I woke up well-rested and at ease at Shira Camp. I had slept better since I’d finally figured out the secret key to staying warm at night: Hot water-filled Nalgene bottles at the bottom of my sleeping bag. Our American guide, Chaney, told me to fill them up right before bed with the boiling hot water that we use for our evening tea. I arranged one bottle at the foot of each leg and voila, it worked like a charm! Chaney also instructed me to dress in breathable layers. I slept in my long underwear, hiking pants, wool socks, long sleeve DryFit t-shirt, top layer DryFit pullover, Spyder over-layer, fleece jacket and wool hat. I scrapped the additional Gortex jacket that I wore for dinner and left it next to me for that awful time at night I had to climb out of my warm sleeping bag and find the toilet tent.
Although it sounds like an awful lot of clothing to sleep in, it was just right. It gets pretty darn cold on the mountain and the higher you climb, the colder it gets. Being warm at night was critical. Otherwise you were in for a long, brutal, uncomfortable night.
Sunset at Shira Camp. 12,600 feet/3,840 m
Our hike today would be one of the longest ones of the climb except for the summit day. Beginning at Shira Camp (12,600 feet/3,840 m), we would head east up past the end of the vegetation for five hours up to Lava Tower at 15,190 feet (4,629 m) where we would have a hot lunch and break. Next we would descend back down to Barranco Camp at 12,960 feet (3,950 m) where we would spend the night at a lower elevation. The main purpose of the hike was acclimatization (it is highly recommended to go up and sleep lower to get your body used to higher altitudes).
Morning at Shira Camp
Taking down the camp
The joy of each morning for me was the freshly brewed Tanzanian coffee that our guide Chaney brought. He made a fresh pot each morning in his French press and waiting the six or seven minutes to brew was torture. It was much better than the instant coffee! I also enjoyed the eggs, hot chapati bread and fruit. Loading up on calories was critical to ensuring you had enough energy to make it to your next meal.
We set off around 8 am to yet another gorgeous sunny day. We had lucked out tremendously with the weather as it was beautiful every single day of the hike, did not rain, and was relatively warm. Just a week before us they had to almost cancel the summit attempt due to high wind and bitter cold (rumors were it was 20 below zero F on top!). Little did we realize how lucky we would be!
A porter making a last minute call
As we headed out on our climb, the landscape began to dramatically change from rainforest and moorland to dark black rock. It was a fascinating hike! If we stopped to look on the ground, we could see pieces of obsidian (black volcanic glass) and I put a small piece of it inside my pocket to bring back to my daughter as a souvenir.
Leaving Shira Camp
Goodbye vegetation
The geological origin of Kilimanjaro dates back to the formation of the great Rift Valley over a million and a half years ago. Kilimanjaro’s volcanic activity originated in three main volcanic cones: Kibo (the highest), Shira and Mawenzi. Uhuru Peak is the highest summit on Kibo’s crater rim. While Shira and Mawenzi are extinct, Kibo lies dormant and could erupt again someday. (Good thing I didn’t know that before I climbed!).
Hiking up to Lava Tower, I was reminded of Kilimanjaro’s eruptive past. The views were stunning and it felt a little like being on the moon. There was no vegetation in site and lots and lots of rocks to maneuver around. Here are some photos in a gallery from the climb (Click on a picture to view enlarged):
We arrived at Lava Tower, a whopping 15,190 feet (3950 m) a little past 2 pm, famished and exhilarated at the magnificent site before us. Lava Tower was formed by lava thousands of years ago when Kilimanjaro was an active volcano. Its sharp peak stands alone and jets up about 300 feet into the sky making it an interesting climb for those inclined to do more. I chose lunch and saving my knees over climbing up Lava Tower!
Lava Tower
Our packs wait outside our dining tent while we eagerly devour our food.
There is nothing like a freshly cooked, hot meal after a strenuous hike. I devoured my vegetable curry and home-made chapati bread. We still had a few more hours hike to Barranco Camp where we would be spending the night. I didn’t want to go hungry.
