilliant yellow neoclassical Cathedral dominates the Parque Colón,and can be seen soaring proudly against the deep blue sky throughout most of the city. Built in 1583 and destroyed in the 19th century, this glorious cathedral was rebuilt again in the early 20th century and has stood proud ever since.
The interior of the church has three naves and four chapels, and is decorated with extensive stained glass windows.
Once again, I paid a dollar to climb up the bell tower and take in the views. Just like at the Iglesia la Merced, signs in english were everywhere saying “Please do not ring the bell!”. While I was up there taking photos, the bell was rung and it chimes could be heard throughout Granada.
The church bells should have warned me that it was time to head back for lunch and take a break. But I kept going and soon realized I was one of the few people crazy enough to be out there in the prime heat of the day, walking around. But I only had a few more hours of daylight left in Granada, so I had to endure the heat and press ahead to the next church.
Iglesia de Xalteva
This lovely church once again has a history of being built, destroyed and rebuilt. It was first built during the colonial period and had to be rebuilt between 1895 and 1898 after a major earthquake struck Granada. All restoration work was not completed finished until 1921.
I found this church rather by accident as it was not in my guide book and I just saw its beautiful looming tower poking up in the sky. I think by far it was my favorite one.
Iglesia Guadalupe
Iglesia Guadalupe was built during the 17th century yet is sadly in a state of disrepair. Its faded and crumbling exterior give us a sense at its rough history. It was used as a fortress in 1856 by American William Walker who attempted to take over Nicaragua by naming himself president. He razed the entire city of Granada and destroyed much in his path. Walker was executed by firing squad in 1856 and it began a long history of U.S. intervention in Nicaragua that is not pretty.
Antiguo Convento San Francisco
The last church that I saw was the Antiguo Convento San Franciscan. Built by Franciscan monks in 1529, this church too was burned to the ground and had to be reconstructed. I didn’t go inside the church but my guide book said that its courtyards hosts a wealth of priceless artwork that is wonderful to see.
If I hadn’t been so hot and tired, I would have certainly explored more of the Antiquo Convento San Francisco but a dip in the pool, a cold beer and a lukewarm shower were awaiting. It wouldn’t be much longer before I set off on my next adventure for the day: A sunset cruise of Las Isletas. I could hardly wait!
Like it? Why not PIN for later?
Not only are these churches beautiful, they have views! :[)
janet
Yes Janet the views were lovely (even though it was about 94 degrees! Really hot for a Minnesota girl!).
🙂
What a stunning array of churches. You’re quite right that many look dilapidated on the outside yet you can still see the grandeur that was once there. Sounds like the heat eventually wore you out Nicole, but you did a fantastic effort of exploring these churches. Lovely post.
Thanks Miriam! Yes I wore myself out due to the outrageous heat! It was about 94 F that day and not an ounce of a breeze. But it was fun!
I’m hoping to go towards the later part of this year- this post has just whet my appetite!
Oh that would be lovely! You should check out Debbie’s blog “Rewind and Retired in Nicaragua!”. I got to meet her and her husband in San Juan del Sur. They live on Ometepe Island. I loved Nicaragua!
I love the one with the worker sleeping. 🙂
Thanks! I felt so silly snapping it like I was spying on him but given the high heat of midday I would have loved to nap there too!
Enjoyed this post as colonial history and architecture is of my ‘interest. I feel that architecture of that period is so amazing unlike today. there was so much character and uniqueness to suit local requirement and climate. Currently architecture everywhere is same -no uniqueness!
Thank you! Yes, given your blog I can see how you too enjoy architecture!
Yes, I do. 🙂
Wow! Once again an amazing collection of photos. I am sharing this with the expats of Granada, Nicole. They loved your other post about Granada.
Yay thank you Debbie! 🙂
You saw more churches in a day than I saw in almost a week! Well, I did see all of them from the outside, but the only one I went up in was La Merced for that spectacular view of the city. I also stopped into the yellow cathedral but didn’t even know there was a bell tower to climb! Such a pretty little city!
I was on a mission that afternoon! I only had half a day to cram it all in! I even did the sunset tour that same night and then Mombacho volcano the next day. It was exhausting but glad I got to see so much.
Stunning photos Nicole but perhaps my fave is the sleeping worker. One just can’t help but smile.
Thanks Sue! Another reader mentioned that photo as a favorite too! I felt so sneaky taking it!
Gorgeous day and absolutely amazing photos. Do you ever thought about selling you pics on Shutterstock?
Thanks so much! No I actually haven’t. Do you sell yours?
It’s interesting how different the style of these churches is from those in Oaxaca. I haven’t seen one with those tall “false fronts.” I wonder who designed all the colonial era churches. Beautiful post.
Thanks Marilyn! I have never been to Oaxaca but would love to explore more of Mexico. I tried to look into more information on Granada but it was limiting. I wish I would have had a tour guide as that would have helped gather more facts like who designed them all.
Nicole, in your last comment you wanted a tour guide to help you gather more facts about the architecture of Granada. There is a group that takes people on home tours in Granada. The proceeds help to fund the children’s libraries in Granada. I wish I would have known. I would have directed you to the right people to help you gather more facts. However, you did a sensational job with the history of Granada and the photos of the churches are spectacular. I’ve shared it with the Facebook group expats of Granada.
Thank you Debbie! I think it would be fantastic to get more of the historical information.