Rising up from the Pacific coast, the Andes mountain range is the longest and the youngest mountain range on the planet. After the Himalayas, it is the second highest range and is still growing. The Condoriri Valley lies within the 100 kilometer-long Cordillera Real mountain range northeast of La Paz, that separates the lowlands of the Amazon River basin to the east from the high plateaus of the Altiplano (highlands) to the west. The Cordillera Real is the most accessible and spectacular mountain range in the entire country and I could hardly wait to experience it on foot.
Our first big climb in Condoriri Valley was to Mount Jaillaico at 16,899 feet (5,152 m). Known as the “Mirador”, our trekking guide called it a relatively “easy” trekking peak that can be reached through grassy hills, glacial moraines and rocky slopes with no technical ability. Basically it is a warm-up climb for those serious mountaineers who are hoping to climb some of the bigger beasts in the area like the mighty Huayna Potosí (at 19,974 feet/6,088 m) or Illimani the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real at 21,122 feet/6,438 meters.
I wasn’t sure what Javier meant by “easy” but starting out from our base camp at 15,500 feet on only a few hours of restless sleep did not make this a walk in the park. In fact, the first hour into our trek I wasn’t exactly sure that I would be able to make it, I felt so light-headed and fatigued. Every step was an effort and I felt out of breath. But thankfully, as I focused more and more on my breathing I felt better.
We passed Chiar Kota, the black lake, which is known for its delicious trout. In the summertime it is a popular place to fish and the colors of the lake were amazing as the day passed turning from black, to gray, to aquamarine and blue.
Javier was a chatty guide telling us a lot about the history and culture of Bolivia. I didn’t have my notebook with me but took mental notes of all the fascinating facts he told us. Like most developing nations, Bolivia has experienced a huge migration of people from the countryside to the cities. Fifty years ago most people lived in rural areas yet today almost 70% of the population lives in urban areas, causing a lot of problems with unemployment, crime, and over-crowding. It is hard for rural farmers and shepherds to keep their children in the countryside as many leave in search for a better life in the city. Sadly, this is not always the case.
Me and my dad
“Life is a song – sing it. Life is a game – play it. Life is a challenge – meet it. Life is a dream – realize it. Life is a sacrifice – offer it. Life is love – enjoy it.” – Sai Baba
We were so thankful for the beautiful blue sky. The clouds and rain from the night before had miraculously cleared affording breathtaking views the entire way.
After leaving the lake, we begin our ascent up. The terrain was slippery and we had to dig the toes of our boots into the moraine in order to not slide back down. It wasn’t particularly hard yet the air was thinning with each and every step.
Up close view of the slippery terrain.
Since we were above the tree line, the terrain was relatively sparse. Given the altitude each step was up was at a snail’s pace. Step, dig, breathe. Stop. Step, dig, breathe. I dug my toes into the ground as hard as I could as one wrong move would send me spiraling down.
The higher we climbed, the more incredible the views became. Sometimes I find it hard to believe that places as magical as this exist.
We could see Lake Titicaca off in the horizon. We wouldn’t have time to visit it on this trip but it gives me a reason to come back. It is supposedly incredible. Obviously I couldn’t stop taking pictures along the way nor could I leave many of the photos out of the post. The views were too beautiful to ignore.
“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open”.– Jawaharlal Nehru
After a few hours, it was finally time to get up to the top. All we had to do was climb up over a little group of rocks and we were there. I got up first with the help of Javier below. Next came my dad and I caught it all on film to my mother’s dismay. (It really wasn’t as insane as it looks!).
Easy does it.
(Sorry Dad, but I couldn’t resist all these shots!)
By eleven o’clock we reached 16,899 feet. We made it. There was no better place for a picnic lunch than this spot.
Believe it or not, getting down was harder. The slippery terrain meant you had to sink your feet into the rock, slide and then sit on your bottom to stop yourself. It was of course easier to breathe but it was hard on the knees and quads.
Example of the terrain – no fun
But once again, the views of our surroundings were surreal. What a place!
Sliding down the terrain…
And we made it!
The black lake was now green.
I was going to sleep like a baby that night.
Like it? Why not PIN for later?
Beautiful photos! Down is always harder to me, I love winter butt sliding in New England. Looks like sledding down Jaillaico would be a little too dangerous:)
roarloud.net
Thanks so much! It can be a little bit dangerous but as long as you lean back and fall on your bottom you are ok. 🙂
Incredible photos!
Thank you!
How exhilarating! The sky is like what I’d see from an airplane, it seems! So far up….
Yes it was quite surreal up there! 🙂 A magical place!
Spectacular views! Great climbing photos, Nicole.
Thanks Amy! 🙂
What an accomplishment Nicole. Such gorgeous photos and so great to be with your Dad!
Thanks Sue! Yes it was one of the harder hikes I’ve done purely because of the altitude. But so wonderful to do with my dad!!!
Rut!
🙂
Beautiful.
Thanks so much!
Magical place, indeed! I breathed rapidly with every step of your story. Your poor mother! Seeing those pictures of your dad ascending to the peak makes my knees tingle. What a trek!
He He…my mom was not too pleased! But it was really only one minute that was dangerous, getting over that ledge. But the rest was incredibly serene!
Looks like a great adventure! I always think I’m going to be so relieved going back down, but then the knee- and quad-burning begin, as you said! Which do you like better most of the time? I’ve always been in the minority up to now because I preferred going down. As I get older, I’m pretty sure I’ll be happy to pant on the way up if I can just not pound the knees going down! (I also think going up is less frightening on a steep or slippery slope, don’t you?) Anyway, congrats on the peak to you and your dad!
I prefer to go up too as it hurts my knees so much as well. But breathing is easier. I am heading to AZ next week for a family break and look forward to getting some warmer weather and some hikes in!
Thank you for taking me on this wonderful journey. Gorgeous terrain, gorgeous photographs!
Alison
You’re welcome Alison! So glad you enjoyed!
I will just have to content myself with your beautiful photos. There is no way I would attempt this climb.
He He…your honesty always makes me smile Debra! Yes, I’m slightly crazy but I think my dad gave it to me. And he is 72! 🙂
Sounds like one hell of a climb, but how worth it looking at those photos…. gorgeous!
Thanks so much Jess! 🙂
Amazing! Again! Did you use a company for this trek? Any recommendations? This is the stuff of my dreams!
Thanks so much! Yes, we used Andean Summits and I highly recommend them. Excellent.
Cheers, will write their name down in my “future travels” diary! Hope to get to bolivia the next time we visit relatives in Peru.
Some of the photos are almost otherworldly, Nicole! If I ever got up there I really don’t know how I’d get down. Good job I’ve got you to do it for me. 🙂 Love that first photo of you and Dad. So wonderful to be able to do this together after all you’ve been through.
Thanks Jo! The photos did turn out well but the place was way more beautiful than my ability to capture it! Wow. Thanks so much. It was really a special trip! 🙂
All I can say Nicole is WOWEE WOW. Love the photos of you and your day but the majestic moutains. WOW!
Thanks Ruth! 🙂
That was supposed to be DAD not Day sorry.
No worries! It was a great “day” too! With my dad!
I know I couldn’t handle this because of the elevation so thank you for taking me along with you. So glad you got to experience this with your dad. 🙂
Thanks LuAnn! It was a wonderful time!
Hi,
if you do not mind, I would like to ask how did you organize the guide for this hike/climb? We plan to go to Condoriri area and would like to hike Jaillaico and Austria. It would be good to have a guide.
Thank you very much
Helena
Hi there! We went with Andean Summits. Just google them and their website will pop up. They are excellent and very good mountaineers. There are other companies but I really liked this one. Good luck!