Stay tuned…Hike to Barranco Camp coming up next! Get ready for some of the most amazing vegetation you’ve ever seen! High Alpine desert.
I’be said Wow! Before, and I’ll say it again! What a great experience….
Thanks Sue! 🙂
I have been considering climbing Mt. Kilamanjaro and this only inspired me! Thanks 🙂
GO for it! Climbing Kili is an amazing, unforgettable experience! I hope to someday do it with my kids. 🙂
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Loving these step by step tales of your climb. You got some beautiful photos.
Alison
Thanks Alison! The next set are pretty cool too!
Nicole, what an adventure! Glad to be enjoying it from my chair, I must admit. 🙂
janet
Ha Ha, love that Janet! Nothing better than armchair traveling right?! 🙂
How cold was it these nights on the way up? I have always been so toasty warm in my sleeping bag, even high in the mountains. Getting in and out of the bag was not so fun, but I’m surprised at how cold you were during the night. I was coldest after I lost my appetite at higher altitudes and I wasn’t getting enough calories to keep me warm. I’m vicariously enjoying your climb! 🙂
I’m not sure but it was the same for me in Bolivia when we were at 15,000 feet. I think it had to be in the teens but again I can’t be certain. All I know is I live in MN through the winter but sleeping in cold conditions is hard. Even at dinner in the dining tent at night we were quite cold. So that is just my guess.
just found your blog and I’ll be following your progress. I’ve lived on Tanzania for the past year and plan to climb Kili with a coworker in October. Any suggestions for preparing?
Thanks! I actually did the climb in July and am now writing about it. AS for preparing, it really depends on how in shape/fit you are. I am a regular runner, biker and walker. TO prepare, I just added more miles to my routine. I would make sure you have done some good 4-5 hour hikes before you do the climb and just be relatively fit and you will do great! Any more questions please let me know. I’m happy to help! It is an amazing experience!
That was a very good day indeed. Lava Tower is so imposing, and has lots of faces that I can see. 🙂
Thanks Sylvia! Don’t you love how “a good day” for me always involves hiking?!
I had noticed. 😉
What degree sleeping bag did you have? Really hope I have the same luck as you with the warmer weather! Looking forward to those beautiful views!
My bag was about 10-15 Degree F but I still was cold. The ones the rest of my group rented were very bulky so I never could have brought it from home to Tanzania. However, since they rented them there through the tour company they were able to be very warm.
I am bringing my 0 degree, it is bulky but I love it. Debating shipping a box of donations over ahead of time as I don’t know how I’m going to fit everything in my luggage!:)
That sounds like a good one. Mine is a cocoon so it was pretty compact. I have a Delta Airlines credit card so I got to bring two pieces of luggage for free! Otherwise yes it can get hard to get all the stuff there. Big tip is to pack light. You seriously wear the same clothing over and over again. 3 t-shirts, 2 warmer layering shirts, 3 pants, 3 wool socks and all the rest. 🙂
Quite an ascent. I especially love the first image w/ the sunset, heading up with Kilimanjaro in the background, and the Lava Tower shots. Looking forward to more!
Thanks Lisa! 🙂 It was beautiful! more coming soon!
Such a good read Nicole; enjoying every moment vicariously 🙂
Thanks Andrew!
Wow! I’m so impressed by your experiences.
Why thank you Irene!!! It was wonderful!
I so want to do this climb. Terry is not buying it yet. 🙁
You can convince him LuAnn! 🙂 I know you can! 🙂
Such amazing photos! And it must have been amazing to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. It’s one I really want to do myself one day. 🙂
Thank you! It was amazing! Really the views of the clouds were so incredible. Yes, you should do it! 🙂
Wow just amazing pictures! I can imagine how hard it was to climb so far… You should be proud of yourself 🙂
Now I am encouraged to find where I could sleep and wake up above the clouds!
Thank you! It was quite the adventure! Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks LuAnn